1-2 code
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 263
Likes: 7
From: Upper midwest
1-2 code
Truck won't start. It is flashing a 1 - 2 code. (1994 f-150 5.8 4x4)
I read up on it and one person suggested the butterfly valves may be sticky. I took the intake hoses off and made sure they opened. Also tried starter fluid.
Battery is new with 100 extra cca. Voltage reads about 10 volts, but it always reads that unless it is running or otherwise getting a charge. Typically starts up when it reads 10 volts.
It has been slow to start of late. It just takes extra cranking time. Usually starts and runs w/o much issue. I recently replaced that TPM/ICM (I think that's what it is called). It is the module that is often mounted to the distributor. That seemed to make no difference.
Any ideas? BTW we hit around -20°F lastnight. It was driven about 12 hours ago.
I read up on it and one person suggested the butterfly valves may be sticky. I took the intake hoses off and made sure they opened. Also tried starter fluid.
Battery is new with 100 extra cca. Voltage reads about 10 volts, but it always reads that unless it is running or otherwise getting a charge. Typically starts up when it reads 10 volts.
It has been slow to start of late. It just takes extra cranking time. Usually starts and runs w/o much issue. I recently replaced that TPM/ICM (I think that's what it is called). It is the module that is often mounted to the distributor. That seemed to make no difference.
Any ideas? BTW we hit around -20°F lastnight. It was driven about 12 hours ago.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 735
Likes: 8
From: NC
10 volts is too low. Your battery may be shot. RESTING voltage ( after sitting for an hour or over night) on a good battery should be around 12.6 volts or so. With it being colder your battery has to work harder to provide the power to crank and fire. Put it on a charger. Then start the truck if it will fire.
Each cell in a battery is supposed to provide about 2.1 volts, it appears you may have a dead cell if it is only reading 10 volts at rest
Each cell in a battery is supposed to provide about 2.1 volts, it appears you may have a dead cell if it is only reading 10 volts at rest
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 263
Likes: 7
From: Upper midwest
battery
The battery is a few months old. Once the truck is running. I'll swing by oreillys and have them test it.
Charged it up earlier. Even with 200 amp assist. It turned over, but would not fire. I took video of the gauges when we did that. The microphone should catch the engine sound.
Will upload it shortly.
Charged it up earlier. Even with 200 amp assist. It turned over, but would not fire. I took video of the gauges when we did that. The microphone should catch the engine sound.
Will upload it shortly.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 735
Likes: 8
From: NC
Check you connections,make sure they are tight,not corroded,etc definitely something not right. a depleted battery will freeze and warp the plates a lot easier than a fully charged battery will. With brutal temps like that even a trickle charger on a brand new battery isn't a bad idea as far as keeping the battery fully charged and a little warmer.
Check your cables for internal corrosion also. If the insulation on the cables has let in moisture it can cause corrosion and high resistance.
Check your cables for internal corrosion also. If the insulation on the cables has let in moisture it can cause corrosion and high resistance.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 263
Likes: 7
From: Upper midwest
funny
Funny you should talk about corrosion. This was a well maintained truck. Except for rust / corrosion. It has plenty of that. Before this cold snap. We were in the process of replacing the battery cables. But couldn't fet them in before the blizzard.
There is a trickle charger on it.
Thank you again.
There is a trickle charger on it.
Thank you again.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 735
Likes: 8
From: NC
No worries on the trying to help. I am trying to think from an electricians point of view (am an industrial/commercial electrician) I usually slather my battery connections with No-OX and use electrical cleaner liberally on everything before coating it with that gawd awful but effective stuff.
You can get battery connection cleaner and sealer at most parts stores but I use what we use in the field. In a pinch some baking soda/water scrubbed with a tooth brush, rinsed and dried and then coat things with vaseline will work.
You can get battery connection cleaner and sealer at most parts stores but I use what we use in the field. In a pinch some baking soda/water scrubbed with a tooth brush, rinsed and dried and then coat things with vaseline will work.
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 263
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From: Upper midwest
the link
https://youtu.be/-CvwSkf-MU8
As for the electrician pov. I get that. Your stuff needs to hold up under rough conditions. We all bring a unique point if view to this troubleshooting. Never know where the answer will appear.
As for the electrician pov. I get that. Your stuff needs to hold up under rough conditions. We all bring a unique point if view to this troubleshooting. Never know where the answer will appear.
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From: Mexico, Missouri
When you say the battery shows 10 volts, are you looking at it from the view of the dash gauge?
A true reading is done with a Anolog or Digital multimeter on the posts themselves.
At 10 volts, I wouldn't believe it will ever crank over.
A true reading is done with a Anolog or Digital multimeter on the posts themselves.
At 10 volts, I wouldn't believe it will ever crank over.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 263
Likes: 7
From: Upper midwest
dash
You're likely right.
That's the rough reading from the dash. No metering atm. Too cold. Hitting a temp of -30°F & Windchill of -50°F. Afraid metering will have to wait.
It picked a great time to take a dump. :|
That's the rough reading from the dash. No metering atm. Too cold. Hitting a temp of -30°F & Windchill of -50°F. Afraid metering will have to wait.
It picked a great time to take a dump. :|
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 263
Likes: 7
From: Upper midwest
...
Battery is good. I'll ignore the dash reading. That's not worth much apparently. I may also have been misreading it.
New components in the past few months;
PIP/Hall
TPM/ICM
Coil wire.
Distributor cap & rotor.
Battery.
New components in the past few months;
PIP/Hall
TPM/ICM
Coil wire.
Distributor cap & rotor.
Battery.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 735
Likes: 8
From: NC
If there is no spark, I would find out why. Check cap and rotor,wires and make sure the distributor is not bad.
Pull the cap and look for corrosion,pitting ect..make sure rotor button is good and not burnt, coil may be bad, maybe not. The Standard Motor Products part # is FD-478 same one as my truck uses about 30 bucks online (if you need one). They range in price from about 10 to 40 bux on Amazon. When i bought my truck about a year ago i replaced all the key components in the ignition as I didn't know the age of the ones on it and I kept some of them as "emergency" (being broke/stranded) parts
Pull the cap and look for corrosion,pitting ect..make sure rotor button is good and not burnt, coil may be bad, maybe not. The Standard Motor Products part # is FD-478 same one as my truck uses about 30 bucks online (if you need one). They range in price from about 10 to 40 bux on Amazon. When i bought my truck about a year ago i replaced all the key components in the ignition as I didn't know the age of the ones on it and I kept some of them as "emergency" (being broke/stranded) parts
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 735
Likes: 8
From: NC
the 1-2 code doesn't make sense. where are you seeing the "code"
Have you tried pulling codes from the computer? A code reader is very helpful. The OBD1 connector for pulling the codes either with a paper clip or code reader is located near the drivers side hood hinge on the inner fender.
Have you tried pulling codes from the computer? A code reader is very helpful. The OBD1 connector for pulling the codes either with a paper clip or code reader is located near the drivers side hood hinge on the inner fender.