How Far To Go...
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2016
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From: Texas
How Far To Go...
Just rolled over 180,500 miles on my 6.0 Excursion and I knew I had a slight head gasket leak since I got it at 150,000 miles. I’ve dumped almost $15k in parts alone since then and now it’s about time to weigh my options on what to do next...I can hear a slight lifter tick but she runs great other than the head gasket(s) pressurizing coolant.
Replace heads with Kill Devil Diesel O-ringed heads and Felpro head gaskets with the cab on
Pull the motor, replace lifters and pans, re-seal front and rear covers
Pull the motor, replace lifters/pans, re-seal rear cover, upgrade to front cover with 100mm water pump and replace LPOP
Pull the motor and have it rebuilt then do above
Replace motor with new long block with stage 1 Colt cam and o-ringed Kill Devil Diesel iron heads
Other recommendations for a 6.0 that’s not a daily driver but I need to be dependable and last another decade or more...light towing and some longer road trips pulling my small poling skiff (I’m a part time fishing guide)...
Replace heads with Kill Devil Diesel O-ringed heads and Felpro head gaskets with the cab on
Pull the motor, replace lifters and pans, re-seal front and rear covers
Pull the motor, replace lifters/pans, re-seal rear cover, upgrade to front cover with 100mm water pump and replace LPOP
Pull the motor and have it rebuilt then do above
Replace motor with new long block with stage 1 Colt cam and o-ringed Kill Devil Diesel iron heads
Other recommendations for a 6.0 that’s not a daily driver but I need to be dependable and last another decade or more...light towing and some longer road trips pulling my small poling skiff (I’m a part time fishing guide)...
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,828
Likes: 3,113
From: Jersey Shore
Slight lifter tick....... been there.
I have my own little money pit flung all over my garage.
If you think it's a lifter tick, it has to come out and the cam inspected. Then weigh your options.
The larger water pump on later models was for more coolant through the larger exhaust flow-through of the second generation of EGR cooler.
I have my own little money pit flung all over my garage.
If you think it's a lifter tick, it has to come out and the cam inspected. Then weigh your options.
The larger water pump on later models was for more coolant through the larger exhaust flow-through of the second generation of EGR cooler.
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Postmaster
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From: Texas
Yessir that’s the problem! I don’t have a whole lot of time to pull the motor and do a bunch of tear down and inspection of parts that might look fine but end up failing in no telling how long from now. I either need to install new heads and gaskets and see how far she takes me, do a little more and pull the motor to replace all the lifters, have a full rebuild done or just buy a long block and send in my core. It’s a tough decision. My lifter tick might not even be that, it’s just what Charlie Fish at KC Turbos heard when I sent him a video of my truck idling. 180k on a 6.0 that’s been taken care of isn’t a lot of miles. I’d like to hear more opinions. I’m sure most guys would just drop heads and gaskets on it and drive it until it dies but I really don’t want that day to be even a couple of years from now. A full rebuild or long block swap sounds better to me. If I go that route I need a reputable shop to get it from too.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
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From: Jersey Shore
Mine was referred as an injector tick, its a deep hole.
For me, the plan was pop one head and replace the lifter. That turned into both heads removed, fixing problems, finding more problems, then finding more problems., finding more problems..... On and on.
The process should have been almost full teardown and assess but I was trying to do this with the least expense, thinking things can't be that bad. In hindsight, a replacement short lock would have been better at the least in time if not cost. I don't want to total this up. What you are saying, a long block from Ashville or Kill Devil, or whomever you choose IMO would be best.
For me, the plan was pop one head and replace the lifter. That turned into both heads removed, fixing problems, finding more problems, then finding more problems., finding more problems..... On and on.
The process should have been almost full teardown and assess but I was trying to do this with the least expense, thinking things can't be that bad. In hindsight, a replacement short lock would have been better at the least in time if not cost. I don't want to total this up. What you are saying, a long block from Ashville or Kill Devil, or whomever you choose IMO would be best.
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Postmaster
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From: Texas
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Joined: Dec 2006
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From: So. Jersey
I don't hear anything suspicious but it could sound way different being there.
You could always pull the valve covers and inspect valve train for cracked rockers, bent pushrods, collapsed lifters, ect...
Personally, since you plan on heads anyways, I would inspect everything as it comes apart for the new heads. If you find something then deal with it. You could always pull the engine later.
I don't find it bothersome working on it with the engine in the frame. I can have one head off and starting on the second probably before some would have the engine out. Removing the drivers side engine mount and using a jack to raise or lower it to get the clearance is sufficient and works perfectly for me. Yanking the engine is alot more work and more opportunities for things to go wrong to me so I don't do it. But that's me. I guess some of my best work is laying down................. across a radiator!
You could always pull the valve covers and inspect valve train for cracked rockers, bent pushrods, collapsed lifters, ect...
Personally, since you plan on heads anyways, I would inspect everything as it comes apart for the new heads. If you find something then deal with it. You could always pull the engine later.
I don't find it bothersome working on it with the engine in the frame. I can have one head off and starting on the second probably before some would have the engine out. Removing the drivers side engine mount and using a jack to raise or lower it to get the clearance is sufficient and works perfectly for me. Yanking the engine is alot more work and more opportunities for things to go wrong to me so I don't do it. But that's me. I guess some of my best work is laying down................. across a radiator!
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Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
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From: Jersey Shore
I listened to it on my Mac and do not hear any ticking by my definition.
Here is my metallic tick, mostly heard around 0:20+.
Here is my metallic tick, mostly heard around 0:20+.
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Postmaster
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From: Texas
I don't hear anything suspicious but it could sound way different being there.
You could always pull the valve covers and inspect valve train for cracked rockers, bent pushrods, collapsed lifters, ect...
Personally, since you plan on heads anyways, I would inspect everything as it comes apart for the new heads. If you find something then deal with it. You could always pull the engine later.
I don't find it bothersome working on it with the engine in the frame. I can have one head off and starting on the second probably before some would have the engine out. Removing the drivers side engine mount and using a jack to raise or lower it to get the clearance is sufficient and works perfectly for me. Yanking the engine is alot more work and more opportunities for things to go wrong to me so I don't do it. But that's me. I guess some of my best work is laying down................. across a radiator!
You could always pull the valve covers and inspect valve train for cracked rockers, bent pushrods, collapsed lifters, ect...
Personally, since you plan on heads anyways, I would inspect everything as it comes apart for the new heads. If you find something then deal with it. You could always pull the engine later.
I don't find it bothersome working on it with the engine in the frame. I can have one head off and starting on the second probably before some would have the engine out. Removing the drivers side engine mount and using a jack to raise or lower it to get the clearance is sufficient and works perfectly for me. Yanking the engine is alot more work and more opportunities for things to go wrong to me so I don't do it. But that's me. I guess some of my best work is laying down................. across a radiator!
I just popped the hood and listened and don’t hear any odd noises either.
I listened to it on my Mac and do not hear any ticking by my definition.
Here is my metallic tick, mostly heard around 0:20+.
https://youtu.be/ONLXPvEnkjE
Here is my metallic tick, mostly heard around 0:20+.
https://youtu.be/ONLXPvEnkjE
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
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From: Jersey Shore
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: So. Jersey
I’m not scared to use that method to pull the heads but at 180k I’m almost dead set on replacing lifters which requires pulling the motor to remove the rears unless you drop the transmission and remove the rear cover with the engine in.
I just popped the hood and listened and don’t hear any odd noises either.
But by all means go for it. I'm not trying to persuade you either way. I just don't think it's an absolutely necessary IMO.
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Postmaster
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From: Texas
When I did mine and installed the KDD o-ringed heads it had 185k or there abouts. I gathered my parts including new Motorcraft lifters. Upon inspection of the front 2 sets I was able to check they looked and felt fine. Not a mark on anything. So I just swapped the front 2 sets. Right or wrong it is my truck and I already had the old ones with the new ones full of oil to go in. With the miles I've seen these go with original lifters I'm not scared. It turns a wheel everyday practically and always gets serviced timely and with synthetics along with other precautionary repairs and mods. If the lifter "Gods" pull my number then I'll deal with it.
But by all means go for it. I'm not trying to persuade you either way. I just don't think it's an absolutely necessary IMO.
But by all means go for it. I'm not trying to persuade you either way. I just don't think it's an absolutely necessary IMO.
If I could get Jared at KDD to return a call I’d be a little more motivated to buy his heads but I’m not dropping that kind of coin on someone’s product without a little more information. I know he’s up to his eyeballs in heads in the machine shop but that’s all because of guys that buy his heads. I’ve read enough on them on the powerstroke.org forum to make a man cross-eyed. I’d rather buy his o-ringed iron heads than a remanufactured set from anywhere else but I need a few minutes of his time to confirm a few things...
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Postmaster
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From: Texas
I think replacing lifters while I’m doing all this would be a good idea but if I pull them and they are in fine shape I still don’t think I’ll leave them. It’s not my style.