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E4OD Problems.Gears..No Gears

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Old Jan 17, 2019 | 08:22 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by dive2663225
Hey Brian, Thanks,
May I ask...What It cost you?...Did you do it with just a basic rebuild lit..(seals,friction plates,Thrust washers etc.) or did you ended up having to order additional parts ? and did you replace the TC ?
Sorry for the questions..but i cant stop counting my 1.95 till you answer LOl

Thanks
I actually spent a LOT of $$ on mine, but that was on upgraded hard parts. A basic rebuild kit is what I'd suggest for you.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2019 | 08:56 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by dive2663225
So, your saying..if i unplugged the MPL..and the The solenoid pack on a healthy E4OD. , I would be able To Still get Gears?

That's correct. With everything unplugged the trans will have fourth gear with the torque converter unlocked.

Originally Posted by dive2663225
And..RE=break in oil in the Trans. That was My Own decision, To Change fluid and Filter @20K miles,,,even

So break in oil is just changing the original oil early. Got it.

Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
That's correct,you can remove the electrical to the trans and you should always have reverse (nothing in D) along with 2nd gear in either the manual 1 or 2 position.
That's not correct. With the MLP disconnected the trans will have fourth gear in the D position. As you said it will have second gear in both the 1 and 2 positions.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2019 | 09:35 PM
  #18  
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From: Mi'kma'ki
Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
That's not correct. With the MLP disconnected the trans will have fourth gear in the D position. As you said it will have second gear in both the 1 and 2 positions.
I think we're both correct aren't we Mark? If you have no power to the solenoid pack,you'll still have 2nd gear in both the manual 1 and 2 positions,4th gear in D position and reverse remains too of course.
Does something different happen when you keep power to the solenoid pack while disconnecting the MLPS connector? You wont still have 2nd gear in both manual 1 & 2 positions in this scenario?
 
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Old Jan 18, 2019 | 09:45 AM
  #19  
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Yes, Original Fluids, Replaced Early
 
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Old Jan 18, 2019 | 10:00 AM
  #20  
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Thanks Again Fella's, I decided...To Get it over..to where i can work on it., And Take it down, And do it myself.
One Question?.....Should i do the complete tear down, Before ordering any Parts?...do you think this is wise? My Concern here is a 28 year old E4OD If I find that extra parts needed...starts to run..Near a rebuilt Cost..Then I have to contend with trying to return..Not Needed Parts....Your Thoughts Gentleman??
I am Reading Up on a Seemingly Nightmare of These Transmissions With a few sets of Planetary gear assembly's being made of Aluminum..which in a few pulls and Breakdown commentary's always show some Damage...and all say..The Steel ones should have been put in there.

In any Case..It may be slow pokin But i will keep Posting as I go, for those curious

Thanks to all of you cats...Be Safe
 
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Old Jan 18, 2019 | 01:33 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
I think we're both correct aren't we Mark? If you have no power to the solenoid pack ,you'll still have 2nd gear in both the manual 1 and 2 positions,4th gear in D position and reverse remains too of course.
Does something different happen when you keep power to the solenoid pack while disconnecting the MLPS connector? You wont still have 2nd gear in both manual 1 & 2 positions in this scenario?
Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
A failed range sensor can cause the trans to seem to go into neutral then hard re-engagement. This is why I asked what happens when that happens if you shift in manual 1 or 2? Do you still have movement or not?

That's correct,you can remove the electrical to the trans and you should always have reverse (nothing in D) along with 2nd gear in either the manual 1 or 2 position.
I read that as you are saying you'll have nothing in D. Nothing to me is neutral. That's not correct, you will still get an engagement. Now that I think about it, with the MLP unplugged it may still shift. But it definitely isn't stuck in neutral.

 
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Old Jan 18, 2019 | 03:06 PM
  #22  
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From: Mi'kma'ki
Oh I see.That there was describing when a MLPS fails while driving down the road (It goes to 1st gear but due to the valve body,it wont allow engagement at great speed and neutrals out) it can feel as if the trans goes into neutral.
Yeah,I dunno why I said "nothing" in D,instead of high gear though.That was definatly incorrect.Too much on my mind yesterday I guess.

He's not answering whether or not he has and keeps 2nd gear at all times and I dunno why.Sure would be a bummer to tear a trans down,reman and have same problem.He may not know he still has high gear,if he's not pressing hard enough on the skinny and since his eyesight isn't the best anymore,maybe he's not seeing the glowing od cancel light?
 
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Old Jan 18, 2019 | 04:27 PM
  #23  
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It's been interesting reading you guys go back and forth, good info folded up in those posts to unwrap.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2019 | 07:54 PM
  #24  
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Send off an oil sample and see if it is cooked. They can tell by comparing to past E4OD samples.

Hook up a set of gauges and see if makes pressure.

The manual for the transmission has a very specific sequence of tests to verify condition.

After you got 28 years of service from the transmission it is difficult to understand your attitude. You have a great transmission there, fix it and run it another 28 years. It will outlast the rest of the truck.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2019 | 12:42 AM
  #25  
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Thank You for your Input Hard Scrable
But What is it about my attitude..that you can't Understand? I am On here asking for advise, The truck is in good condition because I have taken care of it, Ordered a Dodge challenger just out of the USMC in 73'.. paid 4,200 bucks for it,.In 1990 i used the challenger as a down payment for this truck.....Outside of the Transmission This truck never saw the inside of a shop since it went off warrante
I am not, nor do i profess to be any kind of transmission Mechanic..So I suppose No Matter how well you take care of it...This Transmission WILL need to be yanked and service...every 80-100K miles, from then to now..it has been pulled out of the truck..3 times...First time...Just off warantee period..costing 28-2900 bucks..then...pump seal went out ...Still under warrantee with AAmco....they took care of it ..but i had to pay for all parts....Then...4 years later..Pump seal again..I was lucky this time..it was only like 350...And now...Who Knows whats gonna happen next?...I understand,,part wear..Clutch/disks..You would think, They could have been built or designed a bit better for longevity..After all its costly
I know..some transmissions..not even taken care of...End up going to the junkyard after many years of service..and right to the end..they run..Like Chrysler "Torque-Flight"
I enjoy actually..to own a piece of machinery,,well engineered..to a point..if taken care of..They last for ever.. Not complaining..and i am no licensed engineer...But..I Believe Ford Could have produced a Much better engineered transmission, If they wanted to..Just Saying...does all this..help you understand my Attitude?
I hope you get it
For those Curious..got her down here this afternoon..off the hook...Makin lots of prep..Got her jacked in the air..Tomorrow..will do some tests..then put the wrench to er
 
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Old Jan 19, 2019 | 06:02 AM
  #26  
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I have two E4ODs in two vehicles of my own and have dealt with others as well. None have required removal from the vehicle. Thirty years, countless miles, never dropped an E4OD for transmission failure. In your case a transmission failure is more likely since it has been to a transmission shop. Still, be real sure you need to break it down. Done a whole bunch of filters and fluid changes. Whole bunch of MLPS (TRS) changes. Probably do another MLPS soon, saw a reverse light glitch and got a couple hard shifts.

E4ODs do NOT need a rebuild every 100K. That's BS. Pulling more than designed after 200K is normal.

Newfoundland? USMC? No stranger to adverse conditions.

This isn't a personal thing with you. I've read a bunch of threads here over the last 20 years or so. People want to put problems on E4ODs where there no problem. Be sure that's not what is going on here.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2019 | 11:27 AM
  #27  
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Well Mr. hard..sounds like you are tired of people..coming on here...seeking Information, and getting Advise...Not everybody that comes on here Has your great knowledge and Experience, and Wisdom. When Folks come on here..and ask a question..that seems stupid to you...Maybe Its time after 20 years..you should have a long hard look..at your own Attitude
Are you on here to criticize people condescendingly? or here to help people?
​​​​​​​I'm Sorry..But i didn't see anything Useful..about Judging my Attitude
 
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Old Jan 19, 2019 | 12:34 PM
  #28  
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Welcome to the forum. Here, meet hardscrabble.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2019 | 08:43 PM
  #29  
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LOL...I Guess i have,
Every Thing Is Disconnected, Except Bell housing bolts,,,She will come down tomorrow ...I decided To drain The pan, Pan had very little debris in it, However...I kinda got sick..when I saw the last..PROFESSIONAL,,That had my tranny down..never put my Magnet back in the pan..Fluid Wasen't To Bad...I Ran Some, Pressures before shutting it down...Crazzzzzy...Warming up..at 65 PSI In Park....And made its way to 180 PSI after 5 min of running...Then shifted thru the gears..eventually..Just got 35 PSI no matter where i put her..Pump/TC..making a bit of a Racket.
I will dissect...the filter tomorrow
I will try and shoot some pictures tomorrow If Anyone is Interested
 
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Old Jan 20, 2019 | 09:06 AM
  #30  
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Interested in what you find.
 
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