new respect for those who did exhaust studs; there kicking My A$$
#16
#18
You should consider yourself a lucky man! Have a bourbon to celebrate! The corroded ones were the last two for me. Ended up drilling. Borrowed a friend reversible Mac air drill and stubby bits. I really doubt the left hand will bite. Mine fought all the way. Just don't break anything off in the hole.
#20
but if you do, a carbide bit (dremel, cheap harbor freight, etc etc) will work to get it out.....i broke an easy out trying to get #20 out. that stud alone kicked my assed for at least 7hrs, it took as long as the rest.
i was using a Lincoln 100 mig, i was able to get everything glowing red, it had good enough penetration, but the studs that were broke sub flush I had to drill. luckily it was only 2 and the 1st came out relatively easy.
Also my m12 fuel drill was able to just barely clear everything with stubby bits. i tried an m12 right angle drill but w/ only 100in/lb it just didn't have the power compared to an air drill (but i don't have a compressor big enough at only 20gal)
2 circled were the subflush ones....
it's such a great feeling when you get to this point.
i was using a Lincoln 100 mig, i was able to get everything glowing red, it had good enough penetration, but the studs that were broke sub flush I had to drill. luckily it was only 2 and the 1st came out relatively easy.
Also my m12 fuel drill was able to just barely clear everything with stubby bits. i tried an m12 right angle drill but w/ only 100in/lb it just didn't have the power compared to an air drill (but i don't have a compressor big enough at only 20gal)
2 circled were the subflush ones....
it's such a great feeling when you get to this point.
#23
I think the lesson here is the importance of anti-seize when using dissimilar metals that get constantly heated and cooled. For anyone interested in a late night read: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion
#24
#25
I used a cheap 110V Italian MIG on mine, stud was broken about 2 full threads deep below the head surface. Are you trying to shoot through the nut onto the stud? That's where I had issues with good penetration, build up the weld bead on the stud till it's above the surface a bit then put the nut over that and fill it with more weld.
Good luck!
#26
I used a cheap 110V Italian MIG on mine, stud was broken about 2 full threads deep below the head surface. Are trying to shoot through the nut onto the stud? That's where I had issues with good penetration, build up the eked bead on the stud till it's above the surface a bit then put the nut over that and fill it with more weld.
Good luck!
that didnt work for me but there wasn’t anything that would get that one out. Even drilling then retapping it was very difficult, i chipped a pretty high quality tap!
#27
I have no idea which gaskets come with the Banks headers, but I have never needed to go back and retorque the new bolts on them, it's been 8 years and 50K miles.
#30
Yep, punched a mark on my failed weld blob and went after it with left handed drill bits. I have yet to hear of someone having luck with these studs and left hand bits......... then once the hole was big enough, used an Easy-Out. I don't think the template things were around back when I did mine.