If the timing gear components are in good shape, I guess you don'thave to replace any other major parts-just the seals and gaskets of course. I have always hated having to go back and replace sometheng related to an original replacement job, but you can sometimes go too extreme with replacing parts too. You would know the condition(or can check) of your parts better than most of us, and it is your project (and your money). I would suggest to check things out before you assemble them together, replace as needed.

 

Upgrading camshafts means you're trying to improve air movement.
To improve air movement, It would only make sense to also upgrade to exhaust headers and a 4 barrel intake/carb.

 

 

Kind of a waste of time on a 360. You have low compression and sunken pistons with fairly low RPM. If you go with a cam, you would want a shorter duration but higher lift so as to fill the cylinder as quick as possible and make sure the valves are closed before the compression stroke starts.

If you are not going to go to a 390 with some compression I would leave the stock cam. Not worth the hassle of break in, new springs etc.

You have headers already, and what to you have for a carb?

 

New cam + New lifters + new/excellent pushrods + recommended spring pressure = Happiness

 

 

As they were saying, a new cam automatically needs new lifters. You can get away with new lifters on a good used cam, but never heard of anyone doing it the other way successfully. Maybe have, but I don't think it's a good idea.
As for valve springs, it depends on the cam you choose. If a slight up-tick from stock (there aren't many of those anymore!) you might be able to test the existing springs to see if they're still within the ratings that the cam manufacturer gives.
If the cam manufacturer says that stock springs are not acceptable, then you really are stuck replacing them with something that falls within the manufacturer's specifications.

I'd just do new springs no matter what nowadays. The old stock ones were great and very reliable. But they're also very old now. Adding a new, higher lift cam changes the dynamics (literally!) by quite a bit and the old, otherwise perfectly good springs, might die an early and ugly death once you're back on the road.
I've tested and re-used stock springs on some engines before, but we were always going with stock, or near-stock cams in those engines. In other engines, I've never NOT replaced the springs with even a mild performance camshaft.

In the same "while I'm here" theme, if your engine has more than 50k miles on it, I would just do a full valve job routine on the heads. Pretty much does not make sense not to do it when you've dug deep enough to change a cam and valve springs.

I don't know enough about 360's specifically to say those that say upgrading is not worth it are wrong. Just that using more cam in any engine should improve things at least a little. The cam does not physically raise the compression ratio, but the right cam does bring up cylinder pressures (what you read with the compression gauge tests) which can improve power too. And hopefully your combustion chambers are of a design that can handle it without complaining (pinging).
With '70's vintage engines too, just advancing the cam a few degrees can help as well. They were often retarded to raise the rpm at which peak power is generated, in order to lower emissions in conjunction with all the other things they did back then. Advancing the cam can bring back some of what the original designers wanted. Might not apply to the 360, but then again it might. The others would know if that's a viable "thing" or not.

Good luck with whatever you do.

Paul

 

That was me. It is true low compression and a "lumpy" cam does not work. Now, a "mild" cam will. One that is meant for torque rather than a high RPM powerband. 2X on a mild cam with more lift. The 2V Holley comes in 2 sizes. 350 CFM and 500 CFM. What is the "list" number on the front of your carb's air horn? In either case, I would invest in an aluminum intake manifold and a 600 CFM 4V carb of your preference. You will have that 2V intake off anyways. Garrett was exactly right about air movement above. You don't want the carb and exhaust manifolds choking the cam.