Hi everybody. So. Long story. This past spring I bought my first truck for a job driving an amish construction crew from a used car dealer. When I bought it it 241xxx mi on it I do believe. The guys at the dealer told me that it was a good truck and their mechanic had worked on it recently. It just needed new tires,and seat covers if the leather wear was an issue. Test drive went well, drove it home about 1.5 hrs drive. Get the oil changed and all that. We have it for a few weeks before the job began and so I decide to drive it one afternoon and notice that the steering wheel was moving a Lot, like loose. So we take it to the local diesel guy, he calls it a "death wobble", so we have him fix it for us. So that's fixed. Then we realize the radiator was leaking. So we replaced that. Then the job starts and its being driven on the interstate about 40 miles there and back. My bf ends up leaving this job because he doesn't feel safe with driving this while crew in a truck that doesn't feel right. So we get that its an older truck, that will run forever with good maintenance, its probably getting to 'that' point where things are gonna start going. Anyway, so we don't drive this vehicle a lot after that. Mostly on the weekends when we do leisure stuff, never more than 50 miles out from home. One day he's driving and the O/D light starts to flash, and its shifting hard. It comes out of it but them does it again. All the while this truck is difficult to start. Takes forever letting the batteries get warmed up and many tries of turning the key to get it going. Now it won't even start, it turns though. Also, the dome light doesn't work, one of the doors doesn't lock with the fob/interior button on driver door, the charger ports don't work(and are like loose in the dash) the radio 's player doesn't work,it ate a CD. I've read so many threads on this website and watched videos on YouTube. It seems like maybe a fuse is my problem with the o/d\shifting and lights, and the Injector Driver Module is probably the problem with not wanting to start. I would love to get your guys opinions and advice. I'm desperate and so frustrated with this situation. A lot of people said to not go get the transmission replaced bc it was most likely a fuse messing with the shifting/od. I myself haven't checked the fuse boes) but I'm about to just replace every single one. I want to get this truck running well even if just to sell it. If you've read this far thank you SO much for taking the time. Any advice appreciated.
Edit: sorry guys I forgot to mention- this is a 2001 F250 7.3L

 

 

 

 

Moved to the 7.3 forum based upon the year of the truck.

 

If you must post a long story it would be best if you could break it up into paragraphs with each one dedicated to one issue. Due to attention deficit disorder I cannot read the OP.

 

Just a quick reality check on repair strategy - if your truck does require a $4000 transmission, are you going to do it? If not, you should probably work on getting some clues to the transmission status (pull codes, check fluid color/odor) before spending money on getting the engine running in top shape. There is only so much transmission diagnosis that can be completed without it running, but if you drop the pan to find stinky dark brown fluid with large metal chunks rolling around in there, even the FBI would call that a clue. If you're in it for the long haul, then by all means get it running first.

Great advice already listed, and making sure the electrical system is at 100% is first on the list for a reason - don't skip it! Careful, pragmatic diagnosis will find the issues and cost less by fixing what is actually broken instead of wildly guessing at what is causing the problem and throwing expensive parts like an IDM at it in hopes of fixing it. Process of elimination is an expensive diagnostic strategy with these machines.

My personal opinion is that a decent OBDII interface and software to read the codes is almost crucial. A Bluetooth or USB interface can be had for around $30, and Forscan is free for use with a Windows computer using Win7 or newer. Plug it in, download the codes, and you'll get a lot of information on the health of the engine (even if it won't run) as well as pointers to what is causing various issues.

With some patience and dirty hands, the gang here will lead you through diagnosing and repairing your truck.

 

With a wide variety of electrical gremlins like that I'd suspect the windshield gasket is leaking. The water then drips down on the fuse box under the dash. Keep it out of the rain if possible. Hang your hairdryer on the steering wheel pointed up around the fuse box for a couple hours. Panel off, of course. That will dry it out.

Lots of good advice above too. Agreed that getting a way to read codes is a big plus. I like Torque Pro app on an android phone, easier interface than ForScan. Doesn't do all the tests, but for getting codes and reading sensors it's great.

 

*O/D light starts to flash, and its shifting hard
--There are stored codes. The transmission is begging to tell you why it is feeling miserable and behaving this way. The worst-case scenario is expensive, but it may not be the worst case. You *should* be able to get these codes without the engine running, if I'm not mistaken. If you are going to try to check them yourself, I'm sure someone here knows what apps can access the transmission codes. If not, I can check to see if Torque Pro and/or Forscan can do it.

*this truck is difficult to start
-- Seems like around this time of year, almost every other thread on the forum is a hard start, no start, or no crank thread. Cold weather makes weak systems weaker and exposes system deficiencies. There is usually a *reasonably* inexpensive fix - but there can be some costly causes as well. Good news is, it usually isn't too expensive to diagnose. Once you're sure the batteries and electrical are trustworthy, start here: https://oregonfuelinjection.com/serv...gnostics/#1994

Make sure you are looking under the "1994-2003 7.3l Powerstroke" section, as you will be confused if you start at the top of the document.

*Also, the dome light doesn't work
--Common problem, it could be as simple as a blown bulb or the foil connectors inside the light housing.

*one of the doors doesn't lock with the fob/interior button on driver door
--Another common issue with an older Ford... or pretty much any vehicle of this vintage. I'm not a "jumping to conclusions" guy, but I'd suspect the lock servo - especially if the fob operates the other doors. I would absolutely do some simple testing to try to prove myself wrong...

*the charger ports don't work(and are like loose in the dash)
--The answer to this may be as simple as the statement: "loose in the dash". Gotta take it apart and look...

*the radio 's player doesn't work,it ate a CD.
--Is this the OEM stereo? As in, the electro-mechanical device that's been bouncing around in a firm suspension commercial-duty work truck for 18 years? Since we're Internet guessing, I'd call that a probable lifecycle issue, but not electrical and something that might be easily repairable.