When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I might have to try getting rid of the proportioning valve like you did. I added the same booster, the larger piston torino calipers, and a master from a dual piston caliper f-250, and it just doesn't stop as well as I think it should. Doesn't seem to have much initial bite when you step on the brakes. I was going to try a more aggressive pad(parts store ceramic on the truck now, rebuilt factory drums on the rear), but I could try getting rid of the proportioning valve first.
Jess
I've tried several pads. Even big money EBC's. They all performed the same. I really believe the factory proportioning valve was the problem. I think it impeded front and rear brakes. This setup with no pro-valve on the front brakes, and adjustable valve on rear works so much better than I expected. It's supposed to rain tonight, so tomorrow I'll get the rear brake bias dialed in on wet roads. Again, I'm very pleased!
The biggest take away for me on this project is to only use steel brake line fittings on future projects. I love the nickel / copper tubing, but the tiny 3/8" brass fittings booger up when you tighten them. I left all the lines a little long in case I decide to cut and re-flare with steel fittings.
I have an F350 and I don't personally feel like the brakes are all that great. They work, but they don't give me any "bite" feeling. The pedal acts quick, so they are working well, just feels like no feedback to me. Guess I'm used to car brakes that aren't 40 years old :P
I guess hydro boost is not for me; last year so far, I spent a fresh belt (not sure why, maybe not tightened properly or maybe faulty) while towing a trailer, no belt=no power steering pump=no brake boost, I have lost a seal in the steering box and had to remove belt to get home on no pwr steering, hence reason for new belt, also causing a dangerous condition for brake power assist, and I have had a piece of debris plug the filter in the power steering pump. All of these things likely or certainly would have caused unsafe brake condition. Under none of these conditions did my vacuum connection ever become compromised in any way. I will probably never switch to hydroboost. In my eyes it relies on belts, engine running, oil reservoir, pressure, andall of these things can fail. Plus, if the engine dies, I have a fewstabs of power from the stored vacuum.
So, all the years I ran w/o hydroboost (more than 20!) I NEVER had one of the conditions you mention occur, and my p/s system was working flawlessly then. Now I have run HB for ... almost 10 years, without any of the conditions you mention happening. I tow, drive to Baja with camper and boat and family, and every time I touch the brake pedal I inwardly smile because I've tried the dual diapham boosters and this (HB) is WAY better. It is too bad that happened to you. But you made it safely.
I have an F350 and I don't personally feel like the brakes are all that great. They work, but they don't give me any "bite" feeling. The pedal acts quick, so they are working well, just feels like no feedback to me. Guess I'm used to car brakes that aren't 40 years old :P
I switched to the dual booster, drove it, tried the brakes, and still did not feel that the brakes were good enough. That same day I pulled the booster and installed hydroboost. It is one of the best mods I've done to the truck. It brought the brakes into the new millennium. Now I feel absolutely confident in every situation with the brakes.
What are you hydroboost guys doing with factory cruise?
I did the f350 2wd booster and master with full size car calipers and f350 cylinders about 12 years ago on my 79 f150. I would like more braking power what i have is slightly better than stock but I am interested in hydroboost. However I recall there is a difference in booster rods for factory cruise and without. The cruise rod as a different shape to it. Has anybody done the hydroboost and retained factory cruise control? If so what parts were used?
Does hydroboost work well with stock f150 calipers?
I didn't know what hyroboost was so I looked it up, and it uses power steering instead of Engine Vacuum.
I was thinking. On older engines, for things like the EGR valve, they connect to a Vacuum canister which acts like a Vacuum reservoir. I wonder if that Vacuum reservoir also comes into play with braking? Adding a bit more "oomph". Meh maybe not. I mean, when you are braking, engine vacuum is increasing to max over time. Just was a thought. Because I think I don't have any Vacuum reservoirs anymore..hmm.
Well actually on my truck there is still some sort of reservoir or canister on the driver's side under the wheel well. Maybe that is an Evap? I didn't think it was though . I have to try to trace where it's hose goes.
I know there used to be a Vacuum canister (coffee can looking thing) on the passenger side on my truck, that hooked up to the Vacuum amplifier for the EGR. But I removed that and set it aside.
I have an F350 and I don't personally feel like the brakes are all that great. They work, but they don't give me any "bite" feeling. The pedal acts quick, so they are working well, just feels like no feedback to me. Guess I'm used to car brakes that aren't 40 years old :P
I'm leaning toward No, the booster is not an upgrade. I think plumbing the front brakes direct to the master cylinder, and using a good adjustable proportioning valve on rear brakes is what made all the difference. But either way, I couldn't be happier.
I tend to agree, the factory prop valve is problematic. My original one failed and I went through 3 brass aftermarket ones. Frustrated with changing it every 3months I installed a mustang master cyl on the original booster and plumbed in a valve from a 1998 jeep Cherokee (xj body) brake pedal feel is much better and stopping force has improved. I have used this set up for almost a year now with no issues.
Cheers!
Has anyone tried a auxiliary vacuum pump on the F-350 booster ?
Based on what I've learned on this project, I'd say it won't improve braking. Don't get me wrong, I'm enjoying much better brakes now. But I'm pretty sure the improvement I got is from new lines, direct plumbed front brakes, and rear brake only adjustable proportioning valve. The F350 booster didn't increase the stopping power, it just made the pedal easier to push. Actually, I'd prefer it wasn't as soft. A vacuum pump, or reserve canisters would probably make the pedal even easier to push, but it won't increase hydraulic pressure at the calipers and drums.
My pedal is kinda hard but with the cam I have it doesn't have much vacuum to start with. Like everybody else I put the F-350 booster and master in a few years back expecting great things. One thing for sure, a complete vacuum pump set up is anything but cheap.
My pedal is kinda hard but with the cam I have it doesn't have much vacuum to start with. Like everybody else I put the F-350 booster and master in a few years back expecting great things. One thing for sure, a complete vacuum pump set up is anything but cheap.
Oh. Well since you've got a burly camshaft, you surely won't get good vacuum on the booster without help. A vacuum pump would do it. But if I was in your shoes, I'd do hydraboost.
Ranger, where did you get that Proportioning valve? I'm finally trying to do something about my overloaded 77 F-150 daily driver. I replaced my stock proportioning valve 20 years ago with a true ford dealer part, but I'm beginning to suspect that it is part of my woes. I can't find an F-350 booster either.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.