Hey everyone

2013 F150 Ecoboost 4x4, 185k miles

While driving down the road I noticed a light buzzing noise coming from the front end, and when I wiggle the steering wheel left and right, you can feel the buzzing/vibration in the steering wheel. When I engage 4wd, the buzzing turns into a deeper tone, hard to explain, but you can also feel it more pronounced in the steering wheel with 4wd engaged. Since 4wd actuators are a known wear item with these trucks, I'm going to assume mine are bad, or are heading that way. I'm also going to check out the hub assemblies and change them too if needed.

Couple of questions:

What brand of replacement parts have you had good or bad luck with? I priced OEM parts for the job and I'll spend the $ if needed, but really don't want to live on ramen noodles for a while lol

What all tools are needed for the repair (assume I'll need to replace hubs and actuators)? Don't want to get it torn down and find out I need some special puller.

Any other items I should check out while I have it all apart? Already planning on checking out the ball joints and cv's.

Thanks in advance

 

I can't remember what brand i bought, but it was the mid-priced one from rock auto. It's been installed for a little over 2 years with no issues to date. No special tools are needed, just some grease to re-lube the axle shaft, iwe engagement teeth. After you get the wheel and brake caliper removed, remove the small axle nut. Then remove the upper ball jount nut so you can disconnect the steering knuckle at the top (this will allow the proper clearance to push the axle in far enough to get the iwe/ hub removed). then remove the 3 bolts(8mm i belive)that hold the iwe/hub to the steering knuckle. Disconnect the vacuum line from the iwe/hub and then remove the hub. Make sure to be careful on the reinstall, especially when reinstalling the axle into the hub. make sure you don't snag the axle on the dust cover or the air bladder.

Hope this helps,
Q.

 

Go with OEM parts for sure. They are worth the money. They usually come pre-greased, but be sure because you dont want to over or under grease the areas. The non-oem are usually some chinese crap and you're going to get what you paid for, they dont last. I've changed my hubs, iwe's, calipers, rotors, brake soft lines, and pads all in one shot and it's all relatively easy. I do suggest trying to do as much of that at the same time as possible. I know it costs a bit of money, but continuously having to lift the truck and remove the front wheels gets old really fast. I also suggest writing down the date you change the parts and mileage of the truck when you do it. It's good to have, just in case you get the occasional faulty part. That doesnt usually happen, but it can. As far as tools, I used my trucks jack, my small metric(none over 22mm) socket set, a breaker bar, a rubber mallet(just in case), a pry bar, some music and a few beers. Remember too, if you open any hydraulic line, you'll need to potentially fill and definitely bleed the system of any air. There's a few guys on YouTube who have the whole process in depth.

 

 

As much as I like to buy genuine parts these are jot one of those items. The stock ones and the Motorcraft are no worse and no better than the aftermarket. I use the 40.00 ones from Ebay. Buy at least 6 pairs to keep on hand at the shop. They fit all trucks 04-14. Also consider replacing the IWE solenoid and the hub unit bearings while you have everything apart especially at that mileage.