2003 F-150 5.4L 4x4 King Ranch Manual Transmission Swap
Rockauto shows a 6 bolt and an 8 bolt crankshaft pattern possible for the 4.6 flywheel, but only an 8 bolt pattern for the 5.4 flexplate. Something to be aware of, I'd guess. Good luck.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...,flywheel,5348
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...flexplate,8608
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...,flywheel,5348
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...flexplate,8608
6 vs 8 bolt
Rockauto shows a 6 bolt and an 8 bolt crankshaft pattern possible for the 4.6 flywheel, but only an 8 bolt pattern for the 5.4 flexplate. Something to be aware of, I'd guess. Good luck.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...,flywheel,5348
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...flexplate,8608
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...,flywheel,5348
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...flexplate,8608
Romeo(all aluminum block) runs 6 bolt. All 4.6 Windsor and 5.4’s run an 8 bolt crank. Should bolt up no issues. My main concern was there’s two sizes available. It’s less than an inch but rotating mass is of the main concern for question. Little lighter should spin up a tad faster but come down a hair slower..in theory.
Somebody really ought to start making parts for this swap
Flywheels, pedal supports and trans adapters would be nice for starters
Lust like the old Lingenfelter Corvette 383's, now days everybody and their dog offers a forged 400 crank for a 350 Chev
Flywheels, pedal supports and trans adapters would be nice for starters
Lust like the old Lingenfelter Corvette 383's, now days everybody and their dog offers a forged 400 crank for a 350 Chev
Expensive…
Hello everyone, First time writing on this forum, but used it a lot for my DIY repairs and mods.
A little story about me, I'm from Quebec, Canada, up north in the very cold lol, I speak english but mostly french, my English could be bad sometimes, just like my french lol. I like fixing my own stuff (and most of the time other peoples cars/trucks). I always bought not working cars for cheap and made them work for a while, Roadkill style.
I had 2 XL Offroad edition (3 doors, 6ft bed) with the 4.6L manual transmission, the M5OD-R2. 4 years ago, I striped down both mecanics hoping using them one day. My last one was a normal f-150 xl, automatic, 4x4. rusted as hell, but did the job. But I Found this King Ranch for sale on facebook, working, but needing some love. This would be my 6th F-150 10th Gen.
So last September, I bought this 2003 King Ranch with the 5.4L and automatic transmission, 4 doors 5ft short bed with a 5inch rough country lift kit, and did the normal tune up, sparkplugs, coil plugs, filters, new gas tank, etc. On December 24, I was doing 7h of road with the truck to go see family I haven't seen for years. 4h down the road, the automatic transmission lost all its oil (poor guy behind me). I brought the truck back 2 days after to my friends garage, he told me to park it in the back. But I parked it in the garage and striped down everything that's for Automatic, went and get my manual transmission stuff, and started the manual transmission swap. Mesured everything to make sure I had all the right driveshaft lenght and all the other stuff.
Today, almost everything is back together, except the Clutch Cylinder hose, I lost the clip inside that holds the plug inside the slave cylinder, even if it was brand new, 4 years ago. So I decided to not put the driveshafts back on, wanting to see what I needed to do the wiring to make it work (I unpluged 3 plugs from the automatic shifter on the steering colomn). So I connect the battery, then by curiosity I pushed the remote starter, and Surprise the engine started right away ! Oh and I didn't change the PCM, will be getting it too a garage guy I know who has the computer to flash it.
I can't wait for that clip to come in so I can test the clutch and do a road test ! I hope it will work fine. I need my truck asap. My other car is a 2003 Lincoln LS v8, tons and tons of problems in the winter seasons lol. The nice part of this project, it didn't cost me a dime, I had everything I needed for this swap. and it wasn't that much.
Here is a small list of the things I did :
- Drain the Cooling System and Removed the Intake Manifold. This give easy access to the 2 top the transmission-to-engine bolts.
- Unplugged the transmission harness (the big one on the right side of the truck (near the battery).
- Removed Transfer case,Transmission and hoses, pushed the crossmember further back (can't remove it with this lift kit, but oem is easy to remove)
- Installed the Pilot Bearing, Flywheel (Stock from my old 4.6l) and Clutch kit (Banhoff Stage 3, bought on Ebay ,worked great 4 years ago)
- Removed the Automatic Shifter from the steering colomn (have to take off most of the plastics from the dash and the cluster)
- Removed the Brake Pedal and installed the clutch-brake assembly, with the Clutch Master Cylinder. The rubber plug that is on the firewall where goes the Master Clutch Cyl., keep it and put it where the auto shifter cable goes by the transmission tunnel.
- Cut a hole on the floor where the shifter goes. I miscalculated it and had to trim a little from the inside. I will fix that later.
- Installed the Manual Transmission Wiring Harness. Make sure you place it so it doesn't bug you while your installing the transmission.
- Installed the Transmission and the Transfer case. (for now I've been using my manual t.case, since the electric t.case that came in the truck has a broken fork and gears and I needed the 4x4, lots of snow up here).
- This would be the time to put the driveshaft, but for me, I'm waiting to test the gears from the transmission in the garage before I go for a road test.
Now I'm waiting for my missing part, so I can bleed and test my clutch and do a road test. I was able to put it in gears while the transmission was on the floor, but since its behind the engine, i can't shift it into gears, I hope that's normal...
A little story about me, I'm from Quebec, Canada, up north in the very cold lol, I speak english but mostly french, my English could be bad sometimes, just like my french lol. I like fixing my own stuff (and most of the time other peoples cars/trucks). I always bought not working cars for cheap and made them work for a while, Roadkill style.
I had 2 XL Offroad edition (3 doors, 6ft bed) with the 4.6L manual transmission, the M5OD-R2. 4 years ago, I striped down both mecanics hoping using them one day. My last one was a normal f-150 xl, automatic, 4x4. rusted as hell, but did the job. But I Found this King Ranch for sale on facebook, working, but needing some love. This would be my 6th F-150 10th Gen.
So last September, I bought this 2003 King Ranch with the 5.4L and automatic transmission, 4 doors 5ft short bed with a 5inch rough country lift kit, and did the normal tune up, sparkplugs, coil plugs, filters, new gas tank, etc. On December 24, I was doing 7h of road with the truck to go see family I haven't seen for years. 4h down the road, the automatic transmission lost all its oil (poor guy behind me). I brought the truck back 2 days after to my friends garage, he told me to park it in the back. But I parked it in the garage and striped down everything that's for Automatic, went and get my manual transmission stuff, and started the manual transmission swap. Mesured everything to make sure I had all the right driveshaft lenght and all the other stuff.
Today, almost everything is back together, except the Clutch Cylinder hose, I lost the clip inside that holds the plug inside the slave cylinder, even if it was brand new, 4 years ago. So I decided to not put the driveshafts back on, wanting to see what I needed to do the wiring to make it work (I unpluged 3 plugs from the automatic shifter on the steering colomn). So I connect the battery, then by curiosity I pushed the remote starter, and Surprise the engine started right away ! Oh and I didn't change the PCM, will be getting it too a garage guy I know who has the computer to flash it.
I can't wait for that clip to come in so I can test the clutch and do a road test ! I hope it will work fine. I need my truck asap. My other car is a 2003 Lincoln LS v8, tons and tons of problems in the winter seasons lol. The nice part of this project, it didn't cost me a dime, I had everything I needed for this swap. and it wasn't that much.
Here is a small list of the things I did :
- Drain the Cooling System and Removed the Intake Manifold. This give easy access to the 2 top the transmission-to-engine bolts.
- Unplugged the transmission harness (the big one on the right side of the truck (near the battery).
- Removed Transfer case,Transmission and hoses, pushed the crossmember further back (can't remove it with this lift kit, but oem is easy to remove)
- Installed the Pilot Bearing, Flywheel (Stock from my old 4.6l) and Clutch kit (Banhoff Stage 3, bought on Ebay ,worked great 4 years ago)
- Removed the Automatic Shifter from the steering colomn (have to take off most of the plastics from the dash and the cluster)
- Removed the Brake Pedal and installed the clutch-brake assembly, with the Clutch Master Cylinder. The rubber plug that is on the firewall where goes the Master Clutch Cyl., keep it and put it where the auto shifter cable goes by the transmission tunnel.
- Cut a hole on the floor where the shifter goes. I miscalculated it and had to trim a little from the inside. I will fix that later.
- Installed the Manual Transmission Wiring Harness. Make sure you place it so it doesn't bug you while your installing the transmission.
- Installed the Transmission and the Transfer case. (for now I've been using my manual t.case, since the electric t.case that came in the truck has a broken fork and gears and I needed the 4x4, lots of snow up here).
- This would be the time to put the driveshaft, but for me, I'm waiting to test the gears from the transmission in the garage before I go for a road test.
Now I'm waiting for my missing part, so I can bleed and test my clutch and do a road test. I was able to put it in gears while the transmission was on the floor, but since its behind the engine, i can't shift it into gears, I hope that's normal...
Soooooo I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but just one major hiccup. The only thing that I have found readily available is SCTX4 for tuning, and according to them, it needs a custom tune so before I go cutting holes in the floor because this is not plated like the pre-2000 trucks I need to know who what where when can do some sort of tune. The flex plate and the flywheel that came off my 4.6 were the exact same diameter for anyone wondering. Everything should work seamlessly if I can just figure out the computer portion. For scan was a bust and a waste of money although I can make keys at least. Anyone who’s watching this wanna chime in? Thank you. I’m sourcing another automatic at this point.
they can do it. 5 star tuning that is. My last thing I haven’t found was how I’m going to send speed signal out. The electric transfer case has a closed oss port and the m5 has nothing I can drop a vss into. Should I use the manual t case, and find a higher resolution oss to match the vss? I’ve looked everywhere and can’t seem to source an exact solution.
they can do it. 5 star tuning that is. My last thing I haven’t found was how I’m going to send speed signal out. The electric transfer case has a closed oss port and the m5 has nothing I can drop a vss into. Should I use the manual t case, and find a higher resolution oss to match the vss? I’ve looked everywhere and can’t seem to source an exact solution.
I did ask for a baseline pump gas tune, but also asked for an optimized for 91 along with a return to stock w/auto just in case. Made sense for me. I’m guessing the baseline factory tune is garbage but works? lol. Hoping for good luck. Finishing the mechanical part this weekend. Truck needs to get out of my garage!
I juat run the 87 econ tune, the 87 performance had shift points too late for my likes. They are raised a bit anyway on the econ one. Apparently the 87 versus the 91+ was only good for 5-7hp more, meh...I saved the cash for beers.
Well, hard to explain how it drives tuned. Acceleration is smoother and easier. Guessing timing advance comes in way sooner, torque management removed, P.E. changed, fueling cleaned up. Basic stuff, peak power is hair better 10-15rw maybe but the average power is far better from say 2500-4500...all on 87RUG
Should have been delivered this way instead of the flaccid stock tune and 200rwhp of fury. I tune anything I can as there is always power left. GM's 8.1 tune is really bad, no P.E. stock!
Well, hard to explain how it drives tuned. Acceleration is smoother and easier. Guessing timing advance comes in way sooner, torque management removed, P.E. changed, fueling cleaned up. Basic stuff, peak power is hair better 10-15rw maybe but the average power is far better from say 2500-4500...all on 87RUG
Should have been delivered this way instead of the flaccid stock tune and 200rwhp of fury. I tune anything I can as there is always power left. GM's 8.1 tune is really bad, no P.E. stock!
Proving..
Originally Posted by Hit Man X;[url=tel:21770278
21770278[/url]]I juat run the 87 econ tune, the 87 performance had shift points too late for my likes. They are raised a bit anyway on the econ one. Apparently the 87 versus the 91+ was only good for 5-7hp more, meh...I saved the cash for beers.
Well, hard to explain how it drives tuned. Acceleration is smoother and easier. Guessing timing advance comes in way sooner, torque management removed, P.E. changed, fueling cleaned up. Basic stuff, peak power is hair better 10-15rw maybe but the average power is far better from say 2500-4500...all on 87RUG
Should have been delivered this way instead of the flaccid stock tune and 200rwhp of fury. I tune anything I can as there is always power left. GM's 8.1 tune is really bad, no P.E. stock!
Well, hard to explain how it drives tuned. Acceleration is smoother and easier. Guessing timing advance comes in way sooner, torque management removed, P.E. changed, fueling cleaned up. Basic stuff, peak power is hair better 10-15rw maybe but the average power is far better from say 2500-4500...all on 87RUG
Should have been delivered this way instead of the flaccid stock tune and 200rwhp of fury. I tune anything I can as there is always power left. GM's 8.1 tune is really bad, no P.E. stock!
I have road driven “Goldilocks” and shall I say I’m in heaven. Few things to mention. I do not care for the lighter flywheel from the 4.6 on this. Takes forever to come down so I just engage clutch smoothly and slowly to return the revs. It’s also wonky if you feather it and it catches a lope due to the lack of weight. Even had it do it with the heater/defroster on one morning. So for anyone in a bind it works; just not long term. The clutch is okay for daily lighter work but won’t hold on extreme grades and I had it slip once up a short grade in third the other day.
Speedometer: you can wire OSS into the original vss wires! But I’m having issues with it being off even with the tuner on the lowest revolutions setting by about 9 mph and it flutters over 35 on the speedo. DUNNO WHY. Maybe I need to flip them to the opposite sides. Or get a new one..🤷🏻
Bracket: the bracket for the exhaust crossover is different! The mount location is about three inches back. You’ll require that.
DTR: I’ve plugged in the range selector and set to neutral and tied down the parking set switch in the column. This allows starting. Don’t have the clutch switch to wire in yet-at a later date perhaps. All that’s really left is illuminating the 4x4 light on the dash from the transfer case but I may get stuck swapping that out it sounds a tad sloppy for some reason..I hear a tap when I apply torque. Shifting it back n forth with it in gear underneath felt metallic in there.. dunno why. 🤦🏻♂️
Hope this assists others and will update as I go. Thanks!
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