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There is a Tool with rubber on the center part that expands when you tighten it up. First time that happened to me I fiddled around for an hour trying to make something similar out of stuff laying around the garage. In the end, I just pulled the oil rail off the head. That gives you access to the top of the tube and you can pull it out with a pair of needle nose ViceGrips.
Pulling the oil rail there are no gaskets. Upon reassembling blow out the small holes that the screws go into. Also torque in the proper sequence and torque spec.
These stand pipes don't look like the ones I've seen on this page ,look like they are 2 separate sections . The bottom section has three grooves at the top just below the O-ring , they don't slide into each other like the new ones . well almost got the drivers side done. Torque wrench needs new batteries. Also old standpipes and dummy plugs were 1/2 square and not 10mm hex.
Last edited by Mich6.0; Dec 30, 2018 at 05:04 PM.
Reason: adding info
Here is my afordable DIY lower stand pipe puller parts. The two aluminum parts are just some aluminum spacers.
You can make them out of anything that works. I just happened to have some non-flange rivnuts on hand. Pipe would work also.
You stick it down into the tube and tighten the thumb screw and pull. The 1.5" section of rubber hose expands outwards and will grab the
inside of the tube and you just pull. If I did my math correctly that hose will give you almost 2 sq/in of contact area and add to that the force
and you have a bit of gripping power to pull it out. I have never had one I could not remove with that tool. The new truck was a bit stuck
and the tool worked nicely. The reason I picked aluminum as the spacer is it won't scratch the steel of the stand pipe. You want a rubber
hose that is very snug on the 1/4 #20 cap screw so it does not slide around. I used some heavy wall gas fuel line. Should be 3/8" I think.
When you go shopping look for some that are not the shiny slick rubber.
Thanks guys got it our removed the oil rail, still had to get a pry bar to pop it out and now doing the passenger side what a treat, really would like to get my hands on the engineer who designed the compartment. That box that sits right beside the valve cover could have been an inch farther away, it would make the job easier. Got the valve cover off and a new surprise, need to get a torx-allen wrench to remove two bolts out to remove the bottom section of the stand pipe ,all stand pipes and dummy plugs had 1/2 square hole to remove.
You can use this ratcheting 1/4 drive wrench and a torx bit in a pinch. Just DO NOT drop the bit. They are sold at most auto parts stores including Advance for about 7 bux. Or a standard 1/4" box wrench and the bit would work but takes longer of course.
You can use this ratcheting 1/4 drive wrench and a torx bit in a pinch. Just DO NOT drop the bit. They are sold at most auto parts stores including Advance for about 7 bux. Or a standard 1/4" box wrench and the bit would work but takes longer of course.
I use 1/4" ratchet wrench and torx bit and some plastic shim so it doesn't fall down, but I had an odd problem. The 1/4" ratchet can "break" the torque. But after awhile, it just keeps turning the bolt back and forth, since the bolt is loose enough to over come the ratchet's spring.
However, my finger just can't turn the smooth surface round head of the bolt. It's a between thing.
I think I have the hand squeeze one to turn (like a pliers) , but at that point, my head wasn't working, and I forgot that tool.
