What would you do?
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What would you do?
Take into consideration you have $100 in your account. 2005 f250 6.0
You have 3 bad injectors, 1 known mechanical failure and 2 seem to be stiction ( miss when cold, better when warmed up).
Would you wait, and save up to replace all 3 on the same side or all 4 even if it meant waiting a few months and you needed the truck for things around the yard.
Or after throwing in some archoil, the 2 performed better and you're still left with the 1 mechanical failure injector. Would you replace the bad one and continue on with your day hoping you don't have another instant failure...
Remember this isn't a "I got plenty of money and time to do what I want and throw head studs at it while I'm in there situation" lol thanks
You have 3 bad injectors, 1 known mechanical failure and 2 seem to be stiction ( miss when cold, better when warmed up).
Would you wait, and save up to replace all 3 on the same side or all 4 even if it meant waiting a few months and you needed the truck for things around the yard.
Or after throwing in some archoil, the 2 performed better and you're still left with the 1 mechanical failure injector. Would you replace the bad one and continue on with your day hoping you don't have another instant failure...
Remember this isn't a "I got plenty of money and time to do what I want and throw head studs at it while I'm in there situation" lol thanks
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Joined: Dec 2014
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From: Jersey Shore
If you need the truck running, replace the mechanical failed injector. I ran for about 2 years with Archoil before #5 really needed to be changed. But you'll have to save up for a Ford injector or one of the ones made by the company that originally made the injectors.
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From: Houston, Texas
If you need the truck running, replace the mechanical failed injector. I ran for about 2 years with Archoil before #5 really needed to be changed. But you'll have to save up for a Ford injector or one of the ones made by the company that originally made the injectors.
I'd do what jack suggested and replace the mechanically failed injector. As long as the other two are running, just replace the one that is for sure dead.
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Thanks for your input. Yeah it's weird it idles perfect cold then that injector goes bad once warmed up. Then it works when it wants to. It will always fail under idle but around 2k rpm it works, then 3k rpm fails. Then wot it works...the archoil worked wonders!!! My truck would stumble for like 30-40 sec at start up now it only stumbles for like 5 sec... if that. Then smoothes out. No failed buzzed test. The only code I get is a contribution balance code for that same failing injector. No check engine. Since archoil didn't help that one I think it's safe to say it's done for.
I know people say to replace the whole side... and I'd love to never have to do it again. It's just not financially possible right now.
I know people say to replace the whole side... and I'd love to never have to do it again. It's just not financially possible right now.
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Joined: Aug 2015
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From: NW IA
You are not the first one to replace one or two at a time.
Sure, it's more work than replacing a spark plug(well at least on older gassers it is) but not everyone can do them all at once.
The kids truck has #6 that throws a code every so often, and it's the one in the engine that is not a Ford reman.
It's just a matter of time before it needs to come out, but with 170k miles on the originals I would probably tell him try to get 200k out of the others if you can.
Just do yourself a favor as Jack said, get a OEM reman
Sure, it's more work than replacing a spark plug(well at least on older gassers it is) but not everyone can do them all at once.
The kids truck has #6 that throws a code every so often, and it's the one in the engine that is not a Ford reman.
It's just a matter of time before it needs to come out, but with 170k miles on the originals I would probably tell him try to get 200k out of the others if you can.
Just do yourself a favor as Jack said, get a OEM reman
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: So. Jersey
Let me ask this. Who or how did you come to your diagnoses? Have you done a bubble test?
The reason I ask is if you have a failed pintle in one injector that is allowing combustion to enter the fuel rail at an extended idle, it will miss until it also effects the neighboring injectors by pushing exhaust to those too. Then when you rev it up it will seem to clear out.
Just a suggestion to atleast do a quick test to check for bubbles in the fuel resevoir. Let it idle until it acts up then do the bubble test by removing the upper fuel filter then crank the engine by using the starter trigger wire near the firewall on the passenger side of the engine bay. Watch in the resevoir for any bubbles.
But if you know for sure of the one bad injector then I'd replace just that one. If 3 on one side were definitely bad then I'd do all 4 and not worry about having to go back in that side for a long while. Same time update dummy plug & oil feed tube if never been done.
The reason I ask is if you have a failed pintle in one injector that is allowing combustion to enter the fuel rail at an extended idle, it will miss until it also effects the neighboring injectors by pushing exhaust to those too. Then when you rev it up it will seem to clear out.
Just a suggestion to atleast do a quick test to check for bubbles in the fuel resevoir. Let it idle until it acts up then do the bubble test by removing the upper fuel filter then crank the engine by using the starter trigger wire near the firewall on the passenger side of the engine bay. Watch in the resevoir for any bubbles.
But if you know for sure of the one bad injector then I'd replace just that one. If 3 on one side were definitely bad then I'd do all 4 and not worry about having to go back in that side for a long while. Same time update dummy plug & oil feed tube if never been done.
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Originally Posted by 87crewdually
Let me ask this. Who or how did you come to your diagnoses? Have you done a bubble test?
The reason I ask is if you have a failed pintle in one injector that is allowing combustion to enter the fuel rail at an extended idle, it will miss until it also effects the neighboring injectors by pushing exhaust to those too. Then when you rev it up it will seem to clear out.
Just a suggestion to atleast do a quick test to check for bubbles in the fuel resevoir. Let it idle until it acts up then do the bubble test by removing the upper fuel filter then crank the engine by using the starter trigger wire near the firewall on the passenger side of the engine bay. Watch in the resevoir for any bubbles.
But if you know for sure of the one bad injector then I'd replace just that one. If 3 on one side were definitely bad then I'd do all 4 and not worry about having to go back in that side for a long while. Same time update dummy plug & oil feed tube if never been done.
The reason I ask is if you have a failed pintle in one injector that is allowing combustion to enter the fuel rail at an extended idle, it will miss until it also effects the neighboring injectors by pushing exhaust to those too. Then when you rev it up it will seem to clear out.
Just a suggestion to atleast do a quick test to check for bubbles in the fuel resevoir. Let it idle until it acts up then do the bubble test by removing the upper fuel filter then crank the engine by using the starter trigger wire near the firewall on the passenger side of the engine bay. Watch in the resevoir for any bubbles.
But if you know for sure of the one bad injector then I'd replace just that one. If 3 on one side were definitely bad then I'd do all 4 and not worry about having to go back in that side for a long while. Same time update dummy plug & oil feed tube if never been done.
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Personally, I don't think replacing injectors is a big deal such that I'd replace all 4 just to not do it again. Yeah, the passenger side bolts are a pain, but no more painful than making the money to buy more injectors.
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Originally Posted by 87crewdually
Yeah he's not doing much until he saves up more.
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I like the idea of rebuild the injectors. I made a little injector holder and took one apart. However, looking up prices, some kits don't have the the nozzle assembly stick (inside). I noticed that has some wear mark on it.
Another issue is the two coils. I think those alone are $75 new.
So after everything, they added up quickly. It would be great of there is a total kit that is much less than a re-manufacturer costs. After all, when diy, you don't pay for the company, their boss' vacation, their time, their insurance, guaranty overhead, sale, support, etc.
Another thing is testing. It would be really nice to be able to bench test this. Once you can do it, buying a used set of injectors and mix and match components would produce a good sub set.
Another issue is the two coils. I think those alone are $75 new.
So after everything, they added up quickly. It would be great of there is a total kit that is much less than a re-manufacturer costs. After all, when diy, you don't pay for the company, their boss' vacation, their time, their insurance, guaranty overhead, sale, support, etc.
Another thing is testing. It would be really nice to be able to bench test this. Once you can do it, buying a used set of injectors and mix and match components would produce a good sub set.