When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Yesterday I replaced the temp sensor on my engine (360 FE). Previously, the gauge was either barely or not moving at all. I jumped the wire and got the gauge to go up when key was turned to the on position, with engine off, showing me that the gauge and wires were good.
So, assuming the sensor was bad, I replaced it. However, again, now the gauge needle barely goes up. It did go up slightly after quite a while of warming the engine. Interestingly, once engine is warm, if I turn key to on, needle goes up to where the temp was before I shut it off. In other words, the needle does not spike to the other end of the gauge even when I turn the key to on (without starting).
Wondering if there are any other ideas of what might be going on. Could it be a stuck thermostat keeping the coolant from getting hot enough, quickly? Truck runs good, otherwise...
Quick update...I'm wondering what may be going on. Once engine warms up, I know I'm getting a little circulation...top radiator hose is hot, bottom hose is not. Top of radiator and water is hot. I also have some heat. But, with radiator cap off, I see virtually no circulation...certainly not vigorous. Does anyone know what that could be? Water pump is not leaking and there are no bearing noises that I can hear from the pump.
But, with the lack of circulation and the temp sensor gauge barely moving, could it still be a bad water pump? I don't think it's the thermostat since the upper hose and top of radiator are getting hot.
I don't think so, but I will test it tomorrow. I think I have some flow since the upper hose gets hot as well as the top of the radiator. Plus, I have heat.
I've seen water pump impellers come loose on the shaft and sometimes some of the fins rot off and both conditions would slow the circulation down quite a bit. Do yourself a favor, get a new pump and thermostat and backflush the rad, heater core and motor. Overheating can cause way more expensive damage and usually at the worst possible time.
Thanks Butcher. I'm leaning towards doing all that as I'm restoring the truck anyway. Still, I'm puzzled why my temp sensor is not registering the heating up if I have low or no coolant circulation? Seems like if the engine's getting too hot, the sensor would register it on the gauge.
I know the wire and gauge are good and I just installed a new sensor yesterday. But, after starting, the gauge barely moves and after the engine is fully warmed up, it only goes up to a little above the coldest setting. I wonder if these older sensors only register when coolant is in the engine. In other words, if there's no coolant, would a coolant temp sensor be able to measure the ambient temperature of the engine?
You didn't use Teflon tape on the sender did you? That will make the sender not work, because the tape blocks/impedes the ground signal which the sender body gets from being threaded into the intake manifold or where ever.
Hi Meangreen. The unit I bought from O'Reilly's had teflon tape on it out of the box. I did not add any teflon tape. I was told this was correct procedure and that the threads on the unit would cut through the tape and make proper ground to the intake. To be honest, most of the tape came off as I tightened it and are bunched up at the surface. But, I wondered about that.
Yeah, I guess I could do that. But, the needle does go up eventually, just not that much. So, I believe it's grounded. Yes, the wire connects to the top very snugly.
Maybe it has a good radiator and a 160º-180º thermostat, and the engine really isn't getting warm enough to lift the needle any farther.
You can also try pulling the cluster, and cleaning the contact nuts for the temp gauge. Even simply loosening them a little and re-tightening might make for better contact.
how far did the gauge go up when you grounded the wire?
do you have a thermometer so you can check the actual temperature of the coolant?
I wouldn't go replacing anything yet based on your symptoms...my initial guess is that your thermostat is stuck open (or as mean stated, could be a thermostat with a lower temp value)
Hey dlburch...when I tested the gauge/wire by grounding, the needle went all the way up with ignition on. When I turn ignition on now with the new sensor, it only goes up to whatever it is registering for the temperature.
My only question about a possible stuck open thermostat is wouldn't I see flow in the radiator if that were the case? When I take cap off and observe, basically, if the coolant is moving, I can't really detect it from the cap opening. Maybe that's how it works? I don't know.
My only question about a possible stuck open thermostat is wouldn't I see flow in the radiator if that were the case? When I take cap off and observe, basically, if the coolant is moving, I can't really detect it from the cap opening. Maybe that's how it works? I don't know.Thoughts?
If there is no baffle below the cap's opening (if you can see the top of the tubes) you should see some movement of coolant after the engine has warmed assuming there are no congested tubes. You could try one of those temperature "guns" to see if temperatures are uniform across the core of the radiator.
An ohm meter should be able to tell you if there is a good connection between the body of the sensor and the engine.
When I turn ignition on now with the new sensor, it only goes up to whatever it is registering for the temperature.
That is exactly what it's supposed to do - in case you were expecting something different...
It's only newer vehicles which need to wow us with mostly needless gauge needle sweeps, as everything powers up.