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Getting ready to run a whole new wire harness on my ‘66....any pointers to make this easier? I’m getting ready to have an anxiety attack just looking at the wiring harness and it’s still in the box!
Which kit did you get? I've done a few, not all that complicated just time consuming. Spend time trying to get the layout you want before starting, Do not go with just crimping the lugs on, solder and marine grade shrink tube (kind with glue in it). Take your time!
Which kit did you get? I've done a few, not all that complicated just time consuming. Spend time trying to get the layout you want before starting, Do not go with just crimping the lugs on, solder and marine grade shrink tube (kind with glue in it). Take your time!
+1, Crimped lugs and splices give me an anxiety attack. Just start in the center at fuse box, lay it out/label, cut and solder, test, reassemble.
I used their kit on a '66 also - worked out well.
Be careful when installing fuses in their fusebox; some of the contacts for the fuses weren't perfectly aligned with the slots in the plastic box, and I ruined one before figuring out what was wrong. Luckily, there were plenty of slots extra, so no big deal in my simple truck. Biggest surprise for me was how to gather everything into bundles without making a complete mess - I got the bundles like I wanted, but the mess under the dash just got worse and worse...I also had a EFI computer and harness to add to the confusion, but I'd still like to start all over again!
My ignition switch (came with kit) was binding after installation, so I dug out the old original switch and it was also sticky - the problem was the shiny new bezel, not the switches.
I did mine with the seat removed - made a huge difference in the comfort level! They don't mention it in the kit, but make sure you have a good ground between the main instrument bezel guage cluster and the steel dash structure if you have the plastic "sweep" style main panel, and also a good heavy ground between cab and engine/frame somewhere.
I am glad to see this thread because I have purchase the 61/66 American Wire kit for my 66 rebuild. Just like everything that I have done on this truck this wiring job will be a first. So I have a couple of questions:
1. Do you have a pic of where you grounded the cab to the frame? I would not have thought that this would be necessary, however these are the things you learn on this forum.
2. Does anyone know of an article or book that would get some like me who is novice at this some directions on how to start. There are a lot of wires in this box.
thanks
rsh1966
Richard
The kit is definitely a time consuming install. It will require additional customization if you want to keep the stock instruments and stock alternator/regulator. Unless you have serious problems with the existing wiring, you may want to reconsider the kit. If the two "square" disconnects at the firewall are intact and no pins broken/loose/corroded, almost everything else can be repaired/replaced with a lot of time and effort saved. If the disconnects are giving you trouble, rewiring will save a lot of frustration later. Installing a later type alternator with internal regulator is quick, cheap, and easy (google Ford 3G alternator mod) and any new gauge is more reliable than a twitchy 50 year old one, and won't require a 5V regulator which is becoming difficult to find (at least one that lasts very long). But if all that stuff is working - heck, it may last another 50 years...
Looking at your pics of the gas pedal cable, you have a cab ground cable from cab to engine - bolted to firewall just above gas cable - so your engine ground does the rest. Won't hurt to
unbolt, clean to bare metal, and reattach. Like many others have said, bad grounds are the source of most mysterious problems.
The kit is a monster, no doubt - but each circuit by itself is not so bad.
Numerous years ago purchased couple individual sets of American Wire harnesses thru Mr. Mustang and very please with the quality and ease of installation. Same connectors and wire color codes, no crimping involved matter of remove the old and plug in the new.
I don't know how much crimping is involved but there's a really good thread on how to perform a correct wire crimp over at the H.A.M.B., what tools to use and other pro tips that might help you, check it out:
Want to add my two cents here as I'm in the middle of installing an AAW replacement harness on a '66 as well.
Just last night I had to fight an issue. The damn light switch wasn't build properly and the plastic bushing that engaged the riostatic gauge dimmer and dome switch wouldn't engage. Turns out the bushing had to be pressed back into the metal clip juuuuust right in order to engage. The 50 year old one didn't have that issue, how the hell did this one make it out the door with that problem?
I've also found that there is no ammeter and alternator wiring in this kit - something mentioned above. I've included a walk through of it on my YouTube channel here:
Thank you for the link Tedster9. : https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...orial.1127519/
This is a must-read for anyone who does automotive wiring and was not taught how to do it right. After decades of fixing, adding, and replacing stuff I learned today that I have been doing it WRONG!
Eric
