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Also make sure you run good quality and the right size of speaker wire, it will make a difference. The folks at Crutchfield can help with that. Good speakers + bad wire = disappointment.
Here are some photos of my idea. The grille covers are 3/16" hardwood ply with cloth covering to match the interior. The interior will all be the tan color when done, including the back of the cab. The speakers are 4X10 Kickers. The speaker baffles are also 3/16" hardwood ply, fastened to the forward edge with sheet metal screws and to the back side of the cab on a 1/2" angle steel strip with holes drilled and threaded for machine screws. I tack welded the metal to the cab back, since the cab was yet to be painted. In some photos you can see the small piece of plywood shaped and glued into the panel above the speaker to make the rear quarter panel "semi-closed" similar to a speaker cabinet. The inside of the quarters are well insulated with the dynamat and fiberglass batting.
Right speaker, rear quarter Left speaker, rear quarter Grille cover Left speaker baffle Left speaker baffle Upper left rear quarter with plywood block
I put 4" Kicker speakers in the corners like you mentioned. I used foam baffles from DE on the back side of the headliner to spread the load over a much larger area so hopefully they won't pull through. I think sound deadening is just as important as quality stereo components. The boom mat works great and doesn't need to cover every square inch to deaden a large panel. I only covered roughly 50%. Eliminating wind noise is a challenge. I'm planning to replace the door seals before I have it back on the road.
Just a FWIW on sound deadener: Lowes sell a product called "Peel and Seal, instant roof repair which seems substantially the same as Dynamat, except it doesn't lighten your wallet as much (though that does ease some of the seat-steering wheel interface ). UPC 95959 06251 Less than 20 bucks.
And it looks like - http://images.lowes.com/product/conv...5959062513.jpg
Cosmo
P.S. I've just used a bunch on our cars to quiet them down and kill tinny door syndrome. Works great.
P.P.S. If it's not as sticky as you'd like, hit it quick with a torch, and it gets REAL sticky. It's basically tar on a backing.
66v8baby, still looking at this option. Thanks for the picture. I'm liking what Resonateur did, but as I'm leaving the gas tank in the cab for now, it will be baffled quite a bit. Next winter I'm looking at removing the tank to the rear and I'll definitely use his idea placement. Never enough speakers!!
Here's another option. These speakers have been installed in this truck like this for years. Original headliner, too.
Chad
Issue with that is you have to get into the structure of the door if too close to door pocket. In my opinion ruining the doors. A bit further forward and they will clear the door structure. But, not a good place for speaker placement IMHO.
Issue with that is you have to get into the structure of the door if too close to door pocket. In my opinion ruining the doors. A bit further forward and they will clear the door structure. But, not a good place for speaker placement IMHO.
I've ridden in the truck for years and it's an older system but it sounds OK. The guy is probably getting close to 75 and doesn't crank the tunes very loud these days so I am betting he will live with it.
Interesting how my 1999 has the same approximate speaker placement for the door speakers.
I've ridden in the truck for years and it's an older system but it sounds OK. The guy is probably getting close to 75 and doesn't crank the tunes very loud these days so I am betting he will live with it.
Interesting how my 1999 has the same approximate speaker placement for the door speakers.
Chad
I should have said not a good place for speaker placement in a 61-66 Truck because of the door structure there.
Morning all. Thought I would give a quick update on the front speaker situation. Decided to go with a Centra-Pod unit from Select Increments with a pair of Rockford Fosgate P152 Punch speakers. The pod is for a Jeep, but, I think it works well and looks good. Really did not want to cut the doors. As far as the rear, still looking at options as I still don't like what I currently have. The front works and sounds great.
Morning all. Thought I would give a quick update on the front speaker situation. Decided to go with a Centra-Pod unit from Select Increments with a pair of Rockford Fosgate P152 Punch speakers. The pod is for a Jeep, but, I think it works well and looks good. Really did not want to cut the doors. As far as the rear, still looking at options as I still don't like what I currently have. The front works and sounds great.
I don’t blame you for the no cut policy. My truck didn’t even come with a radio, so I’m not sure I want to cut the dash or the door. That’s a sharp looking interior you have there. Three speed moved to the floor?
Thanks for the compliment. Yes the 3sp went to the floor. I like it better there. I have a line on a couple of 4 speed top loaders. The guy says one is from a 67 Cougar and one from a 68. Said both had 390 motors.
Thanks for the compliment. Yes the 3sp went to the floor. I like it better there. I have a line on a couple of 4 speed top loaders. The guy says one is from a 67 Cougar and one from a 68. Said both had 390 motors.
Back to the floor shifter, I may move mine to the floor so I was wondering what brand shifter you used? About 10 years ago, I used to see hurst shifters from one seller on EBay that weren’t priced bad at all.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
). UPC 95959 06251 Less than 20 bucks.
