I have a 1970 F100 with a 302/4bbl and c4 trans. I want to put a Pertronix ignition on it. Can anyone tell me which would be better; the Ignitor or the Ignitor II?

 

I've never personally used the higher numbered units, but in general they consider each step to be "better" due to features.
The spark should be slightly better from the II vs the I, and I've heard it's more forgiving of leaving the key ON by mistake. You're more likely to need a new coil with the II and III models, but if you're like most people doing an ignition conversion, you're changing the coils anyway.
Unless you want it more stock appearing with the original coil? The Ford factory coils were actually some of the best of the day, and many are still fully functional which is a phenomenal statement. But generally you can still get a more powerful spark from a new one that's properly matched to the trigger.

But any of them are an upgrade over points. Nothing is forever-reliable of course, but that includes points as well. With the Pertronix units though, the beauty is that you can keep your old points plate in the tool box and if the electronics ever fail you, even on the side of the road, you can put it back to stock with just a few hand tools and a few minutes and be back up and running again.

Is your wiring stock, with the resistor wire still in use? I'd have to re-read the literature to see if this gives the advantage to one or the other unit, but it may have some effect worth checking in to.

I guess I can't really answer your "best" question, but if it was me again I'd be getting the II or III units. If only just to try out. But I've never been disappointed with the several basic units I had. Heck, when I bought mine they didn't even have the II or II so I did not have to make a choice!

Paul

 

Pertronix.com has all the information. I've been using the original Ignitor and their coil for years and have been pleased.

 

Thank you!
I haven't had the truck long, so I haven't had a lot of time to go over it too much yet. Not sure about the resistor wire yet. However, I'm pretty certain the points are failing.
I do not have a stock coil, but expected to get another one with the pertronix unit anyway. I'm kind of leaning toward the I simply because it seems a lot of people are happy with them.
Thanks again for your time!

 

Thank you! I appreciate you taking time to reply. I'm leaning toward the original and their coil based on the fact that most everyone is satisfied with them.
Thanks again!

 

Pertronix II has the advantage of protection, for if you leave the key in 'run' too long.
If you don't use the Ford-style, and sized, 'lay-down coil', remember most of the others will need to be remounted upright to keep the oil from leaking out (eventually). They get too hot if not upright, and resistance isn't high enough. (Note the many accounts of coils not lasting long...)
Our plugs fire easy at .035" gap, and won't use more than maybe 16,000 volts. Don't be too impressed with racing coils.
Keep the 'pink wire' setup for key-on running.
Add a new wire from the I-post on the starter solenoid to the + post on the Coil. That just works when cranking. Cold-weather tip, there.

Experience from -20F ski-truck, to 116 degrees F in Nevada.

I've never had to replace a Pertronix unit. If you follow directions, they are one of the great modifications that saves money in the long run.

 

Thank you for your input!
I didn't realize there was any sort of protection for being left in run too long. I did know that its not good to do that though.

 

If you want a modern, no-oil, new coil that is fairly easy to mount, you might look into the mustang E-coil modification. It may give you a little better starting, lean-run*, and lower emissions. (Mine was actually cheaper than the N*PA best-quality stock coil, but that may be a local thing.)


Pertronix Ignitor II in my truck. I also did the 'big cap' mod. Could widen the gap, but I stay conservative at .038".


E-coil from a Mustang, BWD p-Series E92P. You need a new coil wire, with appropriate ends.


Mounted on the power steering bracket, with a piece of aluminum U-channel. I made a little connection box, mounted near the original coil location. (not shown)


Mounted on the power steering bracket, with a piece of aluminum U-channel. I left it long for some other computer stuff I'd like to include. There are through-bolts, about #10 in size to hold it to the channel. It is cooler here, and the aluminum may have some heat-sink effect.

I may post some updated pictures of the rest of the installation later. This gives you the gist of the modification. You can run full juice to the coil for racing.

*Comment: Try not to run your engine lean, but it happens during those 'bog' events others describe, so sometimes it will light those lean fires, and avoid washing the walls of oil.

 

..........

 

I run an Accel E-core coil on my '79 too, but wanted a standard shaped coil on the Corvair and (originally) the Bronco. So am running the Pertronix canister coil that's epoxy filled rather than oil filled.
They say they're for high vibration and heat environments, but I think they're doing them a disservice by not pushing them more for just about any application.

Paul

 

Is the Pertronix coil you mentioned one of their flame throwers?

 

I just purchased a new Pertronix 40611 Epoxy filled Flamethrower coil for my 1971 F250 300 4.9L. I want to mount the coil sideways in the original bracket. I am with you on just running the ignitor 1 or maybe the 2 if it works with the 40611 coil.

 

Yes, as old28 said, it's still a Flamethrower. As are most of their coils so named.
The #40111 is a 1.5ohm epoxy coil for use with a V8 engine and an Ignitor I. The #40611 old28 is using is a 3ohm coil rated for a 6-cylinder engine using 12v.

They are actually designed to run on a full 12v too, if your ignition system is so set up. But even though the Ignitor I also wants 12v, there is an amperage limit that is listed somewhere in the instructions, so you'd have to figure out if 12v to both is going to harm anything.
But using it with 12v to the Ignitor in the distributor, but your stock resistor wire to the coil should eliminate any doubt about that. Should it work out mathematically to be fine on full system voltage to both (without the stock resistor wire) there is the benefit of even more spark energy with more voltage.
Some of the others know how to figure all that out, but I'm just learning so don't want to muddy up the waters by saying for sure you can run 12v to the coil.

How is yours set up old28? Running the stock wiring?

Paul

PS: if you ever need to look that stuff up (part numbers and compatibility and such) their online catalog is easy to download and the coils start on page #60.

 

1TonBasecamp --- I have not installed my ignitor system yet, just getting all the parts as of right now. I will be using the same setup as Florida Chris used. Ignitor 1, 40611 Flamethrower Coil & relay. Full 12 volt from (+) terminal on the starter solenode to the relay box, pink resistor wire will trigger the relay box sending full 12 volt to the (+) coil terminal, black ignitor wire runs to the (-) coil terminal & red ignitor wire runs to the (+) coil terminal.

Nice thing is if the ignitor system fails you can reinstall the P&C and the pink resistor wire as you have not removed them.

 

Beginners, be advised the 'voltages' mentioned here are operating-voltages observed at the Coil + terminal, while the engine is idling.
Otherwise, at complete rest, with the key in run, even a resistor wire or ballast resistor circuit may show 13v or so.
That confused me at one point.

Epoxy filled coils may be overkill, and unusually expensive, but they have one less way to fail. Beyond the cool paint and sticker, you can mount them in any direction. Note, modern coils have this construction method, and quality. But if you are going to move the coil to a cooler spot, it goes in the area I mentioned above, and can be mounted upright. This keeps the coil wire short. So why spend the extra money? Spend it on something else, I think.
(I did, because I like to run a little lean on cruse, and care about emissions.)

Remember that while running, no good coil needs more than 10 volts. Dragsters ran just fine with it.
14.8 volts available once warmed up and with a charged battery is just overheating the coil, for bragging rights. (Yes, it should subside to 13.8 volts, or 13.4 when hot.)
This business about running the coil on 12v is mostly to sell stuff to people who don't get the resistance issue. Be fooled, ...not.