Yeah,there's just no power down there then.Someplace there's got to be a fuse and a relay to power the trans.You can always just follow the wire harness up from the trans until you find the fuses and relay and or fuseable link.Whatever they happened to have used.

Depending on what you find and if you don't like how it was done,you can always rig up your own fused relay circuit to feed that wire too.See what you have going on and if you can't find it or if their circuit just sucks,I can help you cap that off and wire up a devoted little fused relay circuit that powers the trans with the key in run if you need help doing so.
You really should at least find it first though,cus you don't know what else they put on the circuit either that still may require power too.

 

Finally getting a little time to work on this again Nice day but 4 days of rain coming in tonight Hope I can figure out the problem before then .
Here's what I've got, searched around for other fuses didn't find any, yes there are fusible links, but before going into them I checked power at the connector, I do have 12 volts on the 12+ volt pin that someone was nice enough to provide., what's next? The computer ?


UPDATE : I've seen many of times where you'll have full voltage under no load, decided to check for that . 3 volts under load and now I'm getting 4.5 volts under no load, so there's a bad connection somewhere . Think it's time to do that bypass you mentioned if you don't mind shooting it to me . Thanks .

 

Sounds like a bad fuseable link. Did you trace the line up in the wiring harness to find where the fuseable link is? You can replace that,or simply snip it (wherever it is.is it at the fender mounted solenoid?) and rather than replace it with another fuseable link,replace it with an inline fuse holder.Install a 20amp fuse (after your done making your connections) and connect the open end to your relay.Pin #30.
Run another line from ground and connect it to pin #85.
Run another line from a small terminal off the starter mounted solenoid (or anywhere else) that has 12V only when the key is in the forward position.Hook this to pin #86.
Lastly,hook the wire that goes down to the trans solenoid pack (12v wire that you found) to pin #87.

Now when you turn your truck on,your trans will be powered via it's own 12v circuit through the fuse and relay and the trans will only be powered when your truck is running. You can toss a spare fuse and a relay in the glove box and probably never need either for 20 years lol.
If you simply can't find the upper end of the original 12v wire/ fuseable link,you can always snip the line about a foot away from the connection at the trans. Cap off the end that goes upward so it can't ever short.Run a whole new wire directly from the trans side to your relay (pin 87).

Just about any auto store will have an inline fuse holder,standard 4 pin relay (if it has 5 that's ok too.you just wont use pin 87a) ,some wire and a relay pigtail (or you can just use spade connectors.this all i always use.) Don't forget some 14 awg wire if your running a new line,along with some wire ties to tie it to the trans harness along the way down to the trans.
When finished,apply grease all over the relay connectors and they'll remain corrosion free for years and years.

EDIT:
I forgot something here.something important lol. You wouldn't bypass the line down the solenoid pack.You would need to do this at the TECA (trans control unit) harness. That's what you would supply your devoted 12V too if you wanted to run your own circuit. I dunno how I forgot about the trans unit lol. That wouldn't of worked out too well if you tried that.
PIN 57 @ TECA harness (place a diode somewhere between this pin and the power relay too.I would place it right off pin #87 of the relay so the fuse,relay and diode are all together.I don't know the diode specs though,you'll need to research/rob one from a parts truck,look up part # replacement or whatnot and find a way to make a connection to it.spade connectors and or a basic fuse holder might work,without looking at for a while,not sure.probably. )

 

That's pretty much what I was thinking you would say I just wanted to confirm it first in case I was missing something. Yea, it's not easy tracing that wire ,goes into a loom and I lose it. As far as relays go the only one I've found I believe is the horn relay , can't find any others except the one I've added for the condenser fan for the a/c.
There is something I have no clue what it is , almost looks like a flash drive, has 3 pins.
I did see 3 fusible links together guess I'll check them to see if they're OK,, if they are I'll do the bypass. Thanks for the help , I'll let you know how it turns out. Not real sure when I'll get back to it again, depends on what this rain does .
Also found a fuel leak under there. There's about 1 foot of steel fuel line laying on top of the transmission vibration has rubbed a hole in it. Gotta fix that too..
Oh, should had told you, there really isn't any fenders on this thing, just a firewall

 

Just be sure to check them under load and or wiggling them because as you know,with no draw,they pass 12v ok.

 

That I do, all too well.

 

OK, let's back up here. I went to the parts store and got what I needed and was going to do the bypass tonight. When I got back under to splice the new wire in I realized I was on the wrong pin when I took my second reading, it's an orange wire with either a brown or black strip, the correct one was a red wire and I do have 12 volts on it. So, now what?

​​​​​​I was reading other threads about this and the issue of dirty connections came up a few times. There's some other connectors on the drivers side of the transmission. Is it possible That leaking fuel line has gotten fuel into those connections and is causing the problem? I'll have to investigate that asap and clean those connections and see what happens..

 

OK,, got the fuel leak fixed and connectors cleaned. Drove it up the road so I get the computer to get the codes, which the last pack didn't give any, but not sure that was an improvement..
I found another thread with the exact same codes I have, I'm ignoring 23 since I didn't have my foot on the pedal. So, did I get a bad pack or is my computer shot? The pack is an ebay special.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/770827-e40d-throwing-a-ton-of-codes.html

56- TOT reads -40 degrees Fahrenheit, or circuit open.

23- TPS out of self-test range

91- Shift solenoid 1 circuit failure.

92- Shift solenoid 2 circuit failure.

93- Coast clutch solenoid circuit failure.

94- Converter clutch solenoid circuit failure.

99- Electronic pressure control circuit failure.

Another update : Decided to go back and check all the connectors, I didn't have the one going to the pack all the way in cranked it up and the transmission worked!
Took for a spin, shifted good for about 2 miles then quit again. Got it back home, pulled that connector and put it back in, still nothing. Then, remembered I had checked the 3 plugs in the driver's side first, so when back and messed with them, it worked again!
Now I know about where the problem is, just got to pin it down. It's either one of those connectors or a wire I'm moving when I move the connectors.
Hopefully I'll find it soon, got to quit for today. I got lucky that the weatherman missed the forecast and the rain hadn't started yet, but it's about to, so don't know when I'll get back to it.

 

I just edited in a note about the TECA for a devoted 12v circuit.That was my bad.Just edited that for future searchers in case they decide they'll want to run their own 12v feed.

You've probably got a bad solenoid pack harness connector and or corroded pins down inside your pack,based on those codes.Click here:E40D: The Importance Of A Clean Trans Harness.



I wouldn't worry too much about the connections on the drivers side.It's more than likely when your wiggling the whole harness,your just vibrating the solenoid pack plug is all.Your issue is at this most important connection.

 

I don't know how it is on pick-ups since my 350 is a stick, but the connectors on the driver's side are part of the harness leading to the connector at the transmission, it like the transmission is nothing more than a long pigtail from the point on the drivers side to the transmission. That seems to be where it's at. But, I'll look closer whenever it quits raining and dries out again. Think it's going to rain for about 4 or 5 days. Wish I had more time this evening, but had a viewing to go to and then the rain came in.

 

Yeah,your correct.That's exactly how it is.All those codes point to a failed solenoid pack connector.It's not that all those wires couldn't be broken somewhere,in fact some people have claimed to have their harness rub on the frame where it goes up and chafe through the wires.The odds are very high it's going to be at the pass side plug but of course you could have breaks in the wires too.You can always pull the plug on the pass side and up at the TECA and ohm out each wire,while you have a helper wiggle the harness to see if you see your meter jump around on any of the wires.Your well on your way to figuring it out now though,once you get a good day,I'm sure you'll find the issue soon now.

I once had a solenoid pack with very corrosive pins down inside.The pins were all green and it went all the way down inside the pack.I had to replace the pack.That with a new repair harness and she was as right as rain......Not that you need any more of that by the sounds of things lol.

 

Thanks ,I'll keep you posted on the outcome of this, whenever that is .

 

After all this time I've finally got back on it again
I really think it is that plug under the driver's seat. I've put a jumper wire across it on the red wire only so far its good to go. Just got back from a test drive it's doing fine except for the major wreck I had . Forgot to lock the toolbox in the back drawer slid open and Sockets went everywhere. That took awhile to put back together.
I should know in a week or two if that solves the problem because before when I messed with that plug it would sometimes last a few days before going out again..keeping my fingers crossed..

 

I think I can mark this problem as solved. I've had no more issues with the transmission since I put the jumper wire in. Now ,it's on to a new problem, it's decided to be hard to start in the mornings right after fixing the transmission..
Oh well, since I don't know the history of this truck I was going to throw some things at it anyway. Picked up some injectors awhile back I haven't put in yet and I went ahead and got some glow plugs and a new controller oh and return fuel lines. If these don't fix it after I get them installed I may need to start a new thread and get some help if I can't find the solution. Wish me luck.