1993 F150 E4od won't go into gear when in "OD" but does if manually bumpshifting. - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

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1993 F150 E4od won't go into gear when in "OD" but does if manually bumpshifting.

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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

1993 F150 E4od won't go into gear when in "OD" but does if manually bumpshifting.

 
  #1  
Old 02-12-2019, 10:03 AM
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1993 F150 E4od won't go into gear when in "OD" but does if manually bumpshifting.

Alright seems whenever I've got everything working and I'm finally starting to work on the minor things like door weatherstripping, tailgate panels, AC vents, body moulding, ect... something big goes wrong to throw me a curveball.
Yesterday was nice and warm so I went for a cruise after work before heading home for the day. Well the first symptom of something wrong was I was cruising around 55 and decided to open it up so I stomped it, when I did that the truck jerked like it would if you had it in Neutral revved the engine and dumped it in Drive, so I let off the throttle the trans went back into OD and all was well, when I went to repeat the incident the trans went to drop into 3rd and I just started coasting, I let off the throttle and back into OD it went and power resumed.

I got to a stoplight where I had to turn, when I slowed fir the intersection and went to accelerate away the engine just free revved again, I manually shifted down to 1st and the back up to 2nd and was able to make the last two miles home by keeping it in 2nd till around 50 then shifting to OD and skipping 3rd. About a block from my house I once again attempted to repeat the problem, in Drive the engine just free revved then in 1st and second the truck rolled VERY slowly while the revs stayed way up.
When I got in my driveway I could get it to reverse, drive in 1st, and 2nd, and in Drive it would free rev the "catch" and start rolling then free rev again.

I checked the ATF fluid looked a little low and added a quart but still no dice.

Anything I should try?
 
  #2  
Old 02-12-2019, 10:56 AM
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With all the variables that could be involved, I suggest you run diagnostic codes before going any further. If you need help on doing this let us know and we can help you or what codes you pulled if you do. The E4OD is computer controlled so the diagnostics should give a starting point. Sandy
 
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Old 02-12-2019, 11:28 AM
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I know you checked the fluid level but those symptoms sound like low fluid pressure in the transmission. I have always used Mercon for my Ford automatic transmissions and Type F for my older ones that call for it.

I would double check the fluid level and research the that ATF is fine.

I have a 76 with a C6 and it leaks and when it is low it does that, if you slowly give it gas when it falls out of gear it will kick back in when it builds enough pressure in the transmission pump. But once the fluid level is right no issues.

Hope this helps!
 
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Old 02-12-2019, 12:19 PM
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I just double checked the levels all good. It does have a kinda burgundy tint though not the usual red kinda reddish with some brown.

I ran a KOER test and KOEO test heres the results.

ER is 311 and 411

EO is 111

According to my Chilton Book 311 is Thermactor Air System Inoperative (which has been a code for a while), 411 is Cannot Control RPM During KOER Low RPM Check again I've gotten this code before, 111 is System Pass.

Nothing related to the trans.

 
  #5  
Old 02-12-2019, 12:57 PM
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Bad range sensor (MLPS). Replace it with a motorcraft only.
Chock the wheels,set the e-brake and shift to neutral.
Disconnect the harness and remove the bolts holding the sensor on.
Remove the center shift linkage bolt.
Remove the sensor and install the new one.Line up the marks as shown.
Install the two bolts along with the center nut.
Install the wire harness on the new sensor.

 
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Old 02-12-2019, 01:05 PM
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With the lack of codes the above suggestion would be my first guess. Sandy
 
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Old 02-12-2019, 02:08 PM
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I disagree with all the posts above. You have a failed overdrive one way clutch. When you put the shifter in 1 or 2 it engages the coast clutch. This will hold the element the overdrive one way is supposed to hold so that trans will work. With the shifter in OD the coast clutch is off and the failed one way can't transmit torque.

After you've tried all the other suggestions and it still doesn't work. pull the trans out and rebuild it. Replace the OD one way while you're in there.
 
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Old 02-12-2019, 02:42 PM
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[QUOTE=Mark Kovalsky;18478563]I disagree with all the posts above. You have a failed overdrive one way clutch. When you put the shifter in 1 or 2 it engages the coast clutch. This will hold the element the overdrive one way is supposed to hold so that trans will work. With the shifter in OD the coast clutch is off and the failed one way can't transmit torque.

This is going in my E4OD file. Thanks Mark.
 
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Old 02-12-2019, 04:24 PM
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I've had a new (but auto parts store brand) MLPS cause the same issue,just after a fresh reman in my chip truck.That's when I learned to only go with motorcraft when it comes to sensors.
My D position did work again after a few mins.What happens when you cancel OD mega cab? Do you have forward in D position again?

Here's a test you can do..........



That's a snapshot from a PDF.For some reason I couldn't copy/paste it.It's not written by me,it's written by Gil Younger, President and founder of TransGo.
 
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Old 02-14-2019, 04:20 PM
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Ok so I finally got around to testing the truck again, if I cancel out OD I get forward drive, I found a Motorcraft MLPS Range Sensor on eBay for 40 I'll be going that route if you guys think it's that, the local Ford Parts Dept. Has it for a hundred.
 
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Old 02-14-2019, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 1994FordF-350MegaCab View Post
Ok so I finally got around to testing the truck again, if I cancel out OD I get forward drive, I found a Motorcraft MLPS Range Sensor on eBay for 40 I'll be going that route if you guys think it's that, the local Ford Parts Dept. Has it for a hundred.
Since it's easy to change and only $100 (it's only money) give it a try. When it doesn't fix it, and it won't fix it, come back here and read my original reply in this thread. The answer is there.
 
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Old 02-14-2019, 05:23 PM
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Ok, 1 I don't have the skills to rebuild a transmission and 2 I ain't got 3 grand to get a new one put in or have it rebuilt.
 
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Old 02-14-2019, 05:28 PM
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Then you're not getting this fixed. I'm sorry, but all the wishing in the world isn't going to change reality. This transmission won't work correctly again without a rebuild.
 
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Old 02-14-2019, 06:28 PM
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I did the test detailed in the pdf above, I forgot to do the stall test but anyways everything did EXACTLY what it was supposed to, none of the signs of trouble detailed above.
Also it's good and fine to tell somebody to just rebuild a transmission when you're not doing the work or paying for it, after all if I'd ends up being something else at least you didn't waste any time or money!
 
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Old 02-14-2019, 07:22 PM
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Then don't rebuild the transmission. It doesn't matter to me.

Some people know how this system works, and some people suggest items to check or replace just by guessing, usually because they know the name of that part. Even though it is impossible for that particular part to cause the problem. But you want to believe it so badly.

I'm going to stop inserting reality into your dream. Good luck with this, you're going to need it.
 

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