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Tranny help!

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Old Nov 30, 2018 | 12:23 PM
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Tranny help!

So I have an issue with I think could be the input shaft bearing or throw out bearing or something cuz you never the clutches in neutral truck on I hear it making noises that aren't normal and it vibrates pretty bad when going down the road which I know could be multiple things even as far as the tire's not being balance butt is something as well as in the tranny or almost want to say it's whining but it's hard to describe but I put my ear to the shifter and it sounds like a whining noise that's being around in there for sure so also my tranny leaks between the bellhousing and transmission itself and also between tranny and transfer case overhaul kit or something but I just need to know if my tranny or bearing is going out or whatever it vibratez bad when releasing the clutch when first moving but seems to quite down when clutch is disengage
​​I live in rural area data is hit an miss thanjs
 
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Old Nov 30, 2018 | 07:35 PM
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Could be the syncronizers!

So if don't know what Trans you have but for a few years they had a big problem with syncronizers going bad. I'm have to have mine replaced and my truck is making the same sounds as yours . So may also want to look at them!
 
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Old Nov 30, 2018 | 07:39 PM
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I believe it's the factory which was t19 Borg and Warner 4 speed ? It really I think freaks out whenever it's in four-wheel drive I can hear it whining really bad and worse then
 
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Old Nov 30, 2018 | 10:27 PM
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You are going to quickly wear out your welcome here with posts like this. Take time, collect your thoughts, use punctuation, then read the post beginning to end and see if it makes sense.

On to what little information I was able to get from your post. You are asking what is wrong with the transmission and don't even know what trans you have. Then dismiss all the suggestions given to help you narrow down what could be making noise from a previous thread by saying "you think it's from the transmission." If you would take the suggestions given you could actually narrow things down and have some chance at figuring it out.

The transmissions in these trucks are tough. It is far more likely that you have issues somewhere else in the drivetrain.

Lastly, you need to do a lot more reading up on these trucks if you want to be proficient in fixing them. Research costs almost nothing, isn't hard, and will pay off in the long run. Becoming familiar with issues others have or improvements they made will only help you in the future when you have similar issues.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2018 | 10:30 PM
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Okay first off I did tell you what transmission was in the truck I said t19 if you would have read secondly I'm not that good with punctuation so no one asked you to reply to my post it would be nice though so don't be coming in to my post and being rude and telling me that I need to do research when I have stayed up many nights just to research and my clutch actually took a s*** or something has it started scraping and now it's stuck in gear thanks
 
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Old Dec 1, 2018 | 07:13 PM
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From: Janesville
Lets start here...
What year and model truck? What engine? I think T19's were used from around '83 to '87 with 6.9 idi's in F250/350
Get someone to press the clutch in while you look under the truck to see if the slave cylinder moves the clutch fork. Does the fork move? How much?
Does the the noise seem loudest at transfer case, or at the transmission, or at the bell housing?
 

Last edited by PhilD13; Dec 1, 2018 at 09:47 PM. Reason: correction
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Old Dec 2, 2018 | 07:41 PM
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It's a 1985 6.9 diesel everything is original as far as I know not sure what went but to answer your question about the slave i stuck a bar between the seat an pedal an when I blead the clutch it moved but as of now I went start it in gear an something was scraping Im assuming bellhousing tranny area? I think it's the tranny an/or transfer case area that sounded like it was kinda growling prior to it scraping. As of now it sits stuck in 3rd gear cause I've been sick Ill take a look at it when Im better I have a spare clutch pad but the plate has one of the fingers slightly bent from a clutch fork being put in wrong but it's never been used and again thank you for all advice
 
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Old Dec 3, 2018 | 06:20 PM
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Clutch repair for the transmission is a regular maintenance item, I rebuilt all of that when I got my truck and repaired it again last year, so I got 7-8 years of good service off a set.

It's unlikely that the transmission itself is bad, though without knowing the history I guess someone could have crashed all the gears for years and something broke idk..

But more likely it's due for a clutch kit, pilot and tob bearings, master / slave, maybe some universal joints, and clutch pedal travel rod adjustment.

Unfortunately a friction disk is unlikely to be of much use, when mine go out (previous owner, and post op on my recent replacement), the failure points were the sprags that hold the mass friction part (large heavy metal piece) to the clutch basket. These sprag springs break and centrifical force flings the broken tabs outward and grind the bell housing. Though it still drove, so it may be something else. When it happened, I opened up the inspection cover and wired the broken sprags to the clutch basket and drove it for a few weeks till I had time/money to open it up again, no problem, but didn't self center the friction parts and when driving would have to let out the clutch a second or third time until it lined up without vibration.. Also surprisingly I always thought my tob was bad, but it was fine, the spring fingers were bad and bent crookedly, so these springs and sprags do go bad.

Also surprisingly the clutch pad disk was perfect, tob okay, pilot okay. It was just the basket parts that wore.

There is an input shaft from the front of the transmission, while there I inspected it and noted very slight wear on one side. Possibly allowing the tob to skew a bit and cause uneven wear to the finger springs.

I unbolted the input shaft and rotated it 180 for a smooth surface and bolted it back into place. There was no gasket here, just steel on steel if I recall, so I used no gasket as well. Though now I have a (very slow) drip, and hope it will seal itself in time, if not no biggie, it's only a small amount getting by.

Pull the pilot with a hf 3jaw puller, forget about the stick and grease trick, use quality tob, replace clutch with:

complete kit (MU33-1A)
Pilot and tob included or upgrade

Replace master and slave if not done within the previous 10 years.

Adjust clutch rod at master outward under dash, kind of a pita, but get it where you like it best. Mine is adjusted to engage top of pedal travel, though enough left to hold the disk so it doesn't slip.

Transmission likes valveline synthetic 75-90 gear oil.

Look at u-joints for wear, don't smoke off brand joints. Use spicer (dana)

And check for out of round wheels by jacking the rear axle and putting it in drive.

(in 2wd - chained to a tree)

Best of luck.






​​​​​
 
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