I gotta 85 f250 6.9 my problem now is when it gets down the road the truck shakes violently not sure if I'm over thinking it but need some imput it kinda whines or makes a rubbing noise even sometimes when sitting if wheels are turned yesterday at one point barely moved the wheels in both directions (sitting). I know truck is old an wear is comes with it but I vaguely remember getting stuck a few weeks ago before I parked it to clean fuel system having to use 4x4 an I swear I heard abnormal noises when putting it in 4x4 a clunkish sound (I think) if I recall correctly I think that could have something to do with it. As well as the power steering pump leaks like hell an whines (gotta spare) an like any other older Ford I've had the bushings for the arm that connect to the time today that hangs off steering box look worn, whole time rod assembly I think could be worn (not sure) but I can twist it a little both ways (the one that hangs off the arm to the steering box. I did grease with x heavy duty all purpose lucas anything under carriage drivelines time rod an u joints doubt it's ever been done an put 80 90 in front an rear differential each took about a quart. Put about half court atf type v I n transfer case tranny fluid was full wasn't sure about changing it another thing is driving above 50 sounds like truck wants another gear it idles hi to me an it leaks I think where tranny an transfer case meet probably gasket? I'm no expert but I'm no ******* I'm learning so correct me if I'm wrong most I know I get off here or YouTube so anything helps. As of now my plan of attack was try an apply KISS like always maybe powerwash off as good as iican undercarriag an regrease start over? Jack ti rod ends up an try to tighten? Try an tighten arm off steer box too? Change pump I got 2 quarts of atf type f an Lucas stop leak. Get tires balance asap? I did dump a bunch green slime In driver tire I'm sure it could be a good part of it. I don't have any money at all to spend so working with what I have cause I've been out of work do to my truck being my source income. An the steering wheel moves up an down maybe 1/2 in or more if you do it purposely if anyone could point me in the right direction to go about doing that the guy I bought it from said he put the wheel in an ignition the ignition it like a slide forward to start an back for off setup I've never seen that before it sits on top instead of the side like normal any advice helps even to verify I'm over thinking it an not worry would be better I get told to drive it until it breaks motto buy if rather do a repair in a better setting than who knows where knowing my luck thanks

 

Welcome to the forum, lots of good folks here. First thing on here is to remember about punctuation and paragraphs; it makes it much easier for us to read when its spaced in several paragraphs instead of one tight one. Also easier to go back and reference info for diagnosis.

Start with the stupid simple stuff, like making sure all your tires are aired up and the rims are free of mud and ice that like to settle in. You mention your tires make a rubbing noise when turned; have somebody turn the wheel all the way each way while you watch to make sure if they do indeed rub. I had my driver's side rub against my running board when I would turn. Took a reciprocator and touched up the running board lol. Also, if your power steering pump leaks and whines, throw your spare on and make sure the ATF is full and the belt is tightend accordingly. If it ran out of ATF it could be damaged and slowly giving out.

If you can safely get both front wheels off the ground at the same time, that would be best. But even if you only do one at a time, it is still an accurate way to check and see whats tight and whats not. Grabbing the tire at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and moving it up and down will show the condition of the ball joints, while grabbing the tire at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock and moving it side to side will show the condition of the tie rods. Best with a helper so somebody can watch what the axle does, but if they're worn you'll know without looking. It also might be best to do this before greasing it, as the grease will tighten it up a bit, and give a "false" sign of being tighter than what it actually is. Block the rear wheels when jacking, and make sure truck is in park or first/reverse.

Also, what trans do you have? Best bet is to pressure wash the dirt and grime away and pinpoint where the leak is from. My tcase is dirty behind the trans but I washed it and drove for awhile and found it to be sweating from where the tcase halves meet and getting everywhere.

 

As stated above, start with the small things. Tie Rods are easy enough to check, and the above method will check them. But I will add, that you need to be aggressive when you pull on the tire to check for movement. I can assure you that you will not break it. The truck puts far more stress on those components than you can do with your hands. I bring this up because I have had techs come in to my shop asking me why I will not align the vehicles they bring me. I show them the play and they say, "don't do it so hard" and I tell them to get out of my shop.

The leaking in between the Transfer Case and Transmission is very concerning. That area should not be filling with fluid. There is a gasket there, but also seals on the output of the Transmission and the input end of the Transfer Case. So more than one thing has failed to cause this. And running thinks dry can cause super bad problems in a rapid way.

Vibration is a balance issue, unless the Transfer case is super dead. Other than that you are on the right track, just hitting the last big hill. The actual work it's self, which is the bit I hate. Good luck

 

As for needing another gear above 50, yes you have the 4 speed built for a 55mph highway limit, so to keep up with today's fast moving traffic, 35" tires or an overdrive transmission swap are required.
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Try tire size, 315/75 r16 and you'll find new appreciation for the gearing range and top speed. These trucks were designed to run large tires, IMHO.

also, the 'bunch of green slime' may be your vibration issue.

I'd take it off the rim clean it out and repair the tire/bead seat and valve stem, that green goop can definitely cause a wheel to go off balance.

Just be, but I don't even have my tires balanced, I mount my tires myself - 315/75 r16 ((new fancy metric way of saying) 35's) fit stock rim and wheel well.

No weight required in my experience, so long as it's a decent tire. Not had any vibration issues.