Did the break in last week, runs great. A few tips I learned, I saw where someone asked about rotators. The Edelbrock cam manual said to use their springs but the number they gave for the rotator springs were discontinued, I just used the standard springs and on initial startup bent all but 5 pushrods. Since I had a second motor I used the non rotator spring caps from it.
. I made a tool from 1 inch box channel, use a pry bar to compress the springs and a string tied around the valve stem to keep it from dropping. This was my first engine rebuild on anything over a twin cylinder. I tried to purchase most useful tools, it did seem like every time I purchased something for the engine, I would then need another part and so on. I tried my best to research everything in advance and seemed like I still wasnt prepared. I sure hope the second motor goes smoother.
. I am getting about 19 in of vacuum at idle and well over 22 at a fast idle. I had to take the electric choke module off the carb and smooth up the fast idle screw tip because it would stick and the idle wouldn't drop, that took awhile to figure out why even with all the screws turned out the idle was still really high.
I have
TMI pistons
cleaned up heads
new valves
Edelbrock springs
Edelbrock cam
Edelbrock timing set
Edelbrock intake
Holley 600cfm
2 inch riser
Still want to add an oil cooler

 

Were the pistons a flat top ? Did you check piston to valve clearance ? Spring retainer to top of guide clearance ? Did you check for a new pushrod length ? How much lifter preload do you have ? Something caused them to bend like that.

 

Just the rotators, everything else was good. It's fine after changing them out, Intake must have bent from excessive pressure since the exhaust valves weren't opening.

 

Put an edelbrock cam in my motor a couple years ago, wiped a couple lobes last fall. Got the "retrofit" kit from comp cams, which is actually not a "retrofit " kit, requires other parts and modifications. Long story short, same cam grind but roller and sounds like the pistons are hitting the valves now?

 

I moved your post to your engine thread. It is the same engine, right?

When you got your retro kit, it was just a roller kit, or was it the whole cam, rollers etc? Including pushrods and springs?

As suggested in post 2, you must check the piston to valve clearance before finally assembly. Doing the math to start, followed by a mockup using clay on top of the pistons.

There is no middle ground with piston to valve clearance. Once they hit, you're in the.... stuff.

Get your tools out....

 

No, it was only a cam and lifters, they said being a retro kit, required modified parts?
Had to get springs and 9 inch pushrods.
I also figured out why the piston/valves are hitting, the other cam was .510 exhaust and .485 intake, thus one is .510 both. I didn't do enough research I guess

 

The increased lift isn't what's making you run out of valve to piston. The cam has more duration, a different centerline on the lobe or both.