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Old Nov 26, 2018 | 09:00 AM
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oil

I'm getting a 300 straight six jasper engine.mine has lost compression in the front cylinder.ive been told to use oil with zddp.do I use this with every oil change
 
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Old Nov 26, 2018 | 10:33 AM
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Short answer - yes. These flat tappet engines prefer the added zinc content.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2018 | 10:43 AM
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Valvoline VR1. It comes in most any weight you would want.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2018 | 12:51 PM
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I run heavy duty diesel oil in my older trucks because I heard they have more zinc in them due to the higher compression ratios and rod bearing loads that Diesel engines have
 
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Old Nov 26, 2018 | 12:55 PM
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Rotella T4.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2018 | 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by mark a.
Valvoline VR1. It comes in most any weight you would want.
Also shouldn't be used if you want long term protection. The oil doesn't offer much for detergent. I would suggest a Diesel rated oil that isn't SN rated.

The Valvoline VR1 Racing and other racing oils not intended for passenger vehicles contain additional additives for increased horsepower and reduced friction on metal parts, provide extra wear protection for high compression/higher horsepower engines, and include fewer detergents than regular conventional motor oils.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2018 | 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by ford390gashog
Also shouldn't be used if you want long term protection. The oil doesn't offer much for detergent. I would suggest a Diesel rated oil that isn't SN rated.

The Valvoline VR1 Racing and other racing oils not intended for passenger vehicles contain additional additives for increased horsepower and reduced friction on metal parts, provide extra wear protection for high compression/higher horsepower engines, and include fewer detergents than regular conventional motor oils.
I've just never been a big fan of detergents, I don't even use it in small engines. It's his choice but I wouldn't believe VR1 would hurt anything long term in his engine. Point is he needs zinc in his oil. There is nothing wrong with Rotella,or any other diesel oil that I can think of off hand. I've used it and I even have some out in the shop. When it comes to the newer late model stuff though, I just put in it what the mfgr recommends.
I'm always buying up and using all the N.O.S. oils I can find for any of my engines that are flat tappet, non stock. I have cases on hand of old SE, SF but no detergent stuff. The new oils, including VR1 don't look or smell anything like the good old stuff.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2018 | 05:09 PM
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To save other forum members time, you may wish to use the search function, as this topic gets beaten to death almost once a week.

Long story short. 10W-40 conventional oil with additional ZDDP additive. Motorcraft FL1-A filter
 
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Old Nov 26, 2018 | 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by mark a.
I've just never been a big fan of detergents, I don't even use it in small engines. It's his choice but I wouldn't believe VR1 would hurt anything long term in his engine. Point is he needs zinc in his oil. There is nothing wrong with Rotella,or any other diesel oil that I can think of off hand. I've used it and I even have some out in the shop. When it comes to the newer late model stuff though, I just put in it what the mfgr recommends.
I'm always buying up and using all the N.O.S. oils I can find for any of my engines that are flat tappet, non stock. I have cases on hand of old SE, SF but no detergent stuff. The new oils, including VR1 don't look or smell anything like the good old stuff.
To clarify SE and SF are both detergent oils, running a non detergent oil like SA will cause issues. Valvoline does not recommend VR1 for on highway use as it offers no protection when it comes to deposits or piston scuffing. It's a race oil made for short OCI.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2018 | 06:38 PM
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Mobil 1. Even the (sold as European Formula) FS 0w-40 has 1,100 ppm ZDDP, 15w-50 has 1,300 ppm.

Their lowest still have 750ppm and their highest racing oil has 1,850ppm.

https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us/pvl/files/pdfs/mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide.pdf
 
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Old Nov 26, 2018 | 09:20 PM
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Old Nov 26, 2018 | 09:57 PM
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I second the use of only a motocraft fl-1a filter. I had a Napa gold (made by wix) with less than 500 miles on an oil change stop up and not bypass, starve the engine of oil and toast a 351 about a year ago
 
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Old Nov 27, 2018 | 05:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Mason R
I second the use of only a motocraft fl-1a filter. I had a Napa gold (made by wix) with less than 500 miles on an oil change stop up and not bypass, starve the engine of oil and toast a 351 about a year ago
Sounds like a sludge problem more than a better filter problem.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2018 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by ford390gashog
To clarify SE and SF are both detergent oils, running a non detergent oil like SA will cause issues. Valvoline does not recommend VR1 for on highway use as it offers no protection when it comes to deposits or piston scuffing. It's a race oil made for short OCI.
OMG ! your right. I never noticed that. Some Valvoline say detergent on the top of SE-SF, some don't ?
Early last summer I hit a jackpot at a estate sale, I got 2 cases of SE Cam2 20-50 for the $20 opening bid ! No one bid against me so I walked away with it.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2018 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by PA74F250


Sounds like a sludge problem more than a better filter problem.
it wasn't. The inside of the engine was fairly clean and when I cut the filter apart it wasn't full of sludge, just collapsed. I've heard a few other cases of this happening with the golds(to fine of a element). I'm not 100% sure what caused it but for virtually the same price you can get a motocraft at O'Reillys so why not get one?
 
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