When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I've got this 97 F-350 that is exactly the truck I want: crew cab, long bed, 4x4, diesel. The body's in really nice shape.
Except it's got almost 400k on it, has been neglected apparently, and every damned time I go to use it, either something new breaks or it just won't start. It could be running fine last night and won't start this morning. I'm getting really tired of spending my weekends fixing the truck instead of going somewhere in it.
I seem to be in this endless loop of problems cam position sensor - ICP - IPR - who knows. I think I've fixed something, it runs for a few days, then something else breaks. Feels like whack-a-mole. I have recently (in the past 1000 miles) replaced the CPS, ICP, and IPR and the ICP pigtail. Replacing the IPR made the truck run a lot better and have significantly more power, but then it stopped being willing to start again. Plugging it in for several hours makes no difference (yes, the block heater does work). Codes I'm getting currently are P1280 (ICP out of range low) and P0344 (CPS circuit intermittent).
When it does run, it has good power, but I have never been able to get it to not smoke blue to some extent. I think it's burning oil but not much; the level doesn't change. But I would like a truck that doesn't smoke. Also, there's at least one glow plug stuck in the head that I can't get out, so under ideal conditions I'm only operating on 7 glow plugs. The engine doesn't seem to have much blowby, and it makes good boost at WOT (~20 psi). Getting about 16 MPG.
I'm trying to decide what I should do: rebuild this Powerstroke engine, maybe swap in a lower-mile 7.3 engine, or swap in a Cummins 12-valve. I'm pretty mechanical and I think I could do a rebuild myself, but I would probably farm out a swap to a pro.
I know a Cummins swap is labor intensive, and I haven't had much luck finding a 12 valve locally. I've got one thing going for me, though: I can spend about as much money on this project as I feel like spending; it isn't really an issue (well, not the most important one, anyway). I've read that a professionally-done Cummins swap can cost $15k, but if that got me a reliable truck that would last me ten years, I'd go for it.
So what would you do if you were in my position? Assume this truck is everything you want, but you also want to make it reliable enough that you wouldn't hesitate to take the family to the mountains for a weekend.
Honestly I personally would run a compression test on the motor if the numbers are low I’d do a rebuild. If there good then personally I’d probably just pull the heads and get a valve job done get the glow plug removed. And upgrade valve springs. Also all this depends on what your power goals are with that kinda mileage I’d look at getting your injectors rebuilt or a new set. Stages ones would be a nice bump in power with a tuner added with custom tunes.
7.3 all the way. start from scratch with a pro done long block with appropriate upgrades. upgrade turbo ped, elect fuel pump and filter, oil cooler, up pipes...... list goes on. If you have the $$ to spend then do a 7.3 RIGHT!!
I would just rebuild that 7.3.IMHO, a rebuilt 7.3,done correctly,is evey bit as reliable as a Cummins.
You even stated it had 400k,imagine if it had been taken care of,regular oil changes and so forth.
500-700K?.
For the price of the Cummins swap,you could do a heck of a powerstroke.
Good luck.
Honestly I personally would run a compression test on the motor if the numbers are low I’d do a rebuild. If there good then personally I’d probably just pull the heads and get a valve job done get the glow plug removed. And upgrade valve springs. Also all this depends on what your power goals are with that kinda mileage I’d look at getting your injectors rebuilt or a new set. Stages ones would be a nice bump in power with a tuner added with custom tunes.
I've thought about doing a compression test, but I understand those are done via the glow plug holes, so I won't be able to get compression numbers on at least one cylinder, possibly more. I think the heads have got to come off regardless, and at that point you might as well do a lot of work.
I've got no power goals whatsoever. I previously had several IDIs, so even a stock 7.3 is more than powerful enough for me. Primary goals are reliability followed by fuel economy. I don't really tow to speak of; the heaviest thing I do tow is a 2500-lb pop-up camper.
7.3 all the way. start from scratch with a pro done long block with appropriate upgrades. upgrade turbo ped, elect fuel pump and filter, oil cooler, up pipes...... list goes on. If you have the $$ to spend then do a 7.3 RIGHT!!
Sounds good. Who would you buy from, if you were doing this?
Sensors are failing and maybe the HPOP is getting weak, does not sound like bottom end issue from how you describe it. Are the sensors you are using Motorcraft? Have any oil consumption? Run a compression test, do what you can with the stuck GP. Kroil is a great penetrant. Are your glow plugs ZD11s?
If you are 325-350+psi on the cylinders, I too would do a valve job and get on with life. Yes, I would pull the long block. Reseal bottom end and keep on trucking.
It is starting to drop into the 30s at night, are your batteries 850CCA or higher? How old is that starter? Cables good?
Beat injectors make it more difficult to start when cold too. 400k injectors are well past their service life.
If you really don’t have any power goals then I think I’d just do a rebuild upgrade minour thinks like valve springs. Rebuild turbo and do ebpv delete and have injectors rebuilt to stage 1s and find a 17 superduty hpop. And do Efuel will give u little extra power and be a very reliable setup for years to come. I know you said you didn’t have any power goals but I think the stage ones would be small enough bump that you’d be happy plus there same cost to have injectors rebuilt to stage 1s. But either way I’d definitely do efuel and the ebpv delete and rebuild on the turbo and a intercooler.
You replaced the whole engine because of a holed piston?
Well, when your broke down on the side of the road 1,200 miles from home and you find someone to help you then your better go with what they suggest. He said that after the disassembly and machine work I would almost be up there in cost of a Jasper at 5K. Plus it was a lot faster then waiting on a machine shop. They switched over all my stuff in my signature so what can I say??