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I've noticed lately that my 02 X has a shudder when slowing for a stop. Feels like the tail end of the drive shaft is moving side-to-side as the truck slows. I haven't been under to inspect yet, but plan on it asap. To my thinking it seems it might be the pinion nut is loose, or backed off. I had the pinion seal replaced awhile back, and for a time there I didn't notice the shudder/vibration.
Doesn't seem like it is getting worse, but it is enough to make me concerned. Is there a torque spec for this? I'm not afraid to crawl under it w/ my torque wrench and at least see if it is within spec, or if it is something I can fix.
I appreciate all the help guys, this place is a life saver!
The vibration is still present with the truck in neutral, coasting and my foot off the brake. Does not seem to increase in severity with brakes applied either, which lead me to thinking it might be the in the pinion/driveshaft area.
The vibration is still present with the truck in neutral, coasting and my foot off the brake. Does not seem to increase in severity with brakes applied either, which lead me to thinking it might be the in the pinion/driveshaft area.
Let me amend this statement by saying that the vibration is not apparent until the truck is below 10mph. This is with it in neutral and my foot off the brake, allowing it to coast down to that speed. I've done a little reading today and seems like there is no specific "torque" for these that I can find. Everything I've found is about setting the preload on the axle bearings, and not about the torque spec for the pinion nut itself. I think I'm just going to pull the D-shaft off it next off day and crawl under it with my torque wrench. Gonna set it for at least 50ft-lb and work up from there to see where it clicks at.
My next thought is universal joints? Unless there is something damaged in the rear axle.
I remember hearing about an issue like this, the TSB said something about pulling the front driveshaft yoke out of the transmission to clean and inspect it. I believe this was for an F150, something about old grease causing the yoke not to slide smoothly on the output shaft of the transmission. I never helped the guy do it so I don't know if it was legit. Figure I would throw that out there, may be that helps lead you to a solution.
Alright guys, I'm finally back around to solve this problem. And I've started by trying to replace the universal joints on this rig. None of the parts store supposed compatibles will work. I've tried pretty much every universal joint listed for this thing and cannot get one that will work at least for the rear shaft at the axle.
Where my issue arises is that all of the universals you can buy from a parts store will physically fit. You can get three out of the four bearing cap clips on, however, no matter what you do that fourth cap will not seat far enough to allow the clip to be installed. I've even taken the short section of the rear shaft to a tire shop to get them to try and find a u-joint that will fit, and thus far nothing is working. Truck has been down two days now as I try to work this out, and it's incredibly frustrating to not find a solution.
I've read that everyone uses the Spicer 1410, and this is the only joint I have not tried yet, as I had to special order it in from my local Orielly's. Could this be the holy grail I'm looking for? Or am I just wasting more time & money trying for a solution I can't seem to find?
Why you would use anything but a Spicer is beyond me but regardless, Using a pair of calipers measure the width with the caps on, If it isn’t 4.188 -4.19 then you either have a bearing that is stuck preventing it from fully seating or the wrong ujoint, Even a el cheapo parts store joint should measure correctly.
also, before you you removed the pinion flange you need to measure how far the nut is tightened on ( counting the threads works ) there is a crush sleeve that is used for the preload and it needs to be installed exactly the same as it was setup or bearing failure is eminient. The setup relies on a measured debth not a torque value.
Just as an update, seems like even the shop doing the work for me cannot find the proper u-joint. I even gave them the correct Spicer PN. They ordered that joint, and it won't fit still. You can get three of the joint cap clips on the joint, and not the fourth. I'm beginning to wonder if this driveshaft is out of something else, and that's why I can't find the proper joint.
Kind of lost now, and really *really* needing my truck.
Did you measure the joint you are trying to install and compare it to the joint you took out ?
Post a picture of the flange bore that the clip is not fitting in, by how much is it not fitting ?
if 3 of the clips fit then you have the correct ujoint because the ujoint and the flange is the same dimension across all the caps, ( with the exception of some quirky speciality units ) check the flange bores for damage. And measure across all 4 caps.
me thinks you damaged the yokes either in a press taking them apart or by beating on it with a hammer.
me thinks you damaged the yokes either in a press taking them apart or by beating on it with a hammer.
You took the words right out of my mouth. To me it seems like the yoke was slightly crushed on one side when the old u-joint was being pressed out. If that happened, the driveshaft might have to be rebalanced if there seems to be vibration coming from it after it gets reinstalled.
The yokes for sure are *not* damaged. I cannot post pics atm because my tire shop has the short section of the driveshaft. The ujoint can be installed in any configuration, and it does not matter where that last clip ends up..it will NOT FIT. I'd assumed the joints were right b/c they could be installed in any configuration in the yokes. I'm still in the state of figuring out just WTF I need to do here, and get it done.
I'll update tomorrow regardless, and provide pics if possible.
If you are measuring the yoke down to .001 of an inch to determine it isn’t damaged then you should also be able to measure the caps, cross and yokes to determine exactly what is out of wack.
Let me start off with correcting my previous post. The yokes weren't damaged when I dropped them off with the tire shop a few days ago. When I received them back today (still not fixed) I still didn't notice that I had a bent flange, and that it was bent bad enough to have a hairline crack running through it. I ended up having to track down a driveline shop nearby and bought a new flange with the proper Spicer 1410 U-joint.
Everything is back together and it definitely cut down on that shudder/vibration when accelerating or stopping. It's still present, but nowhere near as severe.
Now, onto the pics!
As you can see the flange is definitely bent. Either way, I got it put back together and I'm pretty happy.
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