Hey guys, happy thanksgiving! I've done all I can do in preparation for injectors and after 3.5 years of owning my CCSB I'm tired of it be so slow. I've never installed or removed injectors before. Any tips or recommendations is appreciated.

97 7.3L 185k miles
4:10 gears / 35" tires
"Built" E4OD/converter/cooler etc
Super Duty intercooler
Riffraff wheel / stock turbo, good condition
AFE air intake
Driven Diesel E fuel system
High flow fuel banjo bolts
3" DP / 4" exhaust/muffler
Terminator T500 HPOP
Gauges / makes 23PSI at redline currently at 6000ft elevation

I tow fairly heavy but nothing extreme. I do plan on upgrading the turbo in the future but I don't think I'll go T4 or anything. So maybe a 38R at most, I dunno?

Thank you in advance!

 

I have Rosewood stage 1s for the last 10 years and I like them with no problems. I towed with it all the time till I picked up a rollback and I plan on doing the same stage 1s when I put the new motor in it also ..
My dually has no problem hitting 35 psi if I want it to with a stock turbo and a ts 6 with good tunes.

 

I agree, you can't go wrong with stage 1's. You see what I pull with them, 18K, You get the 1's and you'll smile all the way to where ever your going! lol Very nice looking engine compartment!

 

Thanks guys, when you guys say stage 1's, are you referring to 160's specifically with 30% nozzles? Do you run with the chip on often with them? I'm not trying to smoke, just trying to go faster. I drive with my chip on "high" pretty much all the time now and its not nearly enough for what I want.

Do you think I'll need to do injector cups too at 185k miles? Ive had a couple other 7.3 guys say prob not...

 

160/0= stage 1
160/30% stage 1.5
160/80% stage 2
160/100% stage 2.5
Etc.
I'd go for the tried and true stage 1 if you are towing heavy, for fun/ towing I would go with a stage 2.

 

 

I tried the II's towing heavy, way to smoky and hot EGT's.

 

I run 99% of the time with mine on a 80 hp tow tune
The only time I switch it to a bigger tune is when some jack wagon acts a fool and I'll smoke them out
But I'm working on my anger Issues

 

a good tuner can dial back bigger injectors to almost stock power. 160/80s are the most recommended injector size on the 1999-2003 side. The biggest factor is by far is tuning when it comes to towing performance. The next biggest thing is air. If you already have an intercooler, you could get away with conservatively tuned 160/80s. Throw a bigger turbo on and some fuel mods (already done in this case also) and you start to unleash some major power for daily driving. With good tuning, you'd still be able to dial it back a bit and be able to tow with reasonable EGT and smoke.

I may be wrong about all of that, but I'm pretty confident 160/80s are the ticket for the OP's truck and what he wants. He already has all the supporting mods to handle them, except maybe bigger turbo for the best results. 160/0s will absolutely work for his truck and will be a decent power bump, but why not get so much more power on the table with the 80%? If you feel they are overkill, it's as simple as tuning them down a bit.

Another thing with bigger injectors is HOW they enlarge the nozzle holes. 30% and 100% flow nozzles are harder to tune accurately than 0% or 80%. I don't know the specifics, but basically, they "clean up and smooth out" the nozzle holes on a 0% to get a 30% nozzle. Same goes for 100% from a 80% nozzle. What makes the 80% easier to tune is they precisely drill out the nozzle holes to 80%, which makes them much more consistant. Tuners guess a lot less on fueling parameters when tuning for a 80% nozzle as opposed to a 30%.

gearhead tuning is a popular tuning choice again, now that a certain problem employee is finally gone.

1023 tuning is new on the block, but the 1999-2003 guys have been saying nothing but good things about them. They are quickly becoming a favorite and I will likely be buying some tunes from them soon for my '99.

as for tuning devices, the PHP Hydra is hands-down the most recommended device for any 7.3 powerstroke. It's the go-to tuning platform for most of the custom tune writers now. The TS chip will work as good as a hydra, but has to be sent in every time you want to switch tuning. You can just plug your computer into the hydra for easy tuning changes.

 

Thank you guys for the replies. It sounds to me like it's going to be between 30% and 80% is the tough call for me to make. I guess I'm going to do injector cups too. I've been running ELC coolant for almost 2 years now with no problems that I know of but since I'm there I might as well do the loctite 620 on the cups.

 

Lol, you must not hang around in here much.
My tuner does fine remotely tuning my 200% nozzles with my lil charger.

 

Why buy bigger nozzles and injectors if you have to tune them back? I've been playing this game for 12 years and if you'll read my signature you'll see what is so far my best set up. I don't pull my 5er 3 miles to the local camp grounds. I tow across country 10,000 miles every summer so I know all about towing real heavy.

 

Hey guys, I did a baseline dyno run of my truck. With the mods listed above it made 215/368 with chip off. With the TS-6 with unknown tunes set on high it made 282/462 at the the wheels on 35"x12.5's.

 

That's a very optimistic Dyno.

 

Well I dunno what dyno's you're used to but this is a Dynojet which is pretty much the industry standard in dyno's. These are SAE corrected numbers of course which are also the industry standard of comparison. I don't give a crap about the whole "uncorrected is real blah blah blah" talk. Everyone claims that some dyno's are "heartbreakers" but I've been on many of dyno's with many vehicles and they all read about about the same with 20hp or so as long as the correction factor is same then it's apples to apples.