So I posted some pics in the camper pulling thread, but wanted to post a separate one to get some advice on the setup for my new TT and ProPride hitch. You may, or may not, be able to tell in the pics, but the trailer is a little nose up with the hitch bar at the highest height and all 4 washers on the adjustment pin. Here are my numbers for a trip over the scales during our tow home (sorry I forgot to get a weight with the TT hitched, but no force on the W/D bars).





Hitched with 5.5" on W/D jacks:
truck front: 3500
truck rear: 4820
TT Axles: 6100

TT unhitched:
Truck front: 3580
Truck rear: 3900
TT: 6920

I would say that I am getting good W/D to the front axle, but there was a bit of "jerkiness" (feeling like the TT was pushing on the bumper of the truck going down the highway) which Sean at ProPride said could be due to too little tongue weight. I have since lowered the hitch bar by one hole and removed a washer from the adjustment pin. I have not had a chance to revisit the scales, plus I need to load the truck and trailer for a trip to get "real" rather than empty numbers. Regardless, I was wondering if some more experienced ProPride users could give input if you feel my adjustment to the hitch bar and washer will get me to a more level ride without jeopardizing my W/D. I am assuming that I may just need to crank on the W/D jacks a little more with the lower hitch bar. Thanks in advance for the feedback.

-Kevin

 

After making the adjustment is the TT level now?

 

I've been running the P3 14,000lb setup since early 2009. 4x4 Excursion and the trailer is a triaxle Weekend Warrior. The rig weighs in anywhere from 21,000 to 23,000 gross. Looks like your EX is 2WD. I can run without the bars cranked but i do tighten them up because it feels better when towing. I'm also running air bags in the back. The tongue weight is very important.....like with any setup. Since my rig is heavy, i bought a tongue scale so could get a proper reading.

The jerkiness is easily explained by the "cams" , which is part of the design. It could be, under braking, that your brakes on the trailer are not coming on. Test them while going downhill. Both conventionally and separately.

Hope it helps.

 

 

I have air bags on my 2WD but I rarely use them. My Ex seems to tow better with the rear down about 1 inch. I crank each WD jack 26 turns and that seems to do the trick. I am towing tomorrow with 4 people, firewood and 110 lbs of dogs so I may have to adjust the bags some.

My dealer hates the PP because the tractor can't move it. Next week the camper is going to the dealer, I will take off the PP and tow the 1 hr with basic WD. It gives me an excuse to clean the bearings and touch up the paint before its next trip in March.

Adjust your WD jacks until the front of the Ex feels right, you will get it after a few tows. Isn't the no sway awesome?! Sometimes I forget the camper is back there.

 

I measure the distance. To each his/her own.

I picked up one of these. Yeah, I know it's pricey, I've never had my TT in the shop, but if I have to I won't have to invest an hour to take off the P3 and another to put it on.

Once you get it dialed in, you will absolutely enjoy pulling your trailer.

 

I have gotten good at taking the PP off. the trick is wood and a jack. You take off the jacks and bracket under the gas tanks. that should free it to where the ball is the only thing holding the PP on. Use the jack and wood to support the trailer frame, raise the tongue jack and carefully release the ball latch and the unit comes down and slides right out. 15 - 20 minutes. Every 2 years I like to clean and lube it. I didn't do it enough a few years ago (have had the PP since 2010) when it was on my car hauler and the bearings rusted.

 

I've had my ProPride about five years now. It took a while to really dial in. Then I upgraded my springs and had to dial it in again. Sean at ProPride was a huge help. I had to take some washers out from the adjustment pin as well. It took me a while to get the adjustment right so the trailer pulls level and not nose up. I really set the springs high as I want to make sure the weight transfers to the front. I've had porpoising from not enough weight distributed to the front. Definitely no fun. Also, my tip is when you finally get your hitch jack springs dialed in, mark the jack height. I used a piece of colored electrical tape on the breaker bar and socket that I use for the over the top pins that go over the stinger. Set the socket and breaker bar down vertical next to the jack spring and mark it with the tape at the jack level. Then use your speed socket to crank the springs to the tape mark. Same way every time. You do have a speed socket right?

 

So I have done a couple more pulls this season and I think I need to dial in the ProPride a little more. I am experiencing a little "jerky" drive while on the interstate and based on what I am reading I think its due to the fact that my TT nose might be slightly above level. I started with the PP stinger up as far as it would go based on the measurements we took at the dealer from floor to frame when we first installed the hitch. I am thinking that this trailer might have an upward angle tot he frame and that fooled us. As mentioned above I did lower the stinger setup by one bolt hole, but I am thinking I should still go one more. I also had reduced the number of washers from 4 to 3. My question is if I lower the stinger by another bolt hole and put the 4th washer back in, do I risk adding more tongue weight back to the TV? I think I am really close to the 1000 max tongue weight. This leads to another question. How do you all measure the tongue weight with a PP? Do you install the stinger and use a tongue scale under the stinger where is roughly exits the truck, or do you weigh under the hitchbox, or under the hitchbox where the trailer ball is?


Here is a picture of the latest setup. Keep in mind the trailer is on a slight downhill slope and the truck is the other side of that slope, so this is what leads me to believe I should go down one more hole with the stinger setup.


P.S. I have new scale measurements from the adjusted setup mentioned above which I will post later as they are in the truck and I am in the office right now.

 

Don't go to low, the stinger can ground out (ask me how I know). Are the truck and trailer level when you look at it from a distance?

 

Also, I have found that I need to let the back of my Ex drop 1" or so or else the trailer feels squirrely, almost like the trailer is a slight bit tail heavy when level.

 

I still have the stinger assembled with the truck side having the bracing facing upward, so I don't think that one more bolt hole down will cause an issue, but I understand your warning. I am already pretty low with the 2WD and stock suspension (only mod is Roadmaster RAS). I do think that my trailer is still a little nose up on level ground that is why I am debating the adjustment. Main issue is that I don't have nice level ground to check without hitching the whole rig and towing to an open parking lot or somewhere other than the house and then it is not as easy to have the necessary tools to make adjustments :-(.

 

Excurvelle,

Do you know where you have your stinger set regarding which holes your bolts are in on the vertical shank? You are 2WD as well, so I am just curious. I know it is dependent upon the TT tongue height when level, but it would give me a better clue if I should lower mine or not, or just add washer for better W/D.

 

Where the stinger goes in the hitch I have mine turned upside down from yours. I have the stinger part sitting up from that and the top bolt is in the 4th hole and the bottom bolt is even at the base. I will post a picture later.

 

And how many washers do you have on the pivot pin?