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So, while I was replacing the shift solenoid pack in my '94 Bronco, I took a chunk out of the gasket underneath it. From what I've seen, it's one big gasket under the whole valvebody assembly. Is there any way I can drop the other sections of valvebodies and replace the gasket while the trans is in the truck? The YouTube videos I've seen show this being done on a bench, and it looks like the ***** are held in by the gasket....not sure if this is possible while still under the truck?
Any other ideas to repair the gasket without tearing into it further? Not sure if RTV will handle the pressure...?
The valve bodies can be removed and replaced with the trans in the truck. It's just hard to shoot a video like that.
************************************************** DO NOT USE RTV INSIDE OF A TRANSMISSION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !*************************************************
Did I make myself clear? That's a really, really, really bad idea. It's even a bad idea to use it on the pan gasket. Any small amount of RTV that gets loose inside the transmission can stick a valve and destroy the transmission. Don't do it.
Thank you both. I knew RTV would be bad news, which is why the Bronco is still sitting in the driveway with the pan off of it. I'll go ahead and drop everything and replace the gasket this week...
You can easily replace that gasket with the transmission in the truck. Take 2 of the 3 bolts off the small rear flat plate. Remove the other 2 valve bodies (I remove the front one first, then the rear most one.) Once you've got the front accumulator (?) body down, use one of the 2 bolts you removed from the small rear plate to hold up the front of the separator plate by screwing the bolt back up in one of the more centrally located holes where the body was bolted up. Then remove the rear valve body. You should now have the separator plate held up by the single front bolt you just put in place and a remaining rear one holding the flat plate. With a little care, you should be able to remove 1 bolt at a time, hold the plate in place and slide the new gasket in place, then put the bolt back up and then doing the other end. Then put your bodies back in place. As long as you don't allow the separator plate to drop, you won't disturb the check ***** that are on top of it. Put your pan back on and fill it up. Done. The gasket is cheap, too- as in less than $10 from the dealer.
Funny you post that now. I came across that video the other week, and it answered my questions perfectly.
I probably should have put some kind of shift kit in it...but with 200k on the clock, and the entire underside of the engine/trans dripping in fluid from who-knows-where, I imagine it's only a matter of time before I'm looking for a new drivetrain for it. In fact, I kinda hope so, as I would like to start building this thing into something fun...
I do have 2 concerns:
The gasket I bought for it doesn't exactly match up hole-for-hole with the old one. I did put it in and button it up because the "extra" holes in the gasket were at blank spots in the plate...so I'm hoping it won't effect anything.
Secondly, the electrical connector for the solenoid pack has broken clips and will not latch onto the connector from the transmission very well. I have a feeling it will vibrate loose and come undone while driving. The only way to get to it to fix it is to drop the trans. If I have to do that, a ZF5 is going back in it.
This is the gasket set I ordered: https://globaltransmissionparts.com/...set-1989-1995/
I forgot to stop and get trans fluid on my way home from work this morning, so the moment of truth will have to wait another day...
You can easily replace that gasket with the transmission in the truck. Take 2 of the 3 bolts off the small rear flat plate. Remove the other 2 valve bodies (I remove the front one first, then the rear most one.) Once you've got the front accumulator (?) body down, use one of the 2 bolts you removed from the small rear plate to hold up the front of the separator plate by screwing the bolt back up in one of the more centrally located holes where the body was bolted up. Then remove the rear valve body. You should now have the separator plate held up by the single front bolt you just put in place and a remaining rear one holding the flat plate. With a little care, you should be able to remove 1 bolt at a time, hold the plate in place and slide the new gasket in place, then put the bolt back up and then doing the other end. Then put your bodies back in place. As long as you don't allow the separator plate to drop, you won't disturb the check ***** that are on top of it. Put your pan back on and fill it up. Done. The gasket is cheap, too- as in less than $10 from the dealer.
Exactly how I did it! Thanks a bunch!
And stupid me...after looking at the picture I posted above, I realize I put the gear selector pin in the wrong notch on the piston!
Good thing I didn't fill it with fluid yet!
The gasket I bought for it doesn't exactly match up hole-for-hole with the old one. I did put it in and button it up because the "extra" holes in the gasket were at blank spots in the plate...so I'm hoping it won't effect anything.
It won't affect anything. A hole in the gasket where there isn't one in the separator plate isn't a problem. A hole in the separator plate where there isn't one in the gasket is a BIG problem.
You'll just unclip the harness so it can be brought down around to the drivers side.There you'll have lots of room to repair it.
Perfect! I'll probably order it later today. Knowing my luck, I'm gonna need it!
Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
It won't affect anything. A hole in the gasket where there isn't one in the separator plate isn't a problem. A hole in the separator plate where there isn't one in the gasket is a BIG problem.
The old gasket didn't come off in one complete piece. I held up what was left of it against the new one, and only noticed ONE hole that was different. Upon placing the new gasket on the separator plate is when I noticed several more. I think it's because the "extra" holes on the old gasket were camouflaged by the black grime that made the exposed areas of the separator plate the same black color as the old gasket. I bet they were there and I just didn't notice until I wiped down the plate.
Perfect! I'll probably order it later today. Knowing my luck, I'm gonna need it!
You'll need it for sure because if it doesn't lock,moisture will get down in there and corrode the pins inside the solenoid pack and then you'd also need to replace that.
This morning (32* and 15mph winds), I dropped the pan, dropped the main valvebody, moved the gear selector piston to the correct spot, and buttoned it back up. I'm off 'til Monday night, so I've got fluid to go in it tomorrow and hopefully get it moving again. They are calling for 12" of snow here this weekend...so time is limited. Once that is taken care of, it'll be time to replace the alternator (getting a 2.2amp parasitic draw on the battery...narrowed it down to the alt. I believe. It's also charging at 15.4V). IAC valve, tune-up parts, and Warn hubs, and hopefully she will be ready for the winter-beater role again...
Got it all buttoned back up, and it won't shift. I put it in D, and the trans is stuck in 3rd gear...OD on or off. Manually select 2nd or 1st, and it is stuck in 2nd gear. Won't shift.
Reverse works fine, although it tends to slam into gear (It did it before, just not as bad). The pinion bearing is shot and there is a lot of movement at the yoke, so that doesn't help much.
Does this sound like a solenoid pack issue (maybe I got a bad one....it was a reman unit)? A connection issue (the repair connector has not come yet)? Or a gasket blocking a hole issue?
