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Hello everyone, I feel like I checked everything..
97 7.3, fresh charged batteries, new starter, new positive/starter wire harness.
Back story:
I was driving it about 3 weeks ago and my starter cable jumped and burnt out the starter when I hit a big bump.
I promptly got it parked safely and waited until I could afford both parts at once..
I just replaced the starter last night with a brand new one from O'Reillys, same with cables..
Went to crank the truck.. No WTS light.. But cranks extremely strong and fast.
Checked fuses, swapped out 22 just to be safe on fuel bowl heater. Nothing.
Checked connection on battery (seemed to be an issue when it wouldn't come on prior) all good.
Checked connection on pcm wiring, seemed solid.. Smacked it it a little bit with just my hand to assure the bolt wasn't just loose. Nothing.
Tach moves with crank
Brand new fuel filter (about 50 miles prior to the starter)
Swapped relays with horn, no dice
Tried pretending like the light was burnt out and letting it sit on, no dice
Things I noticed, the fuel bowl was cold when I opened it up to check for sure, plugs on valve covers are all solid, tach moves, starter obviously works, batteries suck but hold enough to start if it would, fuel pump works based off noise and full fuel bowl, not low on fuel (almost entirely full tank I got before I parked it) only blown fuses were for trailer lights.. Prior to all of this,
Everything worked amazing prior to this (other than I had the clogged fuel filter I replaced)
Truck has 317k miles, new starter, new batter cables, new fuel filter, injectors and glow plugs about 15k ago, engine rebuilt same time, trans rebuilt 60k prior.
Im probably missing stuff I did already but any help is appreciated greatly.
Doc, usually no WTS light is no power to the PCM and or fuse #22 blown. I understand you replaced the fuse but it usually blows due a shorted fuel filter heater shorting inside the filter canister. Fuse #22 also powers the PCM so I would double check it as it may be blown again. Hitting a bump is a typical symptom when that heater element shorts out internal to the fuel bowl..
You can unplug the element on the canister, think it's the second connection from the top on drivers side. Replace the fuse again and see if you have the WTS light. Fuel filter heater does not actually heat the fuel but heats the fuel filter only.
Thank you for this, I have saved this and intend to have it for this and the future
Originally Posted by Hussler
Doc, usually no WTS light is no power to the PCM and or fuse #22 blown. I understand you replaced the fuse but it usually blows due a shorted fuel filter heater shorting inside the filter canister. Fuse #22 also powers the PCM so I would double check it as it may be blown again. Hitting a bump is a typical symptom when that heater element shorts out internal to the fuel bowl..
You can unplug the element on the canister, think it's the second connection from the top on drivers side. Replace the fuse again and see if you have the WTS light. Fuel filter heater does not actually heat the fuel but heats the fuel filter only.
So out of curiosity, I failed to Mention this prior.. The WTS light comes on and the fuel bowl is warm for a good while and then every now and then it does something like this.. But when it was doing that I was able to figure out the fuel filter itself was trash because I would clean it then everything was back to normal (short term side of the road/parking lot fix) .. Is that possible indication of the heater shorting or pcm more definitively?
I will try to disconnect the heater itself swap fuse again and see if the light comes on. From my research of Google prior to making this post.. I think I know which wire it is.. But I didn't replace fuse 22 with that in mind and just did it ***** nilly.
Is there any other dashlights or indication of pcm getting power without checking the actual power wire to the pcm?
My multimeter is currently lost in my other dead vehicle and want to avoid buying a new one if I can.
Sorry for all of the questions, fairly new into owning diesel.. My only prior experience with diesel is a military hmmwv. Which is fairly limited on the engine side.
Your fuel filter warmer is on it way out. It broke, but not enough to do it constantly. It’s bouncing around and shorting intermittently and when you pull the filter it temporarily fixes it.
im will to bet that if you pull the filter the soldering points that secure the heating element in place are broken
Just a FYI, it’s not a a fuel bow heater. It’s a fuel filter warmer.
Ever noticed the bottom of the filter is metal ? That so the heating element
can warm the filter to expand the gunk on the filter in order for fuel to flow better.
Your fuel filter warmer is on it way out. It broke, but not enough to do it constantly. It’s bouncing around and shorting intermittently and when you pull the filter it temporarily fixes it.
im will to bet that if you pull the filter the soldering points that secure the heating element in place are broken
Just a FYI, it’s not a a fuel bow heater. It’s a fuel filter warmer.
Ever noticed the bottom of the filter is metal ? That so the heating element
can warm the filter to expand the gunk on the filter in order for fuel to flow better.
So I changed out the heater, cleaned the fuel bowl completely assured fuel was going back in. Changed #22 again with a glow fuse this time and it didn't blow and still no wts light. I don't have my multimeter.. But all the connections on the pcm looked good.. And I was worried since there was a ton of rain recently that it may have gotten in the connector or something and it doesn't appear that any water got in or anything.. Do you guys think I'm stuck with pcm needed or if there's something I may be missing? I had someone check my exhaust pipe for cranking without the light.. And there's a tiny bit of white smoke but not enough to tell without a light shining inside the pipe.
You might take a look at fuse #9 in the under hood fuse panel as it protects the PCM. It should be a 30 amp maxi fuse.
Just tried #9 with a new one, manual says its a 20 for diesel, but I put a 30 in and still nothing I also tried #8 for the IDM with a new 30 too. I just feel like there's gotta be something else besides the pcm at this point.. Because it never showed any signs of dying .. Then the truck sits for a couple weeks and now it won't start at all but cranks great.
I need to call you more, get that aggression out. =)
I was reading it based on the starting after sitting for a while. Ignoring the WTS light issue.
I'm with Rick though, if you're not popping fuses and it wont give you a wts light. I'd get another PCM to try.
The only other thing I know of that stops it from starting is the one Relay under the hood, but i forget which one it is. But I don't believe it has anything to do with the starting system, just disconnects the IDM from the system? Which I'm not positive if the IDM not present will stop the glow plug system from engaging.
Hey guys, I have been super busy and forgot to reply with results and what not.
So I cleaned the fuel bowl completely and she started up great.. But it also turns out my pcm was trashed too.. At least shortly after..
I took the pcm out after getting it to start.. Cleaned the pins very carefully and just a dabble of dielectric grease to seal it. I took it out again later to put it back in its home.. And my truck wouldn't start again.. The constant power pin on it broke at the base.. So I bought a different pcm from a low millage truck and it runs pretty much normal (still some issues )
I appreciate all your help guys.. I at least got her back on the road for now!
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