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Piecing Together E99 Conversion to L99

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Old Nov 15, 2018 | 10:40 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Dan V
I just installed a T4 on my '01.....so I have some Dorman uppies, a modded stock turbo with DieselSite WW2 (rebuild with a 360 bearing) and a delete pedestal. PM me if you are interested.
PM Sent. Thank you for the offer.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2019 | 12:49 PM
  #17  
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Guys I just wanted to give a quick update since I bought a new part for the conversion.... from ebay. Please dont wait for a install/review since im putting this kit together little by little. There are other truck maintenance thats a little more important right now.

Im open to the criticism from buying it on ebay. But I liked the price and the number of people that have purchased it before, gave me some peace of mind... some.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/7-3L-Ford-P...ry!90717!US!-1

 
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Old Feb 1, 2019 | 02:00 PM
  #18  
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I bought some just like that, think they were $129. Was pretty surprised by the initial quality for the price. Fit was good, no issues installing them, has been 2 years now. Make sure those come with the collector flange, not just the pipes themselves.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2019 | 02:17 PM
  #19  
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They look good. Let every buddy know how they go together and quality of material.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2019 | 01:49 PM
  #20  
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Just wanted to ask a question about these Intake Manifold Plenums from Amazon.
Amazon Amazon

I have the ability to get these for free brand new but didn't know how they would fit onto my E99. They similar to what ive seen on other sites.

HDRider did hook me up with his stock Manifold Plenums. But just wanted opinions on this option.

 
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Old Feb 28, 2019 | 02:16 PM
  #21  
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They look just like the ones from Irate Diesel. Two things that stand out to me.
The still seal to the heads with RTV so not much gain there.
Just a flat plate with a spigot welded on. No contour to help air flow.
My thoughts are only worth what you paid for them.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2019 | 02:22 PM
  #22  
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Double post
 

Last edited by HD Rider; Feb 28, 2019 at 02:23 PM. Reason: Double post
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Old Feb 28, 2019 | 04:53 PM
  #23  
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I would agree with HD rider on the mating surface. RiffRaffs plenum are more expensive but they seal awesome. And if you have to remove them and an o ring tears install new ones and good to go, no scraping off the old junk and a long clean up process. Never have had any leaking issues out of mine at all. One of the best things I ordered when I did my E99-L99 swap.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2019 | 05:07 PM
  #24  
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Looks like you are on your way. I will agree with Colorado 350 and go with some quality up pipes if you are doing this.

I wish I would have known as I just let go a rebuilt gtp38 with a billet wheel and deleted pedestal with 2k miles go. 3” plenums with inserts, and 17 degree Bosch pump with 10k on it.

If you need any parts let me know as we are in the middle of rebuilding 5 motors, a van SDmotor, 00 forged rod motor, and 3 obs motors.

All of the bolt ons are going in the scrap pile and the heads, front cover, crank, rods are all that are to remain. If you need anything let me know, that goes for anybody....

Lastly regarding plenums. People get carried away with the aftermarket plenums. Are they an improvement absolutely, have I purchased installed them-many, but I will note for your circumstance or 90% of the builds on here they are absolutely not needed. Put your money else where maybe in the up pipes.

For that chitty rtv, id like to find someone who actually can claim they blew it out. I have cracked 6.0 coolers before I ever blew a plenum or even had one leaking after resealing the first time. Personally have banged on my personal truck from 25-47 psi since 156k and now at 720k, still hold 60psi on a leak test without leaking. Stock plenums with that worthless rtv :-) more than sufficient for your setup.

Yes billet o ringed pieces are pretty and have their function.

best of luck, if you need anything shoot a pm.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2019 | 05:11 PM
  #25  
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Also save your 80$ on the high flow outlet. Takes about 5 min with a die grinder and center punch to knock out the rivets on the butterfly, buy a 1/2” freeze plug and after pulling the rod and butterfly seat the freeze plug and stake it.

That’s my 20 cents and your 5 min to save 80$
 
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Old Feb 28, 2019 | 06:38 PM
  #26  
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I changed my front brakes from e99 to 2000 stuff. I figured if I ever broke down far from home it'd be easier to find the later stuff quickly.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2019 | 07:57 PM
  #27  
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Why on a truck that tows once year? From my understanding, the gains are negligible.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2019 | 10:59 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by BBslider001
Why on a truck that tows once year? From my understanding, the gains are negligible.

If referring to the conversion as a whole, Im finding cheaper parts for 99.5 trucks then E99.

E99 bellowed up pipes = $300
99.5 bellowed up pipes =$80

The same goes for a drop in turbo and Pedestal without ebv.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2019 | 11:14 PM
  #29  
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If it were my truck, I'd do the same thing. I'd keep the EBV though, so I could run a decel tune.
It opens up so many more options at far better prices.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2019 | 09:42 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Fat Diesel
I changed my front brakes from e99 to 2000 stuff. I figured if I ever broke down far from home it'd be easier to find the later stuff quickly.

Not to hijack the thread...but what all is involved in a brake conversion from e99 to the later stuff? Just pads, rotors, and calipers?
 
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