High mileage 3v
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 203
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High mileage 3v
who out there has a high mileage 3v? My 4.6 3v is 8 years old this month and is rolling 220k. Replaced the trans at 198k miles. Engine is running strong. Just got hit by a hit and run driver and insurance replaced basically the entire drivers side. Wheels tires, body panels and all.
Anyhow. Would love to know who has higher miles than me (I am sure there are some out there. Or if anyone had a 4.6 3v fail and at what mileage.
Anyhow. Would love to know who has higher miles than me (I am sure there are some out there. Or if anyone had a 4.6 3v fail and at what mileage.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 203
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The cam phasers seem to get “stuck” sometimes after long trips on the highway at sustained speed. I don’t know exactly what’s happening. But for a few moments after exiting the highway something in the valvetrain rattles like hell at very load load (IE idling around a gas station pump). They do fine after a minute or when you give it more than light throttle once or twice. I need to do them I suppose. It holy smokes it’s gotta be expensive, huh?
I just preemptively did the fuel pump since we had the bed off for body work. Occasionally it would take several tries before it started. Seemed to be a fuel issue as I had a readout on the tach and no engine codes.
The manifolds seem fine. No leaks.
Overall its it’s been pretty bulletproof.
I replaced cam and crank sensors and a throttle body chasing an issue that ended up being a bad battery (low voltage at startup) other than that.... I have done absolutely nothing to the engine besides changing oil. Power steering has been somewhat problematic. I replaced a rack with a sticking valve/passageway at like 150k miles. And unfortunately it’s leaking a bit now on the drivers side. And I replaced the transmission at 197k miles. And that’s pretty well it except cosmetic repairs. Considering I got a hell of a deal and only paid 30k new... cost of ownership has been pennies per mile.
I just preemptively did the fuel pump since we had the bed off for body work. Occasionally it would take several tries before it started. Seemed to be a fuel issue as I had a readout on the tach and no engine codes.
The manifolds seem fine. No leaks.
Overall its it’s been pretty bulletproof.
I replaced cam and crank sensors and a throttle body chasing an issue that ended up being a bad battery (low voltage at startup) other than that.... I have done absolutely nothing to the engine besides changing oil. Power steering has been somewhat problematic. I replaced a rack with a sticking valve/passageway at like 150k miles. And unfortunately it’s leaking a bit now on the drivers side. And I replaced the transmission at 197k miles. And that’s pretty well it except cosmetic repairs. Considering I got a hell of a deal and only paid 30k new... cost of ownership has been pennies per mile.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
Oh and it uses about a quart per oil change I think. But you never see it smoking except occasionally on startup. And that has happened really since it was new. Just a puff right at startup when it’s parked facing downhill more than anything.
Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 221
Likes: 3
From: Northeast Ohio
The cam phasers seem to get “stuck” sometimes after long trips on the highway at sustained speed. I don’t know exactly what’s happening. But for a few moments after exiting the highway something in the valvetrain rattles like hell at very load load (IE idling around a gas station pump). They do fine after a minute or when you give it more than light throttle once or twice. I need to do them I suppose. It holy smokes it’s gotta be expensive, huh?
I just preemptively did the fuel pump since we had the bed off for body work. Occasionally it would take several tries before it started. Seemed to be a fuel issue as I had a readout on the tach and no engine codes.
The manifolds seem fine. No leaks.
Overall its it’s been pretty bulletproof.
I replaced cam and crank sensors and a throttle body chasing an issue that ended up being a bad battery (low voltage at startup) other than that.... I have done absolutely nothing to the engine besides changing oil. Power steering has been somewhat problematic. I replaced a rack with a sticking valve/passageway at like 150k miles. And unfortunately it’s leaking a bit now on the drivers side. And I replaced the transmission at 197k miles. And that’s pretty well it except cosmetic repairs. Considering I got a hell of a deal and only paid 30k new... cost of ownership has been pennies per mile.
I just preemptively did the fuel pump since we had the bed off for body work. Occasionally it would take several tries before it started. Seemed to be a fuel issue as I had a readout on the tach and no engine codes.
The manifolds seem fine. No leaks.
Overall its it’s been pretty bulletproof.
I replaced cam and crank sensors and a throttle body chasing an issue that ended up being a bad battery (low voltage at startup) other than that.... I have done absolutely nothing to the engine besides changing oil. Power steering has been somewhat problematic. I replaced a rack with a sticking valve/passageway at like 150k miles. And unfortunately it’s leaking a bit now on the drivers side. And I replaced the transmission at 197k miles. And that’s pretty well it except cosmetic repairs. Considering I got a hell of a deal and only paid 30k new... cost of ownership has been pennies per mile.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
Interesting, to my knowledge it has always had the proper oil in it. It may be that it was somewhat low and that caused an issue. As a whole though, he comments several times that the 4.6l 3v valvetrain is much more reliable than the 5.4. Win!
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 24,724
Likes: 74
From: Blue Hill Township
A buddy of mine has something like 305k on his 2010 with the 4.6. He said it is just starting to get a little noisy when it is cold.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2002
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Likes: 37
From: Ohio
As I recall, the Ford mechanic recommended using 5W -30 oil instead of the 5W-20 that the Ford spec calls for. His reasoning was that in other countrys where the fuel mileage is not quite as important, they still use 5W-30 and don't have the issues with cam phasers.
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