Looking at a 2 rangers
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 943
Likes: 2
From: Randolph, NJ
Welcome to FTE! Here's a few things I wish I had known to check when I bought my '98 B3000 4wd. I got lucky, nothing ended up being too bad.
- Check the heat/AC. Make sure the temperature switch actually works. There are several threads in here about the blend door issue. It sounds like a little thing, but it is a pain. Some people had luck with the "fix" that is posted. If you don't, it is a $1000 job at a dealer or mechanic. I did it on my own in a three night span. $100 for the part from a Ranger specific junkyard ($250 from the dealer).
- Stock ball joints are probably running out of grease. If you look at them and there are grease fittings on the ball joints, then they have been replaced. Ask in either case, it is a moderately expensive job to have someone replace them and do an alignment (especially on the 4wd). Any squeaks/creaks/etc from the front end? If so, those joints are going to need replacing in the near future. Mine started squeaking about a month and 500 miles after I bought it.
- Engage the 4wd on both, make sure it sounds/feels good. I don't think you have to worry about pulse vacuum hubs on a 2000, someone here can probably confirm that. Models with pulse vacuum hubs have a squeal that comes from the seals getting some dirt/water behind them.
- Listen for driveline clunks, shudders, or vibration. There are several threads about these. I don't know if the 2000 had the updated aluminum driveshaft stock or not. Maybe someone here can comment. Something to look for as it is a $400 part if it is on one of the trucks already and not the other.
- Check the Dome/Door Ajar light. Make sure it goes off when you shut the door. Not usually a hard problem to remedy, but extremely annoying.
- Check out the brake fluid. Is it dirty, clear or somewhere in between (be sure to wipe the dirt off the resovoir to get a decent look)? Mine was very dirty when I bought the truck at 115k and I think it was an indication that the rear wheel cylinders needed replacement. Not a big deal, I did the job on my own, but I wish I had thought of it then.
- Any car (brand/model) will have issues after 100k if it is not properly maintained (or even if it is). If there are maintenance records, you've got a better shot at getting a good one.
- Are they 3.0L's or 4.0L's? The 3.0L is known to have a ping in it that many people try with all their might to solve. I don't know much about the 4.0L.
- Auto or manual? There are some threads with issues on both, I think.
- Was the truck used for towing? If you see a beefy tow hitch, tow mirrors, or other clues chances are that it was. This adds a lot of wear to driveline, brakes, etc. If nothing else, find out what was towed and how often.
-Jim
- Check the heat/AC. Make sure the temperature switch actually works. There are several threads in here about the blend door issue. It sounds like a little thing, but it is a pain. Some people had luck with the "fix" that is posted. If you don't, it is a $1000 job at a dealer or mechanic. I did it on my own in a three night span. $100 for the part from a Ranger specific junkyard ($250 from the dealer).
- Stock ball joints are probably running out of grease. If you look at them and there are grease fittings on the ball joints, then they have been replaced. Ask in either case, it is a moderately expensive job to have someone replace them and do an alignment (especially on the 4wd). Any squeaks/creaks/etc from the front end? If so, those joints are going to need replacing in the near future. Mine started squeaking about a month and 500 miles after I bought it.
- Engage the 4wd on both, make sure it sounds/feels good. I don't think you have to worry about pulse vacuum hubs on a 2000, someone here can probably confirm that. Models with pulse vacuum hubs have a squeal that comes from the seals getting some dirt/water behind them.
- Listen for driveline clunks, shudders, or vibration. There are several threads about these. I don't know if the 2000 had the updated aluminum driveshaft stock or not. Maybe someone here can comment. Something to look for as it is a $400 part if it is on one of the trucks already and not the other.
- Check the Dome/Door Ajar light. Make sure it goes off when you shut the door. Not usually a hard problem to remedy, but extremely annoying.
- Check out the brake fluid. Is it dirty, clear or somewhere in between (be sure to wipe the dirt off the resovoir to get a decent look)? Mine was very dirty when I bought the truck at 115k and I think it was an indication that the rear wheel cylinders needed replacement. Not a big deal, I did the job on my own, but I wish I had thought of it then.
- Any car (brand/model) will have issues after 100k if it is not properly maintained (or even if it is). If there are maintenance records, you've got a better shot at getting a good one.
- Are they 3.0L's or 4.0L's? The 3.0L is known to have a ping in it that many people try with all their might to solve. I don't know much about the 4.0L.
- Auto or manual? There are some threads with issues on both, I think.
- Was the truck used for towing? If you see a beefy tow hitch, tow mirrors, or other clues chances are that it was. This adds a lot of wear to driveline, brakes, etc. If nothing else, find out what was towed and how often.
-Jim
Last edited by PSKSAM2; Sep 26, 2003 at 10:58 AM.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Thanks Jim..
The $7800 has 117k and a 4.0L
The $8200 has 90k and a 3.0L
Both are 2000's. with the 4drs
The 3.0L look better and comes with more features. Not sure how the 3.L engine (flexfuel) compares to the 4.0L
I am leaning toward the 3.0L engine due to the miles and overall shape.
I'll have to check on the b-joints and other items.
No flames please.....
I am buying the truck over the net so a actual inspection will be done at the time of delivery. This is my first time
doing this so I hope it is not a BIG learning experiance.
I have had some friends get some good deals off the net..all transactions when smooth.
Cheers
Kerry
The $7800 has 117k and a 4.0L
The $8200 has 90k and a 3.0L
Both are 2000's. with the 4drs
The 3.0L look better and comes with more features. Not sure how the 3.L engine (flexfuel) compares to the 4.0L
I am leaning toward the 3.0L engine due to the miles and overall shape.
I'll have to check on the b-joints and other items.
No flames please.....
I am buying the truck over the net so a actual inspection will be done at the time of delivery. This is my first time
doing this so I hope it is not a BIG learning experiance.I have had some friends get some good deals off the net..all transactions when smooth.
Cheers
Kerry
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 943
Likes: 2
From: Randolph, NJ
I made some updates to the post. I bought my truck off of ebay so don't feel too weird. Just make sure that you go and see it and have a way to back out if the condition is not as advertised.
I drove from NYC to Boston to go buy it and checked it out there. The seller agreed that if I got there and the truck was not as stated, I could back out with no problems. If it is at all local to you, go see the truck first.
-Jim
I drove from NYC to Boston to go buy it and checked it out there. The seller agreed that if I got there and the truck was not as stated, I could back out with no problems. If it is at all local to you, go see the truck first.
-Jim
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,748
Likes: 16
From: Connecticut
I can't think of anything significant to add ....Jim covered it very well.
The 4.0L motor will give you more pulling power and torque, but that's not to say the 3.0L isn't up to the task, either.
Both motors are durable, as are the trucks themselves, and the average driver can expect to get 200-300K miles out of them with proper maintenance. Read here: How many miles on your Ranger?
P.S. Welcome to FTE!
The 4.0L motor will give you more pulling power and torque, but that's not to say the 3.0L isn't up to the task, either.
Both motors are durable, as are the trucks themselves, and the average driver can expect to get 200-300K miles out of them with proper maintenance. Read here: How many miles on your Ranger?
P.S. Welcome to FTE!
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
I think you're alright with either one, in terms of miliage. Huge difference between a 115,000 mile 4 year old truck, and a 115,000 10 year old truck.
I bought my 98 4x4 supercab in early August with 116,000 on it. I got it from a dealer (Friend of the family) se he gave it to me at cost, but I couldn't talk to the previous owner. It was a one owner truck.
It only has the off road package and a/c. The a/c blows cold and the tires were matching Goodyear tires. It appeared that he took good care of it, maintenance wise.
I've fixed the dome light with a little grease squirt in the door latch.
I replaced the pully tensioner to solve the annoying squeak. $54.00
The front brakes were engaged slightly, preventing the truck from rolling free. I replaced the front pads and removed the anti-vibrating clips and filed all the rust behind the clips. Now the pads float freely.
I cleaned the Mass air flow sensor, changed all the fluids, air & fuel filter. NOTE: Fuel filter - $6.00 Special tool to remove it - $17.00
One dash light is out. I'll wait until another one dies, then replace them all.
Headlight switch was detached behind the dash. Had to superglue it.
I'm going to address some rust spots underneath the truck and inside the doors before winter.
Also the U-joint probably has to be replaced sometime.
Overall - Very happy with my $5,000 purchase. 1998 was a big change. It runs like a champ, and looks great. This is my third ranger. Had a brand new 93 4x4 for a year. And I bought a used 89 2wd. Traded it in with 135,000 for a grand. Never any major problems. FTE is awesome. Every question you need answered (As you can see) can be found here.
I bought my 98 4x4 supercab in early August with 116,000 on it. I got it from a dealer (Friend of the family) se he gave it to me at cost, but I couldn't talk to the previous owner. It was a one owner truck.
It only has the off road package and a/c. The a/c blows cold and the tires were matching Goodyear tires. It appeared that he took good care of it, maintenance wise.
I've fixed the dome light with a little grease squirt in the door latch.
I replaced the pully tensioner to solve the annoying squeak. $54.00
The front brakes were engaged slightly, preventing the truck from rolling free. I replaced the front pads and removed the anti-vibrating clips and filed all the rust behind the clips. Now the pads float freely.
I cleaned the Mass air flow sensor, changed all the fluids, air & fuel filter. NOTE: Fuel filter - $6.00 Special tool to remove it - $17.00
One dash light is out. I'll wait until another one dies, then replace them all.
Headlight switch was detached behind the dash. Had to superglue it.
I'm going to address some rust spots underneath the truck and inside the doors before winter.
Also the U-joint probably has to be replaced sometime.
Overall - Very happy with my $5,000 purchase. 1998 was a big change. It runs like a champ, and looks great. This is my third ranger. Had a brand new 93 4x4 for a year. And I bought a used 89 2wd. Traded it in with 135,000 for a grand. Never any major problems. FTE is awesome. Every question you need answered (As you can see) can be found here.
