Justin
My motor has a 4.350 bore with a 4.250 stroke. Some of the specs are as follows: I am using a Genesis cross bolted main 427 side oiler block which has siamese bores with a forged Scat 4.250 stoker crank swinging Oliver rods with Racetec forged 9.75 to 1 pistons. Cometic .040 MLS gaskets . Heads are BBM with Ferrara stainless valves 2.150 intake 1.710 exhaust. They have been ported and flow tested, they flow 308 cfm at .600 intake and 217 cfm at .600 exhaust. The manifold is a port injected Edelbrock Victor 427 and has also been ported and tested and averages 455 cfm per port.
I am running a custom grind Torque-centric hydraulic roller cam. Intake .591 lift duration @ .050 223 Exhaust .605 lift duration @ .050 231 Separation 113 . If I want to get real geeky with the cam timing I have a Danny Bee externally adjustable cam timing belt system, don't know if I will use that though.
I have been blowing up my pea-brain thinking about all the numbers. I am ready to start building , then testing and see where I am at , even if it is just seat of the pants testing ! (probably going on a engine dyno)
David

 

Are you running the Pro-Flo 4? I have that for my FE 444 stroker I'm building. This is for my 71 restomod, but I have thought about putting it in my crewcab. We'll see when the time comes for it. Sounds like a fun motor for your truck!

 

Thanks for this. I'll see about grabbing some for my Hobart!

 

Gump
I am running the pro flow 4 and for my build I am bumping the injector size up 1 step. The injectors it comes with are right on the edge of my goals and would be at 100% when I am getting on it.

The silicon bronze has been absolutely one of the best choices I have made on this build !!! It makes holes and rust repairs so much easier. I had to cut out some of the fire wall to get acces to repair rust in the channel ( gutter?) below the slots under the windshield . It made welding the long cuts much easier . I will post a picture in a few minutes.

 

 

Looks great! I'd love to have a rotisserie for when I go and work on my crewcab. I'm just getting it in driving condition now so I can finish my other projects I have. My restomod would do from a rotisserie as well.

I love the work you're putting into this. This will last another 50 years once you're done.

 

Happy day today
I finally have all the holes and patch panels on my cab done! Some primer tomorrow or Friday. Then I will move on to the Lizard Skin sound and heat control coatings. They will go on the entire underside of the cab and the fire wall from the pinch welds down. I will also apply it to the inside of the fire wall under the dash.
Once that is done the cab while still mounted to the rotisserie will be going to a small shop that does restorations and also does body and paint in-house. I have done some bartering with him for a discount on body work and paint in exchange for engine and trans and body parts from a dent that I bought for parts.
Paint ? What color ? The colors I like are dark blues and grays. I found a paint that I liked the "colors" of but don't know if it is in the budget. It was made by Lexus and is called "Structural Blue" It actually has no blue pigment in it!!!!!! It only reflects or refracts blue light and the color subtlety changes based upon the light source and lighting conditions. There are several things in nature that have the same properties which is what they tried to imitate. Cool stuff ! Lexus made a video about the color and the manufacturing of it. Enough rambling I need to pick colors soon!!!!

 

Cool, making progress if you are picking colors.

 

I am still making progress which is good.
It has been too cold here to put on the Lizard Skin coatings so I have started working on the fuel plumbing. It took me lots of research and web surfing to find the fuel pump and fuel sending unit that I will be using. Every modification you make has many resulting consequences and with them many decisions to make to be able to make the next step.
Soooo for fuel. The information for the fuel injection system stated that the fuel pump needed to be able to supply 225 LPH at 58 PSI to support X amount of horsepower which was sufficient for most applications. Since my HP and Torque goals exceeded that parameter I needed to get a larger pump.
Thus decisions. The choices basically fell into 3 groups : #1 full race frame mounted pump #2 semi race mini fuel cell submerged pump feed by stock pump ( fuel cell surrounding pump is only a gallon or so) or #3 high performance in tank pump ( most of which did not exceed the 225 LPH at 58 PSI)
I finally found a 340 LPH at 58 PSI in tank pump which would work. I am running a rear mounted 33 gallon plastic tank made for a late 80s suburban which had factory fuel injection. There were no high performance pumps available that fit the stock opening which meant enlarging the opening and finding a different route for a fuel sending unit. SOOOO now the search for a fuel sending unit as a separate unit which will work with the tank. My tank only had 2 basically flat spots on it 1 where the original fuel pump was an a 2-3/4" circular spot. The search was on again. I eventually found a sending unit without an arm for the float that would work with that size flat spot.
Pics to follow

 

Pump and mounting parts

 

I like the parts in the kit but not certain that I like the wireing connections. They are submerged in a flammable liquid surrounded by explosive vapor

 

I know it's too late but you can put a bigger pump in the stock 80s burb tank/fuel pickup. The 80s GM turbo vehicles; grand national/cyclone/typhon had aftermarket support and used similar fuel tank stuff. I'm running a 340 lph (Holley brand, but made by someone else) in the factory GM pickup, factory sock/filter. The wiring is not as heavy as the higher quality aftermarket fuel hat you have, and return is only 5/16 (supply is 3/8). That said I measured only 8 amps at 60+ psi (spec is 15 A). Make sure the rest of the wiring to fuel pump is robust, as it is a long run. I used 12 ga and ended up going through 2 weather pack connectors. The connectors have there own current limit. No connectors would be better but modularity/maintainability is lost. The other issue is the GM pickup has the GM fuel sender ohm range, backwards to ford, I solved this with programmable Dakota digital dash.

Have to give credit to Lrrr-RulerOfOmicronP, he provided me most of the info in his fuel tank thread.

255 lph was marginal for me too, with nitrous. A 'lil 75 shot gets me to 500 hp to 650 tq. At 60+ psi no margin, and if lean on sauce bad things happen quick.

Don't worry about arcing and fire hazard at 12V, all OEM fuel system have exposed conductors.

 

1 more step done. Mostly.
This weekend and this afternoon I sprayed 4 coats of Lizard Skin product on the entire bottom of the cab up to the first pinch weld on the fire wall. First step was media blast then the bottom got a coat of Steel-It black with stainless steel and anti rust properties. Next step was 2 coats Lizard Skin sound deadening coating and then finally this afternoon was 2 coats of Lizard Skin heat blocking coating.
Pics to follow

 

Just getting started after everything was taped off. I will being using the Lizard Skin on the fire wall as well but will have to do some modifications for the vintage air system so will spray it later.

After 2 coats of the sound control then I had to wait 48 hrs to spray the next coat

The finished product after 2 coats of the heat control coating. After the body and paint work are done it will get a coat of paint as well.

 

Dang that looks good.

Wish I had me a rotisserie... Your cheating. Awesome as always.