Escape having problems with first gear
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2010
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Escape having problems with first gear
Hey Folks,
So, seems that we are a family of escapes. My 3 daughters all own Escapes (a 2002, a 2006, and a 2013). And this wasnt on purpose, just how it shook out.
That being said, my second daughter (with the 2002) has a manual transmission and just started having an issue immediately following new tires being installed on the front of her car.
Suddenly, she is having a problem shifting into First Gear (yes, manual transmission). Once she is in first, the rest of the gears shift normally, it's just getting into first while at a full stop is suddenly a chore.
So... anyone have any ideas they can share as to what may be the issue, or even how to troubleshoot it? We do a lot of tinkering with her car, but transmissions are a mystery to us. Any insights would be appreciated.
Oh, and its a 2002 Escape, 4 cylinder with manual transmission. Figured I'd spell that out.
Thanks!
So, seems that we are a family of escapes. My 3 daughters all own Escapes (a 2002, a 2006, and a 2013). And this wasnt on purpose, just how it shook out.
That being said, my second daughter (with the 2002) has a manual transmission and just started having an issue immediately following new tires being installed on the front of her car.
Suddenly, she is having a problem shifting into First Gear (yes, manual transmission). Once she is in first, the rest of the gears shift normally, it's just getting into first while at a full stop is suddenly a chore.
So... anyone have any ideas they can share as to what may be the issue, or even how to troubleshoot it? We do a lot of tinkering with her car, but transmissions are a mystery to us. Any insights would be appreciated.
Oh, and its a 2002 Escape, 4 cylinder with manual transmission. Figured I'd spell that out.
Thanks!
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2016
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Sounds like the clutch needs adjusting, probably just coincidence that it started when new tires fitted. If the clutch starts to drag (not disengage fully), then it makes shifting into first/reverse difficult but won't be noticeable on other shifts.
I haven't got my manual to hand (and my three are all autos), but I can look up the adjustment later - can't even tell you if the clutch is cable or hydraulic, if cable then dragging can be an early sign that the cable is starting to stretch/break.
I haven't got my manual to hand (and my three are all autos), but I can look up the adjustment later - can't even tell you if the clutch is cable or hydraulic, if cable then dragging can be an early sign that the cable is starting to stretch/break.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2016
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In the Haynes manual there isn't any adjustment listed so if the fluid level is good you'll have to look for lost motion between the clutch pedal and the slave cylinder moving the pushrod/lever into the clutch bell housing to move the clutch. If there isn't anything more than minimal play then the issue must be inside the clutch itself and you'll have to pull the transmission. If you need to do that then almost certainly replacing the 3 clutch components (they normally come as a kit of friction plate, cover plate and release bearing), will bring back normal operation. Clutch drag as you describe comes from the clutch not 100% releasing, which itself can be a symptom of just worn clutch components.
If you want to absolutely rule out everything external before pulling the trans then replace the master and slave cylinders and bleed the fluid - but if you aren't losing motion then thats unlikely to make any difference.
Sorry not great news but the manual trans is certainly easier to pull than the auto (no cooler lines, probably only 2WD, lighter/smaller)...again there is nothing I can think of the tire shop could have done to cause this.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 198
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Ok - sorry took a day later than planned - first check the clutch fluid level in the master cylinder, if it is dry then add fluid and bleed in a similar way to brake bleeding.
In the Haynes manual there isn't any adjustment listed so if the fluid level is good you'll have to look for lost motion between the clutch pedal and the slave cylinder moving the pushrod/lever into the clutch bell housing to move the clutch. If there isn't anything more than minimal play then the issue must be inside the clutch itself and you'll have to pull the transmission. If you need to do that then almost certainly replacing the 3 clutch components (they normally come as a kit of friction plate, cover plate and release bearing), will bring back normal operation. Clutch drag as you describe comes from the clutch not 100% releasing, which itself can be a symptom of just worn clutch components.
If you want to absolutely rule out everything external before pulling the trans then replace the master and slave cylinders and bleed the fluid - but if you aren't losing motion then thats unlikely to make any difference.
Sorry not great news but the manual trans is certainly easier to pull than the auto (no cooler lines, probably only 2WD, lighter/smaller)...again there is nothing I can think of the tire shop could have done to cause this.
In the Haynes manual there isn't any adjustment listed so if the fluid level is good you'll have to look for lost motion between the clutch pedal and the slave cylinder moving the pushrod/lever into the clutch bell housing to move the clutch. If there isn't anything more than minimal play then the issue must be inside the clutch itself and you'll have to pull the transmission. If you need to do that then almost certainly replacing the 3 clutch components (they normally come as a kit of friction plate, cover plate and release bearing), will bring back normal operation. Clutch drag as you describe comes from the clutch not 100% releasing, which itself can be a symptom of just worn clutch components.
If you want to absolutely rule out everything external before pulling the trans then replace the master and slave cylinders and bleed the fluid - but if you aren't losing motion then thats unlikely to make any difference.
Sorry not great news but the manual trans is certainly easier to pull than the auto (no cooler lines, probably only 2WD, lighter/smaller)...again there is nothing I can think of the tire shop could have done to cause this.
Unfortunately, she was on the way home from school today and it locked up completely, so she had it towed to a transmission shop and theyre looking at it first thing in the morning
C'est la vie.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2016
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That's some great info, thank you for taking the time to write all of this up.
Unfortunately, she was on the way home from school today and it locked up completely, so she had it towed to a transmission shop and theyre looking at it first thing in the morning C'est la vie.
Unfortunately, she was on the way home from school today and it locked up completely, so she had it towed to a transmission shop and theyre looking at it first thing in the morning
C'est la vie.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2010
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So, according to the shop, the problem is her hydraulics, and the clutch and transmission are both fine. It's a couple hundred bucks for both the master and slave cylinders, installation, etc.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2016
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Quite likely BUT highly unlikely it actually <needs> both cylinders, sounds like they can't tell which one has the leaking piston seal, probably take them too long to work out which or change just one and see if it needs the other. Not too much $$$ in the scheme of things I suppose...
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