Procomp 2.5 level kit
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Procomp 2.5 level kit
Bought a procomp spacer 2.5 level kit. Came with rubber bushing and the steel spacer and shock extenders which I'll trash since I'm upgrading from the junk "rancho fx4" shocks. What all else is needed? Track bar be ok still? Caster correction shims needed? Dont mind splurging possibly for a 2.5 lift spring instead if that helps at all
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Mine barely rebound...timed a rear shock last night fro. Full compression and it took dang near 45 seconds to fully extend back out. Junk shocks as where the ones on my 2016 EcoBoost. Shocks are an area ford definitely cheaped out on.
More Turbo
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 590
Likes: 32
After replacing the FX4 shocks on my 2018 F250 "Just because" I was already upgrading the steering stabilizer, I was shocked at how stiff and jarring it made the ride. I think Ford knows exactly what they are doing and tunes the stock / FX4 shocks like they do on purpose. To me, the stock ride of my 2018 was good and my 2019 is even better. Add some tires with a lot of sidewall and its even better... I know some people complain about bounce and porposing over uneven expansion joints and what not but I don't really feel that, at least not to a degree that I'd rather trade that for feeling every tiny little bump through my spine with Fox shocks. *Disclaimer: With on road driving only - offroad would probably be a completely different story.
Sorry to derail your thread. When lifting the front 2.5" you will need to replace the stock track bar with an adjustable one (Icon, Carli, etc.) or do what 99% of people do and install a trackbar relocation bracket from someone like Readylift. This will recenter your front anxle - without it you'll have a front wheel/tire that sticks out almost 2" more on one side.
Additionally, if you want to preserve the stock steering feel - you'll also want to add some positive caster back to the front end geometry. Cheapest way to do this is caster shrims/cams, Carli sells a set of 2* cams that they recommend for 2.5" levels. Alternatively, you could replace your stock radius arms with something like PMF adjustable radius arms which let you dial in how much caster you want. Those that skip this step either somehow don't notice the sloppy steering is and all the bump steer they now have (Not sure how, maybe they didn't drive it long enough stock to remember how it used to drive) or they just learn to live with it. Most kits also drop the sway bar with drop brackets.
This is easily one of the most documented topics on this forum so plenty to read if you search.
Sorry to derail your thread. When lifting the front 2.5" you will need to replace the stock track bar with an adjustable one (Icon, Carli, etc.) or do what 99% of people do and install a trackbar relocation bracket from someone like Readylift. This will recenter your front anxle - without it you'll have a front wheel/tire that sticks out almost 2" more on one side.
Additionally, if you want to preserve the stock steering feel - you'll also want to add some positive caster back to the front end geometry. Cheapest way to do this is caster shrims/cams, Carli sells a set of 2* cams that they recommend for 2.5" levels. Alternatively, you could replace your stock radius arms with something like PMF adjustable radius arms which let you dial in how much caster you want. Those that skip this step either somehow don't notice the sloppy steering is and all the bump steer they now have (Not sure how, maybe they didn't drive it long enough stock to remember how it used to drive) or they just learn to live with it. Most kits also drop the sway bar with drop brackets.
This is easily one of the most documented topics on this forum so plenty to read if you search.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,304
Likes: 93
Trending Topics
New User
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Very helpful info. Thanks.
I am looking at leveling kits for my 2019 Superduty. I see 2" and 2.5" kits. What is the correct size.
I am looking at leveling kits for my 2019 Superduty. I see 2" and 2.5" kits. What is the correct size.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 1,655
Likes: 21
From: Western MA
In my experience there were incremental upgrades to the “ride” IMO when adding the Fox shocks, then the Deaver leaf springs and finally going from 34.8 inch tires to 37 inch. Each added to the ride quality IMO. I didn’t have FX4 shocks so I can’t comment on them. I do however drive an XL work truck with stock everything and its boarderline criminal how it rides (on the same streets I drive my truck on).
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 1,655
Likes: 21
From: Western MA
After replacing the FX4 shocks on my 2018 F250 "Just because" I was already upgrading the steering stabilizer, I was shocked at how stiff and jarring it made the ride. I think Ford knows exactly what they are doing and tunes the stock / FX4 shocks like they do on purpose. To me, the stock ride of my 2018 was good and my 2019 is even better. Add some tires with a lot of sidewall and its even better... I know some people complain about bounce and porposing over uneven expansion joints and what not but I don't really feel that, at least not to a degree that I'd rather trade that for feeling every tiny little bump through my spine with Fox shocks. *Disclaimer: With on road driving only - offroad would probably be a completely different story.
Sorry to derail your thread. When lifting the front 2.5" you will need to replace the stock track bar with an adjustable one (Icon, Carli, etc.) or do what 99% of people do and install a trackbar relocation bracket from someone like Readylift. This will recenter your front anxle - without it you'll have a front wheel/tire that sticks out almost 2" more on one side.
Additionally, if you want to preserve the stock steering feel - you'll also want to add some positive caster back to the front end geometry. Cheapest way to do this is caster shrims/cams, Carli sells a set of 2* cams that they recommend for 2.5" levels. Alternatively, you could replace your stock radius arms with something like PMF adjustable radius arms which let you dial in how much caster you want. Those that skip this step either somehow don't notice the sloppy steering is and all the bump steer they now have (Not sure how, maybe they didn't drive it long enough stock to remember how it used to drive) or they just learn to live with it. Most kits also drop the sway bar with drop brackets.
This is easily one of the most documented topics on this forum so plenty to read if you search.
Sorry to derail your thread. When lifting the front 2.5" you will need to replace the stock track bar with an adjustable one (Icon, Carli, etc.) or do what 99% of people do and install a trackbar relocation bracket from someone like Readylift. This will recenter your front anxle - without it you'll have a front wheel/tire that sticks out almost 2" more on one side.
Additionally, if you want to preserve the stock steering feel - you'll also want to add some positive caster back to the front end geometry. Cheapest way to do this is caster shrims/cams, Carli sells a set of 2* cams that they recommend for 2.5" levels. Alternatively, you could replace your stock radius arms with something like PMF adjustable radius arms which let you dial in how much caster you want. Those that skip this step either somehow don't notice the sloppy steering is and all the bump steer they now have (Not sure how, maybe they didn't drive it long enough stock to remember how it used to drive) or they just learn to live with it. Most kits also drop the sway bar with drop brackets.
This is easily one of the most documented topics on this forum so plenty to read if you search.
5th Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 30
Likes: 13
Anyone that says you don't need the caster shims is fooling themselves. I only have the 1.5" rough country springs and the truck was noticeably floaty even when not towing. It wasn't dangerous but quite a departure from stock. I went with the SPC shims (23268 Drive, 23269 Passenger) https://www.spcalignment.com/index.p...tion&pid=23268
Rough Country also sells an adjustable track bar for ~$200 which isn't much more than the bracket would cost and you can get it dialed in perfectly.
I'm running the Rancho 9000's and ride is noticeably better than stock...
I didn't bother with sway bar brackets or brake line extensions. Didn't notice them to be necessary @ 1.5" but that may not be true for 2.5"...
Rough Country also sells an adjustable track bar for ~$200 which isn't much more than the bracket would cost and you can get it dialed in perfectly.
I'm running the Rancho 9000's and ride is noticeably better than stock...
I didn't bother with sway bar brackets or brake line extensions. Didn't notice them to be necessary @ 1.5" but that may not be true for 2.5"...
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,563
Likes: 533
From: DFW
Yep, with a level, you need to fix the caster and address the trackbar. ReadyLift makes a good bracket. I’d also recommend an upgraded steering stabilizer, just for good measure. Those three components, plus the actual lift should produce a great ride.
More Turbo
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 590
Likes: 32
Was the “Caddy” ride what you were looking for in a heavy duty pickup? Lol
In my experience there were incremental upgrades to the “ride” IMO when adding the Fox shocks, then the Deaver leaf springs and finally going from 34.8 inch tires to 37 inch. Each added to the ride quality IMO. I didn’t have FX4 shocks so I can’t comment on them. I do however drive an XL work truck with stock everything and its boarderline criminal how it rides (on the same streets I drive my truck on).
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 1,655
Likes: 21
From: Western MA
I just meant it's a very comfortable ride... And yes - part of my buying an F250 was that it didn't ride like a dump truck, despite it being a large heavy duty pickup. I don't see how an XL is going to ride any different than an XL, Lariat, etc. ? Mine's an XL with FX4 shocks... I'm not exaggerating, when I installed Fox shocks it rode like I replaced my stocks with solid metal rods instead of shocks. Maybe I just got some bad ones... I did triple check that I had the correct model #s (Including when I spoke with Fox support on the phone) - but I never sent them in to be checked out.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
50dann
Brakes, Steering, Suspension, Tires, & Wheels
5
Oct 22, 2013 12:54 PM