engine swap time
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engine swap time
I’m gathering parts to begin a engine swap. On my 1968 f100. I will be pulling the factory 240 out of the trucks and installing a 1986 351w out of a E250.
the truck is a 3 speed on the column.
My question is: will my bellhousing and transmission work with the 351w? Will my clutch work with the new engine?
I understand from what I have researched and read.
I will need a flywheel because the 240 is internally balanced engines. Is the flywheel I need the same size diameter and tooth wise as my 240 flywheel with the added weights? I understand there are 2 different weighted flywheels a 28oz and I believe a 50 something oz. which one will I need?
will the van style oil pan work in the truck or will I need a rear sump oil pan?
Thanks in advance!
any other advise I will be glad to listen too.
the truck is a 3 speed on the column.
My question is: will my bellhousing and transmission work with the 351w? Will my clutch work with the new engine?
I understand from what I have researched and read.
I will need a flywheel because the 240 is internally balanced engines. Is the flywheel I need the same size diameter and tooth wise as my 240 flywheel with the added weights? I understand there are 2 different weighted flywheels a 28oz and I believe a 50 something oz. which one will I need?
will the van style oil pan work in the truck or will I need a rear sump oil pan?
Thanks in advance!
any other advise I will be glad to listen too.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
I’m gathering parts to begin a engine swap. On my 1968 f100. I will be pulling the factory 240 out of the trucks and installing a 1986 351w out of a E250.
the truck is a 3 speed on the column.
Will the van (Econoline) style oil pan work in the truck or will I need a rear sump oil pan?
the truck is a 3 speed on the column.
Will the van (Econoline) style oil pan work in the truck or will I need a rear sump oil pan?
All 1975/91 Econolines have a rear sump pan, regardless of what size the engine size is. 351W introduced in 1975 Econolines.
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 340
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From: Rock Hill, SC
You need engine perches from a truck that came with a small block. The transmission, clutch and bellhousing are fine, but you have to use a flywheel with the right imbalance for your 351. Most likely 11" with 28 oz imbalance.
The other problem is the 302 style headers won't clear the bell housing and the shorty style point right to the clutch bell crank. You probably need to use the stock 351 manifolds.
You can use the 240's radiator, but if it is a 2 row core take it to a radiator shop and have the 3 row core put in. Some 240's had the 3 row as a HD towing package and even if yours isn't the tanks are wide enough for the 3 row.
The other problem is the 302 style headers won't clear the bell housing and the shorty style point right to the clutch bell crank. You probably need to use the stock 351 manifolds.
You can use the 240's radiator, but if it is a 2 row core take it to a radiator shop and have the 3 row core put in. Some 240's had the 3 row as a HD towing package and even if yours isn't the tanks are wide enough for the 3 row.
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You need engine perches from a truck that came with a small block. The transmission, clutch and bellhousing are fine, but you have to use a flywheel with the right imbalance for your 351. Most likely 11" with 28 oz imbalance.
The other problem is the 302 style headers won't clear the bell housing and the shorty style point right to the clutch bell crank. You probably need to use the stock 351 manifolds.
You can use the 240's radiator, but if it is a 2 row core take it to a radiator shop and have the 3 row core put in. Some 240's had the 3 row as a HD towing package and even if yours isn't the tanks are wide enough for the 3 row.
The other problem is the 302 style headers won't clear the bell housing and the shorty style point right to the clutch bell crank. You probably need to use the stock 351 manifolds.
You can use the 240's radiator, but if it is a 2 row core take it to a radiator shop and have the 3 row core put in. Some 240's had the 3 row as a HD towing package and even if yours isn't the tanks are wide enough for the 3 row.
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 340
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From: Rock Hill, SC
One other thing I remembered is the 240's throttle linkage will be on the wrong side for the V8 carb. If you can find a V8 throttle assembly it would be easier, but you can modify the 240's if needed. I think a lot of years will work maybe from 65-72 or even later.
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Thansk I knew about the linkage being different. I’ve found a truck I can get the v8 linkage off of.
Let me ask this question i had a older gentleman tell me. I could swap my 240 engine perches around and they would work on the v8.
Swap the Passenger side to driver side then swap the driver side to passenger side
Let me ask this question i had a older gentleman tell me. I could swap my 240 engine perches around and they would work on the v8.
Swap the Passenger side to driver side then swap the driver side to passenger side
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Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: North Pole, Alaska
Wrong on that. For an FE, you just slide the Six perches to the next hole. For a small block (302/351W, and 351M/400), you can use -79 302 and 77-79 351M/400 perches. Or you can buy new perches from Autofab.
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From: Simi Valley, CA
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you all probably knew this was coming. Lol. I have another question.
The 351w has a electronic ingnition that i would like to keep. It is a blue plug DURASPARK. I’ve looked over the sticky thread found some good diagrams in that post. I’m a little confused on where I need to make the connection to my truck from the DURASPARK box. to make sure I’m correct in my assumption.
the blue wire wire should go all the way to my ignition switch on the run side. The red with blue stripe should be routed to the start side of the ignition switch.
Where I am confused is coming off the ignition switch to the solenoid off the solenoid to the coil.
My truck will have wires going to the solenoid. Do I need to disconnect those and run new wires? The diagram also shows a 1.1ohm resistor will my truck have this or will I need to acquire one?
i have saved all the wiring harness I could off of the donor van. I had to cut the harness behind the plug I have marked with black in the picture.
where could I find a wiring diagram of a 68 ignition switch?
The 351w has a electronic ingnition that i would like to keep. It is a blue plug DURASPARK. I’ve looked over the sticky thread found some good diagrams in that post. I’m a little confused on where I need to make the connection to my truck from the DURASPARK box. to make sure I’m correct in my assumption.
the blue wire wire should go all the way to my ignition switch on the run side. The red with blue stripe should be routed to the start side of the ignition switch.
Where I am confused is coming off the ignition switch to the solenoid off the solenoid to the coil.
My truck will have wires going to the solenoid. Do I need to disconnect those and run new wires? The diagram also shows a 1.1ohm resistor will my truck have this or will I need to acquire one?
i have saved all the wiring harness I could off of the donor van. I had to cut the harness behind the plug I have marked with black in the picture.
where could I find a wiring diagram of a 68 ignition switch?
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