N-O-R-M-A-L Temp for 1994 E350 5.8
#1
N-O-R-M-A-L Temp for 1994 E350 5.8
Just wondering what the normal reading for the water temp? Mine seems to like to run right at the "A" in NORMAL, that seems to hot to me, don't matter if am on the highway or driving in the city. I did get burned touching the top of the rad, so I believe the gauge. The engine is hauling around high top 20ft shuttle bus.
If that's not normal what's the likely problem?
If that's not normal what's the likely problem?
#2
While the temperature gauge does have a range that shows "normal" it's by no means all that reliable as an indicator of the numerical temperature reading.
Good gravy there's about a 100 things it could be--what's the mileage and are there any service records for this van? Does the heater still blow warm air? Anything from a plugged radiator, failing water pump, stuck thermostat, loss of coolant, failing radiator pressure cap, blown head gasket........
You need to use an IR thermometer on the t'stat housing and at the upper radiator inlet to make sure the t'stat is opening. While that's a typical first step on potential over heating issues its by no means the only thing causing what you believe is a higher-than-normal coolant temperatures.
A leak-down test of the cooling system would be another good place to start. The cheapy auto parts stores might have a tester you can rent or borrow--make sure the tester will also check your pressure cap.
I don't mean to sound so negative but the cooling system needs to be checked over------good luck with this!
Good gravy there's about a 100 things it could be--what's the mileage and are there any service records for this van? Does the heater still blow warm air? Anything from a plugged radiator, failing water pump, stuck thermostat, loss of coolant, failing radiator pressure cap, blown head gasket........
You need to use an IR thermometer on the t'stat housing and at the upper radiator inlet to make sure the t'stat is opening. While that's a typical first step on potential over heating issues its by no means the only thing causing what you believe is a higher-than-normal coolant temperatures.
A leak-down test of the cooling system would be another good place to start. The cheapy auto parts stores might have a tester you can rent or borrow--make sure the tester will also check your pressure cap.
I don't mean to sound so negative but the cooling system needs to be checked over------good luck with this!
#3
Mileage is 196K, yes it blows really hot air no major loss of coolant there is a little drip from around the t-stat housing, no service records expect for Carfax, Carfax says at around 100K all of this was done "Thermostat replaced Antifreeze/coolant flushed/changed Cooling fan clutch replaced Cooling system hoses replaced Thermostat housing/gasket replaced Cooling system serviced". I am pretty sure the t-stat is opening the upper hose and top of the radiator is really hot, the lower hose is hot but notable cooler to the touch. I will have to get an IR gun a cap and block tester kit.
#4
Before throwing a lot of new parts at this first test the system---it could be everything is in good operating condition already. Measuring the actual temperature is the first step. I'd also suggest using some sort of thermometer stuck into the coolant recovery bottle when engine is warmed to normal operating temperature.
Naturally when the engine is up to temperature remove the pressure cap S-L-O-W-L-Y in case there is excessive pressure in the system.
Naturally when the engine is up to temperature remove the pressure cap S-L-O-W-L-Y in case there is excessive pressure in the system.
#5
Thanks JWA, only thing I did order was a high flow 180 tstat, and cap, cheap easy stuff. I did however notice that the tail pipe is smashed, and creased so likely there is to much back pressure and may not be the reason it’s running hot but for sure is not helping time to get the sawzall out.
#7
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#9
Anyone who finds this thread in the future: Check your tail pipe for restrictions, and your rad cap. Cut the tip off my tail pipe and put on a new fresh rad. cap. (the part I removed was 16LB book calls for 13LB) Engine gauge stays straight up and down and everything under the hood is much cooler.
#10
Good stuff. I just saw this, or I would have responded. Yeah, that restricted exhaust is NOT GOOD. But you solving an overheating problem with a lower rated T-stat is a mistake. The engine was designed to run at a particular temperature. You are not doing yourself any favors by running a lower T-stat, and you are not solving the root of the problem.
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syracuse
Cooling, Heating, Ventilation & A/C
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03-23-2006 12:58 AM