OverHeating!
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OverHeating!
Alright, here we go, I've already done searches first and they weren't very helpful. So I decided to post my own topic...
2001 Ford Ranger Edge Extended Cab 4x4
4.0 SOHC | Automatic | 62K miles| Everything stock
1. I've already put in a new 190 Degree thermostat
2. Did a Radiator Flush
3. Added the "T" and connected the garden hose and ran with heater on for 10 minutes
4. Drained twice
5. Added 50/50 Coolant
I drive 22 miles one way to work in (Dallas, TX) city/highway.
With the A/C Max: Temp rising to 3/4 on city and highway.
With A/C: Temp at 1/2
No A/C: Temp below 1/2
And it is not even summer yet!
2001 Ford Ranger Edge Extended Cab 4x4
4.0 SOHC | Automatic | 62K miles| Everything stock
1. I've already put in a new 190 Degree thermostat
2. Did a Radiator Flush
3. Added the "T" and connected the garden hose and ran with heater on for 10 minutes
4. Drained twice
5. Added 50/50 Coolant
I drive 22 miles one way to work in (Dallas, TX) city/highway.
With the A/C Max: Temp rising to 3/4 on city and highway.
With A/C: Temp at 1/2
No A/C: Temp below 1/2
And it is not even summer yet!
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From: SW Va
Put a scan tool on the diagnostic port, that'll display the computers engine temperature sensor & see what it's reading. If it's normal, suspect the temp gauge sending unit.
If it's higher than normal, suspect a coolant circulation problem, like maybe a leaking radiator cap thats not holding pressure, or one of the wrong pressure range, entrapped air in the system, after you replaced the coolant & didn't get the cooling system bled good, a worn water pump impeller, from incorect coolant type, thats caused cavitation to erode the pumps impeller away & lower coolant circultion volume, a hose thats crimped or partially collapsed, or maybe this thermostat runs the engine a little warmer, or is faulty, just because it's new doesn't make it good, I've seen bad parts right out of the box!!!!.
Just some things to ponder & see if any seem fit your situation.
If it's higher than normal, suspect a coolant circulation problem, like maybe a leaking radiator cap thats not holding pressure, or one of the wrong pressure range, entrapped air in the system, after you replaced the coolant & didn't get the cooling system bled good, a worn water pump impeller, from incorect coolant type, thats caused cavitation to erode the pumps impeller away & lower coolant circultion volume, a hose thats crimped or partially collapsed, or maybe this thermostat runs the engine a little warmer, or is faulty, just because it's new doesn't make it good, I've seen bad parts right out of the box!!!!.
Just some things to ponder & see if any seem fit your situation.
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Radiator cap is a cheap and easy place to start…I noticed an anti-freeze smell in the garage when my 90 model was hot and discovered a stained line below the overflow tube just under the cap. I never overheated but with the new cap the gauge does indicate a bit lower. I think the spring or seal was getting tired after 167K miles. With all of the horror stories I hear about over heating a 2.9 I’ve been keeping a close eye on the cooling system. Also what pawpaw says about worn down impellers is true. I have a friend with a Mustang that was overheating and the impellers were seriously worn down.
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 735
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From: North Carolina
I fought a similar problem with my now gone f-150. It would run hot on the highway at high speed, but cooler at lower speeds. I replaced thermostat,fan clutch,cap, flush (3 times) and finally the water pump. It still ran hot.
It was the radiator, I bought a new unit ($160) and no more problem. Another guy on the F-150 4.2 forum had the same problem at the same time with the same solution, but he just had his "rodded out". Just something to check.
It was the radiator, I bought a new unit ($160) and no more problem. Another guy on the F-150 4.2 forum had the same problem at the same time with the same solution, but he just had his "rodded out". Just something to check.
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Joined: Feb 2006
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From: SE Michigan
Seems kind of odd to have cooling issues at such a low mileage. Check between the radiator and the air conditioning condenser that no piece of paper or other debris is blocking the air flow. Some times this stuff is hard to see.
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So what does all these problems have to do with Max A/C?
I really don't want to spend all kinds of money going through the "Process of elimination".
With low milage, I don't see how it could be the "Waterpump Impellers" (had original green-collant).
How it could be the radiator since I see water circulating (when I remove the cap)?
Cap? If I had a bad cap, wouldn't water be pouring out inter the reservoir container?
Debris between/around radiator? This truck hasn't been off-road yet...
Fan clutch? Well when I turn off the A/C I see the temp go down...
I really don't want to spend all kinds of money going through the "Process of elimination".
With low milage, I don't see how it could be the "Waterpump Impellers" (had original green-collant).
How it could be the radiator since I see water circulating (when I remove the cap)?
Cap? If I had a bad cap, wouldn't water be pouring out inter the reservoir container?
Debris between/around radiator? This truck hasn't been off-road yet...
Fan clutch? Well when I turn off the A/C I see the temp go down...
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 735
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From: North Carolina
A/C on means more load on your engine. My radiator was circulating water, just not enough when the extra load of 70-75mph on the intestate was added. It was so close, that it didn't happen until the ambient temp outside got above about 70-75deg. At slow (35-60) speeds, there was no problem. Sounds like your temp is higher with higher load, and your radiator can't cool it.
Try this, but it will be hot. Drive your truck with the air off on the highway, and get the temp up a little, but don't burn it up.Then, under the same conditions, turn on your heater full hot with full fan. If your temp drops significantly, it's a radiator problem. If not you got me.
Try this, but it will be hot. Drive your truck with the air off on the highway, and get the temp up a little, but don't burn it up.Then, under the same conditions, turn on your heater full hot with full fan. If your temp drops significantly, it's a radiator problem. If not you got me.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Morris Plains, NJ
Originally Posted by ojosdestranger
So what does all these problems have to do with Max A/C?
Being that the heater core is just another radiator, I'd guess that shutting off the coolant to the core dropped some of your heat dissapating capability and thus your temp went up.
-Jim
Last edited by PSKSAM2; May 22, 2006 at 01:03 PM.
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Originally Posted by PSKSAM2
I'd guess that shutting off the coolant to the core dropped some of your heat dissapating capability and thus your temp went up.
-Jim
-Jim
But the heater core doesn't receieve any "Air" from Fan or Outside. It's covered behind the firewall is it not?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Morris Plains, NJ
Originally Posted by ojosdestranger
Jim,
But the heater core doesn't receieve any "Air" from Fan or Outside. It's covered behind the firewall is it not?
But the heater core doesn't receieve any "Air" from Fan or Outside. It's covered behind the firewall is it not?
-Jim
Last edited by PSKSAM2; May 22, 2006 at 04:09 PM.
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I do have a check engine light but it is for the EGR Valve.
Could this be the problem?
I need to find a quick fix before the Holiday travel...
Also, would it be safe (for traveling & avoiding high temp) to remove the Thermostat or even get a lower temp Thermostat. I know the computer will be in "Cold mode" but has anybody tried this??
Thanks again!
Could this be the problem?
I need to find a quick fix before the Holiday travel...
Also, would it be safe (for traveling & avoiding high temp) to remove the Thermostat or even get a lower temp Thermostat. I know the computer will be in "Cold mode" but has anybody tried this??
Thanks again!
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Answred my own thread/post...
I guess I'll replace the EGR Valve and see if it overheats again!
Symptoms of an EGR Valve malfunction: Poor Idle
Varying engine speed with no change in throttle position
Overheating
Increased Oxides of Nitrogen NOx emissions
Failed vehicle emission test
I guess I'll replace the EGR Valve and see if it overheats again!
Symptoms of an EGR Valve malfunction: Poor Idle
Varying engine speed with no change in throttle position
Overheating
Increased Oxides of Nitrogen NOx emissions
Failed vehicle emission test
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Morris Plains, NJ
What code did you see? Not all "EGR" codes necessarily mean the EGR is bad. Sometimes it is the DPFE, which I believe is cheaper and easier to fix. Post your code and I'm sure someone who knows more will comment. Or do a search of the forum for that code.
-Jim
-Jim
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P0401 and P0402.
I bought the DPFE and did the Install routine (disconnect battery, wait, etc...) and a few hours later the "Check Engine" light came back on. Returned the DPFE.
Last night I went all over town, AutoZone, O Reilly's, Pep Boys, Napa and nobody had the EGR valve.
I ended up at the Stealership and ordered it.
When I install it, I will post results...
I bought the DPFE and did the Install routine (disconnect battery, wait, etc...) and a few hours later the "Check Engine" light came back on. Returned the DPFE.
Last night I went all over town, AutoZone, O Reilly's, Pep Boys, Napa and nobody had the EGR valve.
I ended up at the Stealership and ordered it.
When I install it, I will post results...
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Still overheating with MAX A/C after replacing EGR Valve.
Turned off the A/C and switched to Heat and temp dropped below half.
I guess it is the radiator. I will need to unassemble and clean out the lines. Sounds like fun...
Turned off the A/C and switched to Heat and temp dropped below half.
I guess it is the radiator. I will need to unassemble and clean out the lines. Sounds like fun...
Last edited by ojosdestranger; May 25, 2006 at 12:47 PM.