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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Help Please— Diff Gasket change

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Old Oct 21, 2018 | 11:05 PM
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Help Please— Diff Gasket change

I just bought a ‘66 F100. I’ve fixed just about all the problems except the leaking Diff. Its the main one that splits the 2 halves.

I have the gasket and removed the driveshaft. And taken off the 10 nuts that hold it together. I can get it to wiggle around but cannot seem to get it off. What am I doing wrong?

do I need to pull the axles out? Am I forgetting to take something off prior. Or do I just need to keep playing with it until I get the angle just right?

I have a Halloween event to take the truck too this coming weekend.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2018 | 11:16 PM
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Yes, you will need to pull the axles out. They go into gears in the diff. Put 1 bolt back in the diff housing so it doesn't fall out when you pull axles, then it should come right out for you.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2018 | 11:24 PM
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Is there anything I have to worry about when I pull the axles? Do I have to change any of the seals and such?

Sorry still new to working on my own cars. I’m an aircraft mechanic but cars/trucks are different
 
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Old Oct 22, 2018 | 08:24 AM
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Been a while since I pulled a 9 inch rear axle! You can remove and reinstall them without dealing with seals. There are a couple styles of wheel bearings in the 9 inch rear. You could have the taper style bearing, with a race that stays in the axle tube, or you could have a 1 piece bearing. If you have the tapered bearing and need to replace it, you might have to go to the 1 piece style. I'm not sure the availability anymore on the tapered type. I think it is an A-20 bearing for the tapered style. The tapered style is a lot easier to remove from the housing, just remove the 4 retaining plate nuts and with a little wiggling and maybe some assistance of a screwdriver or a chisel, the retainer plate will pop free and the axle will slide right out. If you have the 1 piece bearing, pulling the axles out will be a little more challenging. The bearing is pressed on the axle shaft, and pretty much driven into the tube, so removal requires a bit more effort. I have pulled them by removing the 4 retaining plate nuts, and hitting IN, yes IN with a large hammer. Don't usually have to go crazy on it but a nice solid hit IN will rebound the axle OUT. If you have access to a slide hammer that would probably work better, to pull from the hub. Last time I pulled any axles I had limited tools and no time to run around buying tools so I opted to try the hit and run option. Just note that when you hit the axle, what I was hitting is the center of the axle, not the hub flange, and when you hit the axle in the center, you will likely peen over the hub center that your drum and wheel center on. You will need a grinder or file to clean that area back up or you won't get the drum back on. Hopefully only 1 or two hits is all that is needed of you try my backyard redneck approach. A puller like a slide hammer is advised if you have access to tools! It is safer, and doesn't damage anything, but if you are in a jam, it works!
You should be able to leave your brake shoes together, if I remember right it is a little snug getting retainer plate thru the springs but you shouldn't have to tear brakes down all the way at least!
Good luck!
 
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Old Oct 22, 2018 | 08:25 AM
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If you take a look on youtube you will find a few good videos on this subject. At least you can see what you are getting yourself into! Its not bad!
 
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Old Oct 22, 2018 | 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by fuelsmoke1
Been a while since I pulled a 9 inch rear axle! You can remove and reinstall them without dealing with seals. There are a couple styles of wheel bearings in the 9 inch rear. You could have the taper style bearing, with a race that stays in the axle tube, or you could have a 1 piece bearing. If you have the tapered bearing and need to replace it, you might have to go to the 1 piece style. I'm not sure the availability anymore on the tapered type. I think it is an A-20 bearing for the tapered style. The tapered style is a lot easier to remove from the housing, just remove the 4 retaining plate nuts and with a little wiggling and maybe some assistance of a screwdriver or a chisel, the retainer plate will pop free and the axle will slide right out. If you have the 1 piece bearing, pulling the axles out will be a little more challenging. The bearing is pressed on the axle shaft, and pretty much driven into the tube, so removal requires a bit more effort. I have pulled them by removing the 4 retaining plate nuts, and hitting IN, yes IN with a large hammer. Don't usually have to go crazy on it but a nice solid hit IN will rebound the axle OUT. If you have access to a slide hammer that would probably work better, to pull from the hub. Last time I pulled any axles I had limited tools and no time to run around buying tools so I opted to try the hit and run option. Just note that when you hit the axle, what I was hitting is the center of the axle, not the hub flange, and when you hit the axle in the center, you will likely peen over the hub center that your drum and wheel center on. You will need a grinder or file to clean that area back up or you won't get the drum back on. Hopefully only 1 or two hits is all that is needed of you try my backyard redneck approach. A puller like a slide hammer is advised if you have access to tools! It is safer, and doesn't damage anything, but if you are in a jam, it works!
You should be able to leave your brake shoes together, if I remember right it is a little snug getting retainer plate thru the springs but you shouldn't have to tear brakes down all the way at least!
Good luck!

Thank you!!

ill let let you know how it goes. And if I find any other way to make pulling the axel off easier.
 
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Old Oct 22, 2018 | 12:00 PM
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To pull the axles. What I found to be easiest was to take the drum brake cover and put it on backwards and run the nut in 5-6 turns and use that as my slide hammer.
 
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Old Oct 22, 2018 | 12:58 PM
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