Ignition switch part # help
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Ignition switch part # help
hey guys,
i would really appreciate some help with an ignition switch part # for my 77 F250 2wdr. It seems as though there are 3 different types. I tried the search function, but did not have any luck.
VIN: F25SCY23454
thanks!
i would really appreciate some help with an ignition switch part # for my 77 F250 2wdr. It seems as though there are 3 different types. I tried the search function, but did not have any luck.
VIN: F25SCY23454
thanks!
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
D6TZ-11572-A .. Ignition Switch - 6 blade terminals (Motorcraft SW-1317) / Marked: D6TB-11572-AA / Obsolete
Applications: 1977 F100/350 & Econoline.
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Look at the plug and the back of the switch (take it off the back side of the switch and see if it is a 4, 6 or 9 blade connector? I bet a smaller 4 or 6 pin, that might help narrow it down.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14696846 scroll down a bit.
9 blade pic here. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14696849
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14696846 scroll down a bit.
9 blade pic here. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14696849
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2016
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From: Buffalo NY
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2016
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Look at the plug and the back of the switch (take it off the back side of the switch and see if it is a 4, 6 or 9 blade connector? I bet a smaller 4 or 6 pin, that might help narrow it down.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14696846 scroll down a bit.
9 blade pic here. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14696849
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14696846 scroll down a bit.
9 blade pic here. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14696849
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D6TZ-11572-A = NAPA ECH KS6643 https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHKS6643
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,140
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
If it just a sticking tumbler inside the switch, take it out (the key tumbler), clean it, put it back in and save you some $$. Having the actual key and a paper clip makes is way easier.
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sounds great. I’ll have a look before I order. I have narrowed down the problem to the switch, that would be great if it could just be cleaned up.
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Some times it is a a bad tumbler, or a bad switch. Plastic cracks, contact tabs loose, ark and spark. or just plains worn out. You do know how to get the ing switch out the dash right? See the 3 cuts in the ring around the ing sw on the outside of the dash/body? Small flat tip screw driver and just tap in one cut in a counter clockwise direction for a bit then loosen the rest way up by hand and remove.
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Freshman User
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Some times it is a a bad tumbler, or a bad switch. Plastic cracks, contact tabs loose, ark and spark. or just plains worn out. You do know how to get the ing switch out the dash right? See the 3 cuts in the ring around the ing sw on the outside of the dash/body? Small flat tip screw driver and just tap in one cut in a counter clockwise direction for a bit then loosen the rest way up by hand and remove.
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Update
Just thought I would update this in case it helps anyone in the future. I ended up replacing both:
- ignition switch
- lock cylinder.
When I got them apart, I initially thought it was the lock cylinder as it was sticking. After a thorough clean, it still wouldn’t turn. Therefore I ordered in a new lock cylinder, put it back on the original ignition switch, and put it in the truck. It would still stick in the on/run position. Therefore, I ordered in a new switch and all is good. Still fighting electrical issues elsewhere, but that’s what a project is all about!
thanks for the videos, I would have not figured out how to remove the lock cylinder without them.
- ignition switch
- lock cylinder.
When I got them apart, I initially thought it was the lock cylinder as it was sticking. After a thorough clean, it still wouldn’t turn. Therefore I ordered in a new lock cylinder, put it back on the original ignition switch, and put it in the truck. It would still stick in the on/run position. Therefore, I ordered in a new switch and all is good. Still fighting electrical issues elsewhere, but that’s what a project is all about!
thanks for the videos, I would have not figured out how to remove the lock cylinder without them.
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