TDC
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,389
Likes: 58
You also cannot rely on the timing marks unless you are certain that the damper is in good condition. The damping mass tends to slip over time. Since the marks are on that mass, it can no longer indicate correct timing once that happens. If the history of the damper is unknown, then it is time to replace it.
It's also possible to have the distributor 1 tooth off so that the intake prevents you from achieving the desired timing; the vacuum can hits the intake. In that case, pull it, rotate one tooth, drop back in and all should be well..
It's also possible to have the distributor 1 tooth off so that the intake prevents you from achieving the desired timing; the vacuum can hits the intake. In that case, pull it, rotate one tooth, drop back in and all should be well..
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 177
Likes: 0
From: okie in Oklahoma ! go fig
You also cannot rely on the timing marks unless you are certain that the damper is in good condition. The damping mass tends to slip over time. Since the marks are on that mass, it can no longer indicate correct timing once that happens. If the history of the damper is unknown, then it is time to replace it.
It's also possible to have the distributor 1 tooth off so that the intake prevents you from achieving the desired timing; the vacuum can hits the intake. In that case, pull it, rotate one tooth, drop back in and all should be well..
It's also possible to have the distributor 1 tooth off so that the intake prevents you from achieving the desired timing; the vacuum can hits the intake. In that case, pull it, rotate one tooth, drop back in and all should be well..
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 1,480
Likes: 6
From: Great White North
Sorry to ruin tomorrow for you but you need to start worrying about those missing timing marks if you desire good reliable, efficient and powerful daily driving!
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2017
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From: okie in Oklahoma ! go fig
haven't been able to find a pointer and no lines on damper. Now what
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,389
Likes: 58
Pointers are usually on eBay. Have your damper rebuilt or order a new one from Powerbond in Australia. The Powerbond part number is PB1199N. There are also some advertised to be new and made in Mexico on eBay. You don't want used. Even NOS may be no good because time takes it's toll and the rubber stuff between the mass and hub could be bad.
I agree, it's never going to be right until you get those things straight.
I agree, it's never going to be right until you get those things straight.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2017
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From: okie in Oklahoma ! go fig
Pointers are usually on eBay. Have your damper rebuilt or order a new one from Powerbond in Australia. The Powerbond part number is PB1199N. There are also some advertised to be new and made in Mexico on eBay. You don't want used. Even NOS may be no good because time takes it's toll and the rubber stuff between the mass and hub could be bad.
I agree, it's never going to be right until you get those things straight.
I agree, it's never going to be right until you get those things straight.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 1,480
Likes: 6
From: Great White North
Charlie answered that one for me. Maybe TA455HO or Numberdummy will chime in on a damper closer to home than Australia. No offense to the Aussies they are deep into speed and performance and know their stuff, they are just too far away.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,389
Likes: 58
I just googled the Powerbond part number. You can get it at Summit. Also branded as Dayco from other vendors. So plenty of options for it here in the US. New is the best way to go.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2017
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From: okie in Oklahoma ! go fig
Again, I thank you.. Thanks for the legwork.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2017
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From: okie in Oklahoma ! go fig
TDC
Bottom line should actually be on left side
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 1,480
Likes: 6
From: Great White North
You could maybe try aluminum tape and draw it on that. I will have to leave the alignment of the marks to someone else as I only have the specs for a 352 in my manual. I am glad you are making progress.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 4,474
Likes: 974
From: Tri Cities, TN
I'm no "Y" block expert. The last Ford I owned with a "Y" block was a 56 Crown Vic and that was in 1965. My motors manual is only for cars but it shows two different timing pointers for "Y" blocks. Some had the timing marks on the damper with the pointer as a zero reference. Some had the timing marks on the pointer and zero reference on the pulley. Is your engine original to that truck? Have you looked for any casting dates on the block?
If you just want to get a zero reference to work off of and get it running here is the easiest way.
Buy or make a piston stop.
Pull all the plugs to make it easy to turn.
Bring it to TDC #1 cyl.
Turn in opposite direction of normal rotation 1/2 turn and install the piston stop in #1 cyl.
Turn the engine in the direction of normal rotation until you touch the stop and put a mark on the damper at the pointer.
Now turn the engine in the other direction until you touch the stop and put a mark on the damper at the pointer.
Remove the piston stop.
Top dead center is exactly half way between those marks.
But if you have the correct damper and pointer and if that damper has really slipped, you are probably wasting your time because one little stumble or back fire and it's going to move again and all your effort will have been for nothing.
If you just want to get a zero reference to work off of and get it running here is the easiest way.
Buy or make a piston stop.
Pull all the plugs to make it easy to turn.
Bring it to TDC #1 cyl.
Turn in opposite direction of normal rotation 1/2 turn and install the piston stop in #1 cyl.
Turn the engine in the direction of normal rotation until you touch the stop and put a mark on the damper at the pointer.
Now turn the engine in the other direction until you touch the stop and put a mark on the damper at the pointer.
Remove the piston stop.
Top dead center is exactly half way between those marks.
But if you have the correct damper and pointer and if that damper has really slipped, you are probably wasting your time because one little stumble or back fire and it's going to move again and all your effort will have been for nothing.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Drove my "new" Y for quite a while with a slipped damper, it sure made setting the ignition timing a headscratcher because I didn't know that could happen.
Thing is, in theory at least a defective damper can cause the crankshaft to crack or even break. It can't do its job when the rubber dry rots or fails. Loss of timing marks is just a fringe benefit. There is a specific RPM range where a crankshaft reaches resonance and (more likely) what can happen is the heavy steel damper mass will unass itself and launch through the radiator or hood or golly knows where. May contribute to oil leaks too, it's just got to pound the hell out of bearings &c I'd think.
For now just set the initial timing to just short of maximum steady manifold vacuum on a gauge and it should run well till you can get a new damper installed. Ys like lots of advance over stock settings.
Thing is, in theory at least a defective damper can cause the crankshaft to crack or even break. It can't do its job when the rubber dry rots or fails. Loss of timing marks is just a fringe benefit. There is a specific RPM range where a crankshaft reaches resonance and (more likely) what can happen is the heavy steel damper mass will unass itself and launch through the radiator or hood or golly knows where. May contribute to oil leaks too, it's just got to pound the hell out of bearings &c I'd think.
For now just set the initial timing to just short of maximum steady manifold vacuum on a gauge and it should run well till you can get a new damper installed. Ys like lots of advance over stock settings.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2017
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From: okie in Oklahoma ! go fig
Thank you RangerMercman, aluminum tape:
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 177
Likes: 0
From: okie in Oklahoma ! go fig
Drove my "new" Y for quite a while with a slipped damper, it sure made setting the ignition timing a headscratcher because I didn't know that could happen.
Thing is, in theory at least a defective damper can cause the crankshaft to crack or even break. It can't do its job when the rubber dry rots or fails. Loss of timing marks is just a fringe benefit. There is a specific RPM range where a crankshaft reaches resonance and (more likely) what can happen is the heavy steel damper mass will unass itself and launch through the radiator or hood or golly knows where. May contribute to oil leaks too, it's just got to pound the hell out of bearings &c I'd think.
For now just set the initial timing to just short of maximum steady manifold vacuum on a gauge and it should run well till you can get a new damper installed. Ys like lots of advance over stock settings.
Thing is, in theory at least a defective damper can cause the crankshaft to crack or even break. It can't do its job when the rubber dry rots or fails. Loss of timing marks is just a fringe benefit. There is a specific RPM range where a crankshaft reaches resonance and (more likely) what can happen is the heavy steel damper mass will unass itself and launch through the radiator or hood or golly knows where. May contribute to oil leaks too, it's just got to pound the hell out of bearings &c I'd think.
For now just set the initial timing to just short of maximum steady manifold vacuum on a gauge and it should run well till you can get a new damper installed. Ys like lots of advance over stock settings.