Need some help here. Just upgraded my headlights to the 50w Kensun Bi Xenon HID. I also need to replace my FICM as the scan gauge shows it jumping from 47 down to 43 and everything in between. The question is. Do I or should I upgrade my alternator? Not sure how old it is but told it is the stock oem. Bats are three years old too. If show what do you recommend and where to go? Thanks

 

 

 

X2 on the 140 amp alternator.I would also suggest using a 54 MM pulley so it spins slightly faster. Jack(TooManyToys) has numerous posts/youtube videos and provides a wealth of information on the charging/grounding system and the improvements that should be done.

Rob

 

Thanks for the input. I already decided to go to Ed at FICMrepair. Now to decide if I want Atlas 40 or just standard tune.

 

Based on the limited information you have provided, it appears that your FICM requires a repair or rebuild. That said, under performing batteries and alternator will kill your FICM. Charge your batteries up and have them load tested or check with a hydrometer if that is possible. As to the alternator, I would have it tested also. I would recommend a 140A Bosch AL7606N Alternator as a replacement. Check all of your wiring especially the ground connections.

As to sources, ED has a great reputation on this site for FICM work. I used a local guy near me in Garland, TX and I drove over there one night and picked it up the next night. That worked for me and it has been installed since 2013. As to the alternator, even if the alternator tests OK, I would put the Bosch on my Christmas list. It is available from Amazon at $162 and it has a lifetime warranty. It has been on my truck since 2014 and it is virtually plug and play. As to the batteries, you can decide on that based on your test. I am presently using batteries from East Penn Corporation and sold by O'Reilly. Others on this site will have a myriad of other recommendations. Good luck with your truck..

 

Thanks for the info.

 

One more question. When I start truck. Volts are around 13 but FICM amps show 38 to 40. When driving after a minute or so they go up to 44 to 48 and stay above 45. Batts tested and are good. Is this an alternator issue of is FICM going out? Just had new injectors installed a few months ago.

 

 

So i'm pretty sure the alternator is the original that came in truck. Sounds like the alt needs changing and up grading to the 140v from the 110 that is most likely in there now? Hopefully that will take care of the issue? I'm sure the batts are good. They are almost three years old now. I tested them and they show in the "good" range. My batt volts on the scan guage show 13.3 to 13.8 on average. Of course they drop on a cold start to approximately 11 then go back up.

 

I see you had your FICM repaired by Ed. What tune did you go with? The standard or the Atlas 70? Im going to send mine into Ed but am on the fence as to what tune to go with.

 

Atlas 40 gets really good feedback from most guys. Glad I did it.

I went with a Remy 92529 alternator.
It's a 135V version and has the correct pulley on it already.

 

I got my Atlas 40 straight from PHP, the other truck has a FICMrepair rebuild with Atlast 40. My truck was healthy when I did my tune so I honestly didn't notice a ton of difference (betterthrottle tip-in response was what I picked up on) but on the second truck, coming off a dead FICM that would run 45V and occasionally drop to mid-30s, the repair + upgrade felt like driving a rocketship.

I have an EGT gauge, I can be stupid and get to a warning point around 1200*f. But if I'm not stupid it's perfectly fine at any weight so far.

I have big alternators, a DC Power 270XP and a LN230. No regrets, not since we had three dead 110As and a dead 140A. One of the 110s was a poor quality reman IMO, it only made it like a year or two. The 140A was a factory unit dead before 100k.

Remember that alternator output voltage varies with battery health/age, battery temp, and alt/engine temp. In 11 years I'm on my 4th set of batteries, so three years is not out of range for them to have issues, especially if you had alternator problems at any point. Pull them from the truck, charge them, strip the surface charge, THEN load test. Popping off a lead and doing a load test in-frame on a warm battery after driving home from work is not necessarily an accurate indication of battery health.

 

Ive been getting around 2 years on a set of batteries, but after a FICM repair I'm sensitive about the voltage. After that they're good for many more years in a stress-free environment- tractor, electric fence etc

 

I have a DB Electrical 200 amp alternator. Everyone says its garbage, but those people seem to neglect to add the required 4 gauge wire as per the instruction booklet. Mine's been on for a year now, no issues and puts out 148 amps at idle speed (as tested off the rig).

FYI: Keep in mind, anything more than an Atlas 40 is NOT compatible with aftermarket tuning.