292 engine woes
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292 engine woes
Hi,
I just bought a 62’ unibody in outstanding original shape!
Problem: The 292 in it smokes, and I dont like the to atmosphere crankcase ventilation. Searching for rebuilding options. I think a 240 or 300 6 cylinder would be nice(for the torque and dependability aspect), but it does have the V8 chrome emblem on the hood..
Looks like eitherengine done right will run about 4k$ or so. The radiator also seems to be leaking.
could I install a 300 into this truck with minimal modifications. It has a 3 speed in the floor with an overdrive.
Should I just stick with the 292. I’m not a hot rod guy. I put a 352 in my old 66’ 4x4 once, (from a 240-6) and I regretted it. What are your thoughts?
I just bought a 62’ unibody in outstanding original shape!
Problem: The 292 in it smokes, and I dont like the to atmosphere crankcase ventilation. Searching for rebuilding options. I think a 240 or 300 6 cylinder would be nice(for the torque and dependability aspect), but it does have the V8 chrome emblem on the hood..
Looks like eitherengine done right will run about 4k$ or so. The radiator also seems to be leaking.
could I install a 300 into this truck with minimal modifications. It has a 3 speed in the floor with an overdrive.
Should I just stick with the 292. I’m not a hot rod guy. I put a 352 in my old 66’ 4x4 once, (from a 240-6) and I regretted it. What are your thoughts?
Last edited by Michael Cottle; Oct 5, 2018 at 06:35 PM. Reason: Add photo
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2015
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From: tucson
What color smoke? I would do a compression check to help determine the condition of the motor. i had a '61 unibody just out of high school that started missing and running rough. I ended up replacing the timing gears and new rings and drove it for several more years. I was a starving student in the eighties and couldn't do much more to it.
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 472
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From: Nor Cal
Radiator
Not sure where you are. Here in Nor Cal I took mine(65 w/ 300) to Merv's Radiator in Petaluma when it was leaking and the top tank was bulging out a little. He(Clint) built me a great radiator using some 70s tanks(stronger due to deeper ribbing) he had. In the 1 1/2 years it's been done I've done a 2,500 mile trip through the Southwest(in April) towing a 1962 Shasta trailer and 2 550 mile trips, a year apart, both in 100+ heat towing the trailer and it never got past 1/4 on the temp gauge.
Not sure where you are. Here in Nor Cal I took mine(65 w/ 300) to Merv's Radiator in Petaluma when it was leaking and the top tank was bulging out a little. He(Clint) built me a great radiator using some 70s tanks(stronger due to deeper ribbing) he had. In the 1 1/2 years it's been done I've done a 2,500 mile trip through the Southwest(in April) towing a 1962 Shasta trailer and 2 550 mile trips, a year apart, both in 100+ heat towing the trailer and it never got past 1/4 on the temp gauge.
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,954
Likes: 64
Personally I like the Y blocks, and it is definitely easier to just have the original rebuilt rather than swapping in a 300. I'm guessing you wont have much of a difference in power or efficiency with either so if it were me I'd stick with the 292.
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More Turbo
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From: parma
Your year truck should have a pcv setup on it. Do you have a road tube coming off the valley cover? Or is it down low on the left side of the block? If it's down on the block then that engine isn't original. You were quoting something like $4k for a transplant. You could build a nice 292 for less than that, unless you go out and build a racing engine. I just built a 312 for my truck. I picked up a bad 312, had the crank turned to fit my 292 block, and had y block bored. I used an Erson cam which the powerband is rated from 1250rpm to 4250rpm. I'm using the 2 barrel intake and carb that were on the 292. Big difference in performance. I'm not drag racing, so I don't need a 4 barrel. The exhaust is the only thing that you'll need to address. Put headers or rams horns on it.
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It’s original. 62’ came with a down draft tube. The guy that had it threw on some chrome valve covers, but otherwise it’s an original down draft. If I rebuild it, I will convert it to pcv to the carburetor intake.
So far, I’ve found it hard to buy parts. Got a quote for just rings in the bottom for nearly $600. There’s no one around here to do much machine work any more that I know of. I did find a place that would ship you the whole long block for about 2$k. So, that’s my baseline of 4k$. If I bother with it, I will do it right, or I just won’t fool with it.
I love the truck. Not crazy about working on it always, so I would like the end result to be dependable above all else- and of course not look like a mosquito sprayer going down the road.
So far, I’ve found it hard to buy parts. Got a quote for just rings in the bottom for nearly $600. There’s no one around here to do much machine work any more that I know of. I did find a place that would ship you the whole long block for about 2$k. So, that’s my baseline of 4k$. If I bother with it, I will do it right, or I just won’t fool with it.
I love the truck. Not crazy about working on it always, so I would like the end result to be dependable above all else- and of course not look like a mosquito sprayer going down the road.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
OP is in AL
PCV introduced in 1961, but most states (excepting CA) didn't require it until 1965/66. CA required it on everything beginning in 1961.
PCV introduced in 1961, but most states (excepting CA) didn't require it until 1965/66. CA required it on everything beginning in 1961.
More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: parma
In 1962 they used the same blocks for cars and trucks. Only difference was the heads. Cars used different heads. My 60 has a 62 block in it. Bottom vent hole behind fuel pump is solid casting. Has a pcv in front of the carb with hose going around to the valley cover by the distributor. That was one thing I was asking about.
$2k for a shortblock? Research the rebuilder before buying. Last set of ford heads I had rebuilt was $500 and that was with adding hardened seats to the exhausts. $225 for a new cam, $163 for new lifters, and $100 for a gasket set. About $3k I did my 292 turned 312 for about $2300.
$2k for a shortblock? Research the rebuilder before buying. Last set of ford heads I had rebuilt was $500 and that was with adding hardened seats to the exhausts. $225 for a new cam, $163 for new lifters, and $100 for a gasket set. About $3k I did my 292 turned 312 for about $2300.
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https://www.sandjengines.com/
This is the site. 2k$ for a remfg long block. Sounds reasonable to me, and I wouldn’t have fool with the guts.
Anyone had experience with these folks?
This is the site. 2k$ for a remfg long block. Sounds reasonable to me, and I wouldn’t have fool with the guts.
Anyone had experience with these folks?
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Nor Cal
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2016
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From: Southwest, Missouri
Don't know much about him but there is this guy in the Calif. Central Valley.
Y-Block Guy
Y-Block Guy
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That makes me feel better. The site looks decent and professional, but you never know.
I think I’m going for the 292 rebuild. They seemed to be well spoken of for their spot in their “hey day”. It seems to be more original, but I did think a lot of those 300 inline sixes.
I hope it’s a worthwhile venture. I first drove these old style trucks, and still love ‘em.
I think I’m going for the 292 rebuild. They seemed to be well spoken of for their spot in their “hey day”. It seems to be more original, but I did think a lot of those 300 inline sixes.
I hope it’s a worthwhile venture. I first drove these old style trucks, and still love ‘em.