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Howdy all! After a while of hunting and a previous failed attempt I finally am the owner of a 2002 7.3L Limited EX. It's got 160k miles and is in really good shape, was a one owner vehicle and is rust free (luckily it spent most of its life out west).
What the previous owner did that I know of, was:
Banks six-gun
Banks trans controller
Banks exhaust
Banks intake
Rancho adjustable shocks (not sure much about these - or if there are after market springs on too)
Maybe bigger tires (has Goodyear Warngler AT 285/75/16) tires, which I *think* are bigger than stock? (I'm sure you all can confirm)
Primary uses will be hauling around my kids and for pulling my Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (4-door) to/from wheeling events. I'll also be putting a rack most likely and a roof top tent for some outdoor adventures.
I've got a bunch of things I want to do already, some of which I'll have to make sure I read up on here to make a well informed choice. Having a pretty well built up Jeep, I'm definitely looking to go slightly bigger with tires (probably 35") but want to make sure I don't hurt my towing abilities. Also, this thing drives too much like a big old buss, I need a little more firm/controlled ride!
Here's my list so far of what I want to do:
- Window tint for front 2 windows (doing this weekend)
- Replace front end with F-250 front end
- Replace mirrors with F-250
- Replace side step with F-250
- Replace suspension (with something more firm, and big enough to clear 35s and still tow like a champ)
- Replace other suspension/steering/etc. components as needed
- Replace wheels and tires (again 35s, and maybe 18" or 20" wheels)
Here's what I've done so far:
- Took off the fugly bug deflector it had
- Took off the mud flaps
Since I'm a noob to these tuners, and diesels in general I have a question. For the banks six-gun, it has 6 power levels. Is there any harm to running it on Level 6 all the time (most power)? Why would you run it ever on 0, or say 3 (in the middle)?
Also, what, if anything, would you guys suggest I have done service wise since this is a 160k truck? They did an oil change at the used car dealer I got it from (holy crap - 15 quarts!@$) but that's it. I'm thinking I should have the diff fluid changed and the transmission serviced. Anything else? I don't have the service history but this thing looks very well taken care of and is clean inside and out (including the engine). So I'm HOPING he did a good job keeping up with everything.
Lastly, here's a picture of my baby (Bertha). Definitely thrilled so far, even though my ex told me "awwww, it has Redskins colors!". DOH!
The very first thing I would do is set up a laptop computer with Forscan and pick up the recommended OBDII reader. That way, you can access any stored codes, and get Torque Pro for your phone/tablet to monitor a broad array of engine parameters. This will help flesh out a baseline health status of your vehicle.
As with any new-to-you vehicle, unless you have receipts from the previous owner and trust the work has actually been done and done properly, you'll want to revisit all the common maintenance items. Some will include:
oil change and filter
fuel filter
coolant flush and fill*
transmission flush and fill*
air cleaner
differential fluid change
transfer case fluid change
check ball joints, tie rod ends, steering box play, unit bearings, hubs, alignment
check and grease brake caliper pins
cooling system test - rad cap, thermostat, fan clutch
alternator/charging system test
lube all zerks (check to see if driveshaft(s) have zerks in the u-joints)
*these are items better done by you, as few shops do it "correctly", or perhaps more accurately, thoroughly. There are how-to's in the tech section, where you should spend ample time browsing.
In addition, there are items that are commonly in need of attention in these trucks. Some include:
leaky fuel bowl
leaky high-pressure oil pump (HPOP)
high pressure oil lines (leak, weep, fail... failure is catastrophic)
passenger's side fuel line on engine (chafes on holddown bracket... failure is catastrophic)
in-tank fuel pickup strainer (perform Hutch/Harpoon upgrades)
overdrive switch wiring chafing
door lock servos
Upgrades/replacements that will increase drivability, longevity, reliability, or simply add peace of mind:
6.0 transmission cooler - 7.3l coolers were horribly undersized
John Wood or BTS transmission valve body - improves shifts and thus reduces heat
replace serpentine belt/idler/tensioner (keep old for spares)
replace crankshaft position sensor (or just keep one in the glovebox in case your old one goes out)
Suspension is an entire trilogy, there's plenty of reading in the tech section and folks here have it as figured out as it's likely to get. Stock tires were 265/75/16, so yes, yours are slightly bigger than stock.
This is by no means an exhaustive list, but just what I have learned in the short time I've had my new-to-me 248k 7.3l 4x4. There are many very knowledgeable and experienced folks here who will be happy to help you out - just ask.
I’ll add The fuel pressure regulator on the fuel bowl as it should be rebuilt at 100k and few people do this until they start setting DTC codes, low fuel pressure can damage an injector which is a costly repair. Injectors are a 200-250k mile service life item.
DieselOrings.com is a great resource and you will want to start familiarizing yourself with the plethora of O rings on the 7.3 and get ahead of the failure curve. Turbo pedestal and EBPV are common leakers, CAC boots, IRP seals, injector Orings.....etc, lots to learn here.
do yourself a favor and Learn Forscan now before you find yourself with DTC and relying on a dealer to fix.
A set of Factory Service Manuals including the wiring and Emissions and Powertrain books are invaluable resources. eBay is a great place to watch and pick them up when a deal comes along ( got my whole set for about $200 )
Since you don’t have service records I would go ahead and replace the hydroboost line from the steering gear to hydroboost, The crappy nylon washer fails and renders brakes and steering non-op
Migh as well do the passanger side fuel line on the head, the bracket rubs a hole in the hardline it makes a mess not to mention when it fails you are parked until fixed.
both are inexpensive easy fixes at home but a PITA when it happens on the road.
Congratulations on your new ride and welcome to the club. You will find a wealth of information on this site and the knowledge of its members is invaluable. By the way, the molded Mud Flaps are the holy grail to many Ex owners. Good Luck
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