When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Whatsup guys, just bought a 06 F250 FX4 truck. It's got 232,000 miles and hoping it has many more. Diesel trucks are pretty new to me but thought I'd start a thread to document what's going on with the truck and get some feedback from you folks. Seems like there is a ton of good information on here for sure.
So what it needs to bring it back to where it should be:
Crucial stuff before driven regularly:
--Two injectors - I bought it knowing of the injector problem, seller had it tested and said two were bad. Didn't remember which one's or have a quote from the mechanic. Will need to look into getting some testing software. Probably a good investment with this truck anyways.
--Steering box - this thing is all over the road. Will be towing a trailer and have my family in the truck. Needs to be controllable and safe. Looked this up some, seems there is an updated box out there or go Redhead is the way to go. I'll have to shake it down to make sure front end is tight. I did see Moog parts under there so I'll grease them up good.
--AC - it's hot in SC and this is a must. Doesn't blow cold enough now. Hopefully just needs a recharge.
Also important but not dire:
--Oil change and filter
--Air filter
--Fuel filter - guess this will get done when I do injectors.
--Transmission fluid change with filter - maybe change to 6.4 pan.
--Coolant flush and filter (did they have stock coolant filters on these?)
--Power steering fluid will get changed with new box.
--Differential fluid
--Transfer case fluid
Basically make sure all the fluids are good.
--Check brakes - brake fluid flush
Other things/cosmetic:
--Cruise control is missing coast button
--There is an amp in the truck and absolutely no bass, will probably just remove the amp for now since I don't know how it was installed.
--Torn armrest
--Seller said an LED reverse light he put on it goes out sometime. Will have to redo connection.
--Truck says flossy edition... Not sure what that was about
--There is an oil leak, will address it easy enough.
--Would like to get a cap for it
As of right now I'm not even sure all that has been done to it. I know it has been studded and the seller gave me a list of work done two years ago but there are some other things I'm not sure how to tell if they have been done. I'll see if I can list what is on that work order he gave me and get some pictures up.
First off, welcome and congratulations on a nice looking truck. I'm feeling that Flossy EDITION was an owner or dealer touch. You should be getting some good recommendations shortly for engine monitoring. I have a Scangauge and Edge CTS2 of which only one can be plugged in at a time. Lot's of people using a couple of apps on phones or tablets that work real well.
Nice looking truck ..... never heard of a "Flossy Edition" though.
Sounds like a good list of things to do. I would get a scan tool ASAP. The ones for the cell phone are the cheapest. ForScan works well with the i-phone and read codes very well. You will need an ELM 327 adapter along with the App. You can pull the injector codes with it. I have the ForScan and like it, I also use the Torq App for my tablet. I like it also, but it doesn't read codes as well as the ForScan App. Remember - for the i-phone, get the WiFi ELM adapter (I like the BAFX brand), and for the Android get the bluetooth adapter. The Scangauge is helpful but a little "low tech" for the money It doesn't read codes very well at all. I have one and it is a good backup, but I bought it before buying my other monitoring devices.
Once you get the scan tool, get the engine fully warmed up and then take it for a highway drive. Let us know the oil and coolant temps. Hopefully the oil temp is no more than 15 degrees (10 is preferable IMO) above the coolant temp at a constant highway speed.
Definitely find out if the HPOP discharge STC fitting has been upgraded to the one-piece fitting. Also, find out if the dummy plugs and standpipes have also been upgraded (I would have to believe they have been - look for a 12mm hex head on the updated parts).
Is the EGR cooler deleted? If not, and if the EGR cooler is an OE cooler, then you need to either delete the EGR cooler or install one from BulletProofDiesel.
Keep an eye on your system voltages. The FICM doesn't like low input voltage. It isn't a cheap upgrade, but FICMRepair.com can upgrade your FICM and make it VERY reliable. Load test each battery separately and have the alternator tested. If your alternator is stock, it may be helpful to upgrade to something with AT LEAST 140A and preferably 190A.
Lastly - it is HIGHLY important to get a fuel pressure gauge. At WOT, the fuel pressure needs to always be at least 45 psig. I don't like to see below 50 psig.
Thanks for the feedback! If I can see injector codes on the iPhone app I'm going to do that. I thought I might have to get some of the expensive software (Autoenginuity or IDS).
It already has an Edge on the windshield though I don't know the slightest bit about it. Seller said it was there for fuel economy.
I looked into forscan and it seems pretty cool. Will the forscan lite app run an injector buzz test? Any reason to get a corded OBD2 connector and run it off a laptop instead?
I have heard that at least one version of ForScan will do a buzz test, but only on a laptop.
I have ForScan and like it, but I use something else for watching gauges when driving - don;t want to tie-up the phone particularly.
I would think a corded OBDII adapter and a laptop would be great.
If you are trying to identify the injectors that need replacing, a buzz test may not always be accurate. Buzz test makes sure the electrical components are working, but often there are mechanical things that are wrong.
use the Forscan to look for cylinder misfires too.
Be careful where you purchase injectors. It seems the ones from Ford are your best best, other companies have a higher failure rate and while they may have a warranty it’s not something you want to do on the side of the road in the rain.
From the pictures you’ve got some work ahead. K&N filter, improper oil filter both should be changed. Battery positive passenger and driver need some care. Probably negative too.
Along with everything Jack said I noticed: I can't really see but it looks like the heater core shut off valve is missing? Also I would think the location of the EGT is not what I would want but I guess it's not "wrong". Is that green coolant? If so I would looking into swapping it out asap. Looks like a nice Mishimoto radiator though! What are your ETC/EOT temps? Also I would get matching batteries but that's just me.
Yeah I think I do have my work cut out for me hearing some of the responses here. But I bought it knowing it needed some love and think I got a pretty good deal on it. I guess I'll know more once I get some guages up and can really see the health of the engine.
I've read up a little more and think I'm going to get a corded connector to hook up to a laptop for forscan and turn an old Android phone into a designated gauge cluster with torquepro (via Bluetooth connector). Think I'll have most bases covered that way.
I had to meet up with the seller to workout a title issue and I got to ask him some more questions. He said the truck had a tune on it from the guy before him (assuming SCT because of a sticker on the bumper) but said it was mainly economy. They had horses so think they were using the truck to tow. It has an Edge thing on it but only to monitor EGT. And yeah he told me the guy that put the sensor on there put it in the "easy" place. Should have been further down I guess.
Do think it has green coolant. Will get that straight as part of the fluid changes it will need.
Got my scanner and was able to take it out for a drive last night.
So first I had to jump it, not sure if a battery is bad, it just died from me fooling with it (I ran some if the tests the night before), or I left something on so I'll have to check that out. I did fine a receipt for a battery in the truck so one was replaced a year ago.
FICM seemed fine with 48 volts before startup and looked to maintain right around there while driving. Never below 45.
On idle the truck didn't feel right but seemed to drive down the road just fine. I knew it needed an injector (seller said 2) so I already knew this. Cylinder contribution code was there for #7.
I also saw a glow plug code for #8.
And two codes dealing with the turbo, one under pressure and another sensor related. Can't remember the specific right now but I'll report back.
Biggest concern I had was the delta between EOT and ECT was 28 F while just driving around town 45-50 mph. I know 15 is a sign of oil cooler issues so I'll have to take care of that and I guess I should consider the bulletproof oil cooler kit and just do it right the first time. That sure seems expensive though. Any alternatives to that relocation kit or is that really the way to go?
You don't need a bullet proof cooler. A OEM one is fine. Do the flush, cut open the coolant filter that's on there and see how much crap is in there. You might even get away with a back flush on the oil cooler. Change the oil filter cap and get a OEM filter in there. Go with Delo 5w40 and some Archoil and you might not need an injector for a while. Matinance is key on these trucks.
07-11-2018, 07:24 AM
