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These float springs are not in the rebuild kits, they are available but I'd still like to find a part #; this has an extra letter so is not correct? Designed to "resist and absorb fuel pump pressure pulsations" and also keep fuel level steady on rough trails or uneven terrain.
Well Ok, there it is! Looks to me there was actually a primary and secondary spring. They used the primary spring as far back as 1963 in the 2 bl 2100, a couple EBay sellers have them. $2.00 at Mikes. $37 for the one in the pic, and it's yours. The secondary spring used in the 4 barrels, is unobtanium, I think. May have been wound different/backwards.
I enjoy winding springs. I can't do every style of spring, like ones that change diameters in it's length (9636 in the drawing above is an example of this). But, I have done quite a number of springs over the years. Here's some of the parameters I use.
wire diameter - I use calipers to measure this
I.D. or O.D. of spring coils - either number is fine - the wire diameter x2 determines the other number - again measured with calipers
direction of wind - clockwise/counterclockwise - the one in your picture I'd call clockwise
compression or tension - the one in your picture is tension
number of winds - probably about 11 in that picture, but it's good to get an accurate count
style of "legs" - straight, hooked ends, where any bends occur.
Also, as a spring is wound it has to be done on a mandrel that is slightly smaller in diameter than the I.D. of the desired spring and an extra bit on the winds, because as the tension of winding the spring is relaxed it both unwinds some and gets larger in diameter some. The finer the wire diameter the less variation in "winding" versus "static" values.
Yeah I thought about winding one up, tho for $2 it's hard to justify spending the time. The only thing though, doesn't the wire need to be annealed or un-annealed or hardened or whatever? Heat it up cherry red and quench it in oil or something?
Here's a spring I've been trying to perfect. It's from the inside of the "Tic-Tac Clock" in my Trans Am. One end is missing the loop. It broke off at some point in its life and so the clock won't auto-rewind. The spring wire diameter is .006" or about as thick as the thickest human hair. Just about 100 windings in the spring. Compare to the dime just above it for scale. 1/16" drill bit fits inside. Toothpick is too large.
Exactly, you just use "Spring Wire" - Also referred to as "Music Wire". I buy the Precision Brand that Grainger sells. The whole endeavor is best reserved for springs that can't be sourced elsewhere. It takes a LOT of practice, too. But, a pound of spring wire can often make a good number of springs, too. It varies greatly. Anywhere from the 0.006" (4/0) diameter wire - 1 pound of it - is almost 2 miles long! And a minimum tensile strength of 419,000 PSI. It's really good stuff. That's a small box of it that fits in one hand. In the picture above it is the lowest in the picture, just below the toothpick.
0.029" (12 gauge) wire seems to be a common size that I use and it comes in a 1 pound box of 446 feet.
0.055" (24 gauge) wire is another common size I seem to use a lot. A 1 pound box is 124 feet.
0.085" (31 gauge) wire is down to just 52 feet in a one pound box.
Might still sound like a lot but once you start winding a spring it tends to use it quicker than one might imagine. A 1 inch diameter spring uses 3+ inches per turn or more than 1 foot for 4 turns.
This last size is getting large enough that if something goes wrong while winding it all heck can break loose, too. I use safety glasses and gloves when working with any of it and a leather shop coat when working with all but the tiny stuff.
You can get it in either a carbon steel alloy or stainless steel. Prices are not bad. The box of 0.055" in the alloy is $9.40.