This video is alittle hard to follow but the guy talks about how he had to alter the firewall and couple other things for his brake booster.

 

I don't know if my install for my Master Power booster will help at all. I tried numerous times last week to create a post with every step illustrated with images in hopes that it may be useful to someone. After several hours of trying I gave up. Every time that I tried to attach an image from one of my albums, it erased everything else in the post. I'm sure its ignorance on my part. I will try to post some images with each image being in a separate reply to your question. Hopefully that works. If the steps I took to perform my install do not help with your particular set up, I apologize in advance.

Chad

 

Shown here is the original single reservoir master cylinder mounting plate.

 

This just shows where the four mounting bolts for the master cylinder mounting plate pass through the firewall through the clutch and brake pedal bracketry.

 

I removed the master cylinder mounting bracket from the firewall and knocked out the two original studs that of course did not line up with any of the holes in the new booster mounting bracket. I then used the brake pedal push rod boot retaining plate as a pattern to mark the locations of the four new mounting studs.

 

Idrilled the four new mounting bolt holes and counter sunk them from the back side of the mounting plate. You can see the two blank holes where the original studs were located.

 

I installed the push rod boot and bolted on the new booster and bracket

 

Shown is the new booster bolted onto the original firewall mounting bracket.

 

I had to grind down one side of each mounting bolt flange slightly due to minor interference between the booster bracket and the bolt heads.

 

Mounting bracket bolted back through firewall with booster attached.

 

Master cylinder and proportioning valve installed.

 

Here is the part info for the proportioning valve etc in the above picture

-I used a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve P/N WIL-260-11179 which comes with the brake light switch installed. ($85.95 from Summit Racing)
-To mount the proportioning valve I used Wilwood mounting bracket PN WIL-250-12974. ($7.93 from Summit Racing) I did have to use a couple of washers to space out the bracket but other than that it fit with no issues.
-I also ordered 2 Wilwood 10 psi residual pressure valves P/N WIL-260-13784. ($19.78 each from Summit Racing). Master Power said that the residual pressure valves probably were not necessary since the master cylinder is mounted up on the firewall and not below the floor
but that it would definitely not hurt to install them.

Hopefully this info helps someone out there. This is my first 60's model truck and when I bought it, it was in pieces. Since I was not the one that disassembled it, I'm at somewhat of a disadvantage when it comes to re-assembly. I have learned a lot from the members on this site that are much more knowledgeable on these trucks than I am. Thanks to everyone out there for all the information.

 

wcs69rat, that is a sweet job of fabrication to adapt that booster to your stock plate. Nice work!
Doug