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Tips for installing engine into F250 4x4?

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Old Sep 29, 2018 | 12:40 AM
  #1  
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Tips for installing engine into F250 4x4?

I fought with trying to install my engine for about 3 hours tonight. I'm sure someone has some tips to help me out?

The truck is a 75 F250 4x4. I pulled the 360 and left the NP435 and bell housing installed.

I finished my 428, put it on the engine lift and tried slipping it back into the truck. I'm having a heck of a time getting the tranny to mate up with the motor. I removed the tranny mounting bolt and tried jacking it up to give me a better angle...no luck. I tried to remove the shifter ( squeeze, push down and twist), but I just couldn't get it to come out. So tranny is staying for now...

I have the rubber motor mounts installed on the block. Having to lift the motor up and over the motor mounts on the frame makes this difficult. I was about to remove the metal motor mounts but it appears the shock mount it also bolted to the frame with the same bolts.

There has to be an easier way to get this dang engine in! HELP!
 
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Old Sep 29, 2018 | 07:08 AM
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I've helped my uncle do that, we left the trans mount bolt in, but raised the front of the trans up against the floor boards, he's got an adjustable engine hanger, so the engine can be tilted just right, and he leaves the mounts off till after trans and engine are mated.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2018 | 01:17 PM
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I removed the tower motor mounts. Still can't get the thing to mate up with the tranny. Anyone wanna come install this thing for me before I go blind with rage?
 
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Old Sep 29, 2018 | 02:45 PM
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I'm assuming you installed the clutch and pressure plate. Did you use a clutch aligning tool before you bolted down the pressure plate? Also, just a thought, do you have the correct size pilot bushing that fits the trans shaft? You didn't say how close you got it before it wouldn't go together. Is it an angle problem. I surely know it can sometimes be very frustrating.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2018 | 02:51 PM
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Yes I used the clutch aligning tool before I bolted it down. I know I have the correct sized pilot bushing, and I made sure it slipped over the tranny shaft before I installed it.

I'm getting about 2-3" from the bellhousing.

My engine hoist hits the front cross member, keeping me about 3" from the bellhousing. When I lower the block, the angle won't match up, and I'm forced to try and push the block towards the tranny.

I have the leveler attached between the crane and the block so I can adjust the angle. I think if I could pull out the crane another 3" I'd make it...possibly. I even removed the oil pan to avoid any clearance issued on the front cross member.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2018 | 03:00 PM
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You really should put the bellhousing on the engine first, then put the t case in neutral and place the trans in 4th. Have someone rotate it while you stab it in.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2018 | 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ford390gashog
You really should put the bellhousing on the engine first, then put the t case in neutral and place the trans in 4th. Have someone rotate it while you stab it in.

Okay I will try that way. Thank you.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2018 | 03:47 PM
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I would also suggest airing down the front tires, it will drop the front of the truck and the angle of the trans to engine will be less. It will also be easier to push them together. Also get yourself 2 bolts and cut the heads off and use them as guides in the bellhousing to trans. You can guide it together.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2018 | 06:17 PM
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What about the throw out bearing and fork? Leave the bearing on the input shaft and connect the fork after its all mounted up?
 
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Old Sep 29, 2018 | 07:13 PM
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X2 on lowering front tire air. I remember once helping a friend we had the same problem. We stuck a set of those wheel roller casters under the rear wheels which did the trick and it also helped in moving the vehicle around a little better to get the motor and trans lined up. Maybe you know someone with a set.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2018 | 01:41 PM
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Sound like the input shaft isn't splining up with the clutch disc.
Put the trans in gear and bar the engine over to align the splines.
Alignment pins made from bolts help, also the engine and trans angle must be the same.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2018 | 02:43 PM
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Once the input shaft is in the clutch disc, how close will the bellhousing get to the transmission before I have to pull the two together?

 
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Old Oct 1, 2018 | 03:03 PM
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Once the clutch aligns they should close to within 1/2" for the pilot bearing alignment
A little more wiggling will close it up, you should NEVER draw them together with the bolts.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2018 | 03:43 PM
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So I've got the shaft into the clutch disc. I've cranked the engine by hand and can see the tranny shaft spinning as well. I have a 1" gap from the tranny to bellhousing. I've got 1 long bolt from the tranny to the bellhousing. I don't want to crank it down to pull them together per above recommendation

The block itself is resting on the motor mounts, but I can still adjust the angle with the hoist and leveler.

My instinct wants to match the angle of the tranny and engine and crank the 2 together with a few extra long bolts, then put the regulator bolts back in once it's together...but I'm afraid to force them. Thoughts?
 
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Old Oct 1, 2018 | 05:08 PM
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Has the trans slid back on it's mount, normally the engine won't settle into it's mount's until the trans is mated up.

I don't like drawing the engine and trans together and seldom will, but I have on occasion, make sure the engine and trans are level and square with each other having the same gap, top, bottom and sides.
Slowing draw them together using a 3/8 drive ratchet or wrench tightening to bolts near the dowel pins a turn or so each time switching from side to side.
I like to have the engine raised off the mounts a little in order to shake it after a couple of turns on the bolts to see if it will pop together.
If the bolts start getting tight before they are drawn together STOP, this normally means somethings not lined up and is binding.

Take your time, be careful and good luck.
 
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