y pipe help

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Sep 24, 2018 | 12:44 PM

coleprout

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y pipe help

so i have a 1996 ford f-150 4x4. roller block. i have a set of bbk short tube headers that i am putting on it soon. and i’m re-doing the exhaust. i am having a hard time finding an after market y pipe to use. i have seen people use the manga flow and the bassani but i would like some other opinions on some other possible options that maybe are less expensive.

wanting to replace y pipe because my cat leaks and i figured it would be easier to just buy a new y pipe rather than to cut the y pipe before the cat and merge the two pipes back into one.

in a perfect world i would just run a pipe pipe from each header going back but with my driveshaft being right there i don’t really have room.

am i better off to build a whole new y pipe? modify the one that i have? or buy a new one? idk. i’m open to every and all opinions. just looking to see if anyone is thinking of something that i’m not. thanks in advance

Sep 25, 2018 | 09:48 AM

frank5079

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From: Winchester, KY,USA

On the Car Quest website, a '95 F250 with a 351 uses a Y pipe if under 8500 GVWR and an H pipe if over 8500 GVWR. I used the H pipe for my 351 swap.

Sep 25, 2018 | 12:39 PM

coleprout

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Quote:

Originally Posted by frank5079

On the Car Quest website, a '95 F250 with a 351 uses a Y pipe if under 8500 GVWR and an H pipe if over 8500 GVWR. I used the H pipe for my 351 swap.

were you able to order the y pipe from a website or a carquest store near you?

Sep 25, 2018 | 01:20 PM

frank5079

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From: Winchester, KY,USA

Actually, the guy I bought the 351 sold me everything which included the engine, the engine perches, engine bay harness, and H pipe....

You can buy this very same H pipe through https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-40572

Sep 25, 2018 | 03:14 PM

rla2005

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From: Kentucky

The converter that fits that h-pipe can be expensive since it is not as common as the single inlet like the Bronco/F-150.

That Walker y-pipe will also need modified to move the front O2 sensors to the factory location. Then a third one will need to be added behind the converter. By the time you add the modifications to make it work, you might as well go with a 1996 specified y-pipe/converter setup.

Sep 25, 2018 | 06:13 PM

frank5079

Tuned

Joined: Jun 2015

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From: Winchester, KY,USA

Quote:

Originally Posted by rla2005

When I swapped my 300 for the 351 from the F250 of the same year, I retained the F250's engine harness and it has the one rear A/F sensor located in the balance tube of the H pipe. I welded the 300's catalytic converter onto the remains of the cut out portion of the cat that was still bolted to the H pipe and surprisingly, it works as a muffler as well.

As far as the specified cat con, they aren't that bad price-wise.....https://www.ebay.com/itm/Eastern-Cat...8AAOSw8V9bUB18

BTW I have no check engine light issues with my set up and thankfully KY has no emissions testing....

Sep 26, 2018 | 11:22 AM

rla2005

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Joined: Oct 2005

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From: Kentucky

Quote:

Originally Posted by frank5079

When I swapped my 300 for the 351 from the F250 of the same year, I retained the F250's engine harness and it has the one rear A/F sensor located in the balance tube of the H pipe.

Your truck uses only one O2 sensor that is used by the computer for air/fuel feedback to the computer. The OP has a 1996 F150 that is OBD-II and uses three O2 sensors. Left & right bank fuel/air feedback and a third O2 sensor to measure converter efficiency. That's why I pointed out using the suggested h-pipe would require some modifications to work in their application.

Quote:

Originally Posted by frank5079

I welded the 300's catalytic converter onto the remains of the cut out portion of the cat that was still bolted to the H pipe and surprisingly, it works as a muffler as well.

No surprise there. The factory converter(s) are well known as effective mufflers.

Quote:

Originally Posted by frank5079

As far as the specified cat con, they aren't that bad price-wise.....https://www.ebay.com/itm/Eastern-Cat...8AAOSw8V9bUB18

$236 USD is a chunk of change in my book. Better than $400+ for a California emission version. Many universal single inlet/out converters are in the ~$125 range, some even less. Would they work on OBD-II vehicle? Good question.

Quote:

Originally Posted by frank5079

BTW I have no check engine light issues with my set up and thankfully KY has no emissions testing....

Your truck uses only one O2 sensor, that you did install. There is no provision for measuring converter efficiency on your truck so you could have eliminated the converter completely and the computer would still be happy.