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  #61  
Old 10-21-2018, 05:26 PM
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Well they’re in. Fingers crossed. I don’t know if I can do this crap again without turning into a lunatic.

Its damn near imposssibe to seat them without getting retaining compounds on the side of the bores. They look good like they were done correct but only time will tell. I’m going to put some distilled water in and pressure check them. Do I just put some water in the rad and pressure check or is it not possible to get the water into those cavities around the cups with out the water pump doing it’s thing?
 
  #62  
Old 10-21-2018, 05:45 PM
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First, two reminders. Coolant pressure doesn't really go much above 15psi, and those cups normally have injectors bolted in place to keep them from popping out. I don't know this for certain, but I wouldn't be surprised if you could've randomly removed one cup just by pressurizing the radiator. But that kinda depends on how the coolant passage cuts through the head and where the coolant surface area on the outside of the cup falls.

Anyway, I didn't check mine, I just looked for the green ring of Loctite around the top of the cup as someone showed in a previous post on this thread. If you're set on pressure testing, I wouldn't worry about using water, just spray soapy water in the cup, and gently pressurize the rad and look for bubbles. Even though water is slightly smaller than air, effectively they're the same size for our needs. And make sure the soapy bubbles you spray in covers the injector hole at the bottom. If your Loctite seal at the top of the cup (the upper green ring you can see) is good, you can't see the lower green ring on the cup which keeps the coolant (and your pressurized air) from leaking down into the cylinder and then back up through that hole - assuming the valves are closed.
 
  #63  
Old 10-21-2018, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by SaintITC
First, two reminders. Coolant pressure doesn't really go much above 15psi, and those cups normally have injectors bolted in place to keep them from popping out. I don't know this for certain, but I wouldn't be surprised if you could've randomly removed one cup just by pressurizing the radiator. But that kinda depends on how the coolant passage cuts through the head and where the coolant surface area on the outside of the cup falls.

Anyway, I didn't check mine, I just looked for the green ring of Loctite around the top of the cup as someone showed in a previous post on this thread. If you're set on pressure testing, I wouldn't worry about using water, just spray soapy water in the cup, and gently pressurize the rad and look for bubbles. Even though water is slightly smaller than air, effectively they're the same size for our needs. And make sure the soapy bubbles you spray in covers the injector hole at the bottom. If your Loctite seal at the top of the cup (the upper green ring you can see) is good, you can't see the lower green ring on the cup which keeps the coolant (and your pressurized air) from leaking down into the cylinder and then back up through that hole - assuming the valves are closed.

I’m pretty confident they are good like 80% confident. And each cup has the nice ring of green at the top.
 
  #64  
Old 10-21-2018, 09:20 PM
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Use a hand pump radiator pressure tester, Easy to make with a bicycle pump and a spare radiator cap and tire valve stem, or buy a chicom one off eBay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/18pc-Auto-C....c100505.m3226
 
  #65  
Old 10-22-2018, 11:22 AM
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My only regret is that I put the retaining compound on exactly like the instructions and how ford recommends it instead of how some folks do it on the bottom of the cup too which makes sense but then there’s more chance of it getting in the cylinder so the other method makes sense too. Idk I did it how The instructions said to. I always second guess my work, even if it was immaculate and well prepared for, i’ll Still second guess. I’m the “did I lock the door kind of guy” even when I know I freakin locked it.
 
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Old 10-22-2018, 12:48 PM
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Pretty sure you left the iron on.
 
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Old 10-22-2018, 12:52 PM
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And the coffee pot...
 
  #68  
Old 10-22-2018, 03:54 PM
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But seriously, did I?
 
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Old 10-22-2018, 04:12 PM
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There’s an app for that
 
  #70  
Old 10-23-2018, 07:15 PM
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What I didn’t realize is how thin and tight the brass is against the bore. The layer of retaining compound between the wall and brass is extremely thin. I’ve come to the conclusion that the ring of green around the top is simply confirmation that it’s in that thinner than hair space.

I am pissed because I didn’t clean some excess off in #5 the way I thought I had gotten it. I’m also nervous as hell that some may have found it’s way in those fuel port things. Is it safe to use brake cleaner to clean the sides of the bore. It’s been since Sunday at 1:00pm.
 
  #71  
Old 11-02-2018, 11:48 PM
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Good to use Shell ELC? Or should I go green?
 
  #72  
Old 11-03-2018, 12:19 AM
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From my understanding only the E99 with stock injector cup adhesive is mandated to Green. I have an E99 and use NAPA green no issues at all.
 
  #73  
Old 11-03-2018, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Dude-Ford
What I didn’t realize is how thin and tight the brass is against the bore. The layer of retaining compound between the wall and brass is extremely thin. I’ve come to the conclusion that the ring of green around the top is simply confirmation that it’s in that thinner than hair space.

I am pissed because I didn’t clean some excess off in #5 the way I thought I had gotten it. I’m also nervous as hell that some may have found it’s way in those fuel port things. Is it safe to use brake cleaner to clean the sides of the bore. It’s been since Sunday at 1:00pm.
Well, it's probably too late to reply now. I wouldn't spray brake cleaner or any solvent into the cups, but spraying it on a clean rag (not dripping wet) then wiping it down is what I've done. Again, my solvent of choice has been acetone or ethanol, which dries residue free and then I use motor oil to lubricate the surfaces before installing the injectors. If you think that there's loctite or other dirt inside the fuel passages, you could remove the fuel fitting on the head (there's a fitting at both ends of each head, so for the pass side you you don't have to reach all the way to the back under the downpipe) and used compressed air to blow through the head.
 
  #74  
Old 11-03-2018, 11:43 AM
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How about this now. The drive side up-pipe is slightly offset like the holes were tapped a little off. It’s sealed up but doesn’t look a perty as the passenger side. Anybody else experience this on the driver side. It’s like 2mm off of flush. Must be a manufacturing thing idk??
 
  #75  
Old 11-12-2018, 01:32 PM
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It's done. Thanks everybody. Just need to adjust the actuator on the 38r and replace my block heater element but i'm done with the painful stuff!!! woohoo!!!
 


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