Fuel in Coolant
#46
10-12-2018, 10:34 AM
i am looking at doing injectors in the next year and also in CA so smog is a concern.
what injectors did you use ? And did you eventually get them to pass ?
For tunes I will be use the tunes that swamps offers with purchase but am learning the Minatour tuning software and will eventually write my own.
#47
10-12-2018, 10:36 AM
Lead Driver
I plan on 160/30 for that exact reason, CA snap test. ( also people in NorCal are fed up with people rolling coal and will take a pic of you doing so and send it into CARB )
https://www.arb.ca.gov/enf/complaints/smoke.htm
from my understanding the larger 80% nozzle doesn’t atomize the fuel well enough during low boost which is what fails the opacity testand causes smoke leaving a stop sign. Sounds like you were able to dial down the MFD enough to counter act this at least for smog testing but how does it do leaving a stop sign on your daily drive tune ?
https://www.arb.ca.gov/enf/complaints/smoke.htm
from my understanding the larger 80% nozzle doesn’t atomize the fuel well enough during low boost which is what fails the opacity testand causes smoke leaving a stop sign. Sounds like you were able to dial down the MFD enough to counter act this at least for smog testing but how does it do leaving a stop sign on your daily drive tune ?
#48
10-12-2018, 11:34 AM
I plan on 160/30 for that exact reason, CA snap test. ( also people in NorCal are fed up with people rolling coal and will take a pic of you doing so and send it into CARB )
https://www.arb.ca.gov/enf/complaints/smoke.htm
from my understanding the larger 80% nozzle doesn’t atomize the fuel well enough during low boost which is what fails the opacity testand causes smoke leaving a stop sign. Sounds like you were able to dial down the MFD enough to counter act this at least for smog testing but how does it do leaving a stop sign on your daily drive tune ?
https://www.arb.ca.gov/enf/complaints/smoke.htm
from my understanding the larger 80% nozzle doesn’t atomize the fuel well enough during low boost which is what fails the opacity testand causes smoke leaving a stop sign. Sounds like you were able to dial down the MFD enough to counter act this at least for smog testing but how does it do leaving a stop sign on your daily drive tune ?
Won’t running a smaller exhaust housing on the turbo help clean it up at low boost?
#49
10-12-2018, 12:33 PM
Lead Driver
so spooling faster will built boost quicker which would help when accelerating from a stop but isn’t going to help with a CA smog snap test since they do it with no load on the engine.
on that subject, anybody know what the banks quick turbo A/R is ?
https://www.bankspowerproducts.com/B...it-p/24457.htm
#50
10-12-2018, 03:03 PM
Lead Driver
I plan on 160/30 for that exact reason, CA snap test. ( also people in NorCal are fed up with people rolling coal and will take a pic of you doing so and send it into CARB )
https://www.arb.ca.gov/enf/complaints/smoke.htm
from my understanding the larger 80% nozzle doesn’t atomize the fuel well enough during low boost which is what fails the opacity testand causes smoke leaving a stop sign. Sounds like you were able to dial down the MFD enough to counter act this at least for smog testing but how does it do leaving a stop sign on your daily drive tune ?
https://www.arb.ca.gov/enf/complaints/smoke.htm
from my understanding the larger 80% nozzle doesn’t atomize the fuel well enough during low boost which is what fails the opacity testand causes smoke leaving a stop sign. Sounds like you were able to dial down the MFD enough to counter act this at least for smog testing but how does it do leaving a stop sign on your daily drive tune ?
I don't run the All Out tune but the others are all fine under normal conditions. I don't have any smoke issues unless I lay into it then I get a haze until the turbo lights off and boost starts to climb.
IMO the tech for my smog test was a little excessive. It sounded like he floored it to over 3K RPM for the snaps. If he would have just been aggressive and not gone over 3K I don't think it would have been a problem.
#51
10-12-2018, 05:16 PM
Lead Driver
I learned about it on a community Facebook page my wife is on. Since the VW scandal people ( suburban women ? ) are on a mission to ride the streets from *********s rolling coal around town.
I dont know the backstory but I do know the 3 main offenders in our little town are gone or at least I don’t see their trucks around like I used to.
#52
10-12-2018, 05:33 PM
I’m glad I live in Oklahoma, but at the same time I do my due diligence to not “roll coal,” but if I accelerate hard for whatever reason so be it. When I attempted to live in LA (high cost of living) in 2012 I bought a 95 Jeep Wrangler with the 4.0L out there. Best year because it has a galvanized frame. Anyway, I will never forget the guy doing the emissions test flooring the **** out of the thing, I honestly thought it was going to blow up.
#53
10-16-2018, 08:39 PM
I’ve got a question regarding the order of operations.
So when I slap the new injectors in what should I do about the absence coolant I mean obviously fill it with water, but what’s the first move? I was thinking I’d just remove the thermostat and put a flush T on and flush it with just faucet water pressure until it runs clear out the degas bottle and then start it from there and get on with the flushing processes. Thoughts?
So when I slap the new injectors in what should I do about the absence coolant I mean obviously fill it with water, but what’s the first move? I was thinking I’d just remove the thermostat and put a flush T on and flush it with just faucet water pressure until it runs clear out the degas bottle and then start it from there and get on with the flushing processes. Thoughts?
#54
10-16-2018, 09:18 PM
No need for flush kit. Remove tstat then hand tight the 3 bolts. Fill resivoir with distilled. Have another 10-15 qts of distilled to keep filling the resivoir. Remove top rad hosea t radiator and plumb in a 1in piece of 3ft pvc pipe to redirect water to wherever. Once all clean, crawl under truck and remove the coolant plugs and let motor drain...Install plugs, new tstat and connect hose to rad. Finally, fill with beverage of choice
#55
10-17-2018, 08:25 AM
Lead Driver
I’ve got a question regarding the order of operations.
So when I slap the new injectors in what should I do about the absence coolant I mean obviously fill it with water, but what’s the first move? I was thinking I’d just remove the thermostat and put a flush T on and flush it with just faucet water pressure until it runs clear out the degas bottle and then start it from there and get on with the flushing processes. Thoughts?
So when I slap the new injectors in what should I do about the absence coolant I mean obviously fill it with water, but what’s the first move? I was thinking I’d just remove the thermostat and put a flush T on and flush it with just faucet water pressure until it runs clear out the degas bottle and then start it from there and get on with the flushing processes. Thoughts?
- Drain cooling system
- Did injector/cup work
- Filled with distilled water and, similar to timmyboy76, "snugged" down t-stat housing bit I tightened mine slightly more than finger tight ( with no t-stat installed)
- Started the truck and let it idle for 5 minutes or so to revel in my success and check for any obvious issues (I did not cry...I had some dirt in my eye)
- Drained water, installed t-stat, and filled the cooling system with my "final charge"
- Changed the oil
#56
10-17-2018, 08:53 AM
Right or wrong here is what I did:
- Drain cooling system
- Did injector/cup work
- Filled with distilled water and, similar to timmyboy76, "snugged" down t-stat housing bit I tightened mine slightly more than finger tight ( with no t-stat installed)
- Started the truck and let it idle for 5 minutes or so to revel in my success and check for any obvious issues (I did not cry...I had some dirt in my eye)
- Drained water, installed t-stat, and filled the cooling system with my "final charge"
- Changed the oil
- Drain cooling system
- Did injector/cup work
- Filled with distilled water and, similar to timmyboy76, "snugged" down t-stat housing bit I tightened mine slightly more than finger tight ( with no t-stat installed)
- Started the truck and let it idle for 5 minutes or so to revel in my success and check for any obvious issues (I did not cry...I had some dirt in my eye)
- Drained water, installed t-stat, and filled the cooling system with my "final charge"
- Changed the oil
#57
10-17-2018, 09:01 AM
Lead Driver
When it started on the first try I did give out a non-family-friendly shout of joy (after I turned the camera off) as I was convinced that it wasn't going to start and my wife was going to make me sleep in the back of the cab until it did.
#58
10-20-2018, 07:55 PM
Well I’m satisfied with how clean they are. It only took a month. It kept freakin raining here but I’m finally installing the cups tomorrow. Any advice on using the install tool so I can get this right? Did you guys lube the O-ring on the install tool? I had to orde some of the Loctite primer because it’s dipping to 40 degrees at night here, figured that would impact the curing time of the retaining compound? Tomorrow morning until noon will also be below 60 so I don’t really think I have a choice not to use the primer.
#59
10-20-2018, 09:36 PM
Good call on the getting the Loctite primer, although it's mostly just acetone. And it's not just for low temps, but also to thoroughly clean the surfaces. Use it, or just get more acetone, and clean both surfaces that will see the Loctite; the cup and the head, and let both dry. I would still go for the full 24 hour cure time before adding coolant. You should oil the o-ring on the tool, so it doesn't pull up on the cup as you remove it. Installing the injectors right afterward can also be done since they will also seat the cups and hold them in place as the Loctite cures, but that's certainly not required if you're not prepared to do so.
#60
10-20-2018, 09:46 PM
Good call on the getting the Loctite primer, although it's mostly just acetone. And it's not just for low temps, but also to thoroughly clean the surfaces. Use it, or just get more acetone, and clean both surfaces that will see the Loctite; the cup and the head, and let both dry. I would still go for the full 24 hour cure time before adding coolant. You should oil the o-ring on the tool, so it doesn't pull up on the cup as you remove it. Installing the injectors right afterward can also be done since they will also seat the cups and hold them in place as the Loctite cures, but that's certainly not required if you're not prepared to do so.