When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
As I mentioned on another thread, I recently upgraded from an F150 to a 2018 F250, 6.7L, 4x4, Crew Cab, short bed. I have a Cougar 30RLI trailer and use a Curt weight distribution hitch with sway control system. I have seen a few reviews on line about the Andersen Weight Distribution Hitch. I have not heard from anyone who actually uses the system. I'm particularly interested in those who came from a torsion bar style system like the one I have now and would like to see if they think it is worth the upgrade.
Put it this way I went back to my Fastway E2 from the Andersen, It is a good Anti sway, not a very good WD hitch, and they have an Issue with the cone around the ball it gets very noisy after a bit of use, and tends to walk out, They have had many different versions of the cone. They have gone from red cone, to white cone, to grey. And I didn't like the engineering of it so much as the chain that are used for the WD and anti sway actually pull the tv and tt towards each other at all time which puts a lot of pressure continually on the hitch latch, which to me is not the best idea. Not my picture, another member of our camping club. Also the owner is in a bit of trouble for defacing Corona Arch in Utah.
Put it this way I went back to my Fastway E2 from the Andersen, It is a good Anti sway, not a very good WD hitch, and they have an Issue with the cone around the ball it gets very noisy after a bit of use, and tends to walk out, They have had many different versions of the cone. They have gone from red cone, to white cone, to grey. And I didn't like the engineering of it so much as the chain that are used for the WD and anti sway actually pull the tv and tt towards each other at all time which puts a lot of pressure continually on the hitch latch, which to me is not the best idea. Not my picture, another member of our camping club. Also the owner is in a bit of trouble for defacing Corona Arch in Utah.
You got me thinking about the physics of the hitch. The chains pull the bottom of the shank which should pull the ball into the front of the coupler, not the latch. When the chains are tightened, the ball rotates forward, not backward. However, it's been a long day and maybe I'm not thinking about this correctly.
Looking at my ball, I can get a picture later, you can see the wear on the ball from the latch and that kind of concerned me. I wasn't thinking about rotation just a straight pull by the chains. But if you want to have WD it is not a good WD hitch. Actually on the pic above you can see where the latch in wearing on the ball. Good thing it hasn't cost me anything to go back to the E2 it was sitting in my back yard, just had to install and adjust. But and the BIG BUT it is HEAVY. The other concern some of our RV club members have brought up is that the chains to give as much as the spring bars and could over stress the frame on an ultralight TT like mine.
I am a huge fan of the Andersen WDH system. I switched from the heavy torsion bar system 2 years, and about 11,000 towing miles ago. I have no issues with anything I've read here. Original "red" sleeve, silent operation, no concerns when backing. Properly adjusted, I transfer 200# of my 1,000# tongue weight to the front axles, verified at the CAT scales. The key to transferring weight forward is to really tighten the chains. I could transfer even more weight forward, but I choose not to for my F250. I really feel secure with the simplicity and great engineering of the Andersen system. They got it right. Anti sway is also very effective. As I age, I also appreciate the relatively light weight of the hitch assembly. I carry an extendable 1/2" ratchet to make the chain tightening easy. Also, chains obviously have no "spring effect" as bars are prone to do, so there's absolutely zero porpoising on uneven highways. Very stable.
Your Lucky so far, both mine and my friends are extremely noisy at the cone, and both of ours has had the cone work out. Of course with the SD WD isn't as important, I couldn't get enough weight to transfer back to the front axle when I had my f150, Neither can my friend. He is about 250 lbs light on his front axle.
In my conversation with Andersen they acknowledge that their WDH doesn't transfer as much as a spring bar WDH. In my case, enough weight was transferred to settle the ride so it is comfortable.
Your Lucky so far, both mine and my friends are extremely noisy at the cone, and both of ours has had the cone work out. Of course with the SD WD isn't as important, I couldn't get enough weight to transfer back to the front axle when I had my f150, Neither can my friend. He is about 250 lbs light on his front axle.
I'm not a bumper pull hauler but isn't it awkward to have your front end up so high, maybe lack or steering control. Is your truck rated for the load, doesn't look like it with the front end up so high. Don't want to pick on your setup, just wondering.
I changed from the Equalizer 14k WD hitch with bars to the Andersen WD Hitch. My ride instantaneously improved, sway decreased, and I ride level with less pressure in the airbags as well.
When the chains are adjusted, it does pull the ball forward towards the front of the coupler - if you're seeing issues with the latch, I would check the Andersen website against the model of your coupler. There are known issues with certain models of couplers and Andersen takes the stance you should NOT use their product until a solve is found between them and Atwood.
A few things I like: 3" Hitch Shank - no more sleeves and mess. Easy on/off - just a pin to pull. Easy adjustment (rare need once it's installed and set). SILENT - Man, this things has made NO noise; and compared to my constant cracking and popping of the Equalizer I'm sure my RV Park Neighbors are as appreciative of my switch as I am.
My only down side (that I have found) is that install is not the breeze it is eluded to on their website/tutorials. And, basically if your triangle plate is not straight just back at the angle needed. Tightening one chain and pulling away... doesn't work.
I've gotten to the point where if the triangle plate isn't too far off straight I don't worry about it. I still need to adjust the brackets on the trailer's frame back an inch.